Apple/Pear Trees

[Outdoor Family]

Where is a good place to order apple and pear trees for the south central area??? Anyone ever order trees from the National Arbor Day foundation??? Would like to get some ordered for a spring planting...
Thanks

[dbltree]

Fruit Tree sources

Apples and pears are just a lot of fun and you can plant a couple every year without breaking the bank and eventually end up with a great attraction! Here's a list of fruit tree sources

Adams County Nursery (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_about.php)

Century Farm Orchards (http://www.centuryfarmorchards.com/)

Cummins Nursery (http://www.cumminsnursery.com/)

Burnt Ridge Nursery (http://www.burntridgenursery.com/products.asp?dept=10)

St. Lawrence Nursery (http://www.sln.potsdam.ny.us/)

MILLER NURSERIES (http://www.millernurseries.com/)

Stark Bro's Nurseries and Orchards Co. (http://www.starkbros.com/access?action=forward&uri=%2Findex.jsp)

Raintree Nursery (http://www.raintreenursery.com/catalog/producttype.cfm?producttype=Pears-Asian)

Grandpa's Orchards (http://www.grandpasorchard.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=trees.main&alphaKey=ALL)

Burgess Seed and Plant (http://www.eburgess.com/index.asp)

Red Fern Farm (http://www.redfernfarm.com/index.htm)

Morse Nursery (http://www.morsenursery.com/)

Edward Fort Nurseries (http://www.edwardfortnurseries.com/)

The Wildlife Group (http://wildlifegroup.com/)

Vintage Virginia Apples (http://www.vintagevirginiaapples.com/Shop_Show_cat.php?catid=Trees)

Boyer Nurseries & Orchards, Inc (http://www.boyernurseries.com/index.htm)

Trees of Antiquity (http://www.treesofantiquity.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=115)

Gurney's Nursery (http://gurneys.com/category.asp?splid=SPLID02&c=28&bhcd2=1237408554)

Arbor Day Foundation (http://www.arborday.org/Shopping/Trees/Treelist.cfm?Categories=3)

NAFEX Nursery/Supply Source Lists (http://www.nafex.org/supply_source.htm)

Tree Selection

Which tree is right for you? Standard, semi-dwarf or dwarf?

Most landowners planting for wildlife prefer semi-dwarf but here are a few links to help you deicde what is best for you.

Guide for Home Orchards (http://www.hort.cornell.edu/gardening/fruit/homefruit/3treefruit.pdf)

Dwarf versus Semi-Dwarf versus Standard Trees (http://www.thenewfruitgrower.com/dwarf_or_semi-dwarf.htm)

WHICH APPLES SHOULD I CHOOSE? (http://www.sln.potsdam.ny.us/pgapples.html)

All about Apples (http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C740.htm)

It's all about the rootstocks:

Standard Trees versus Dwarf Trees
The two major factors influencing size are rootstock and type of strain used (spur or non-spur). Other factors that will have an influence on ultimate tree size include general care, variety, soil type, earliness of fruiting, location within the state and timing and severity of pruning.

Rootstock influences tree size. There are three general categories of tree size: standard, semi-dwarf and dwarf. Standard trees are propagated on seedling rootstock and produce large trees that may get to be 15 to 20 feet tall. Semi-dwarf trees are trees propagated on one of several clonal rootstocks (vegetatively propagated) that produce trees that will be about 60 to 70 percent the size of standard trees if grown under similar circumstances. The most common semi-dwarf rootstocks used for apples in Georgia are MM 106, MM 111, and M 7. Trees on M 7 will produce the smallest trees in the semi-dwarf category while MM 106 will produce trees nearly as large as trees on seedling rootstocks.

True dwarf trees will be about 30 to 40 percent as large as standard trees and require support by either a trellis or a post. The two most common dwarfing root-stocks are M 9 and M 26. Trees grown on M 9 are the smaller of the two.

Use dwarf and semi-dwarf trees if space is greatly limited. M 9, M 7, and MM 111 are better adapted to Zones 1, 2, and 3, while MM 106 has shown promise in the lower half of Zone 3 plus Zone 4. In Zone 5, only standard trees (seedling rootstock) are recommended due to poor performance of semi-dwarf and dwarf rootstocks. See Table 2 for tree spacing recommendations.



Dwarf rootstocks are not as strong as semi or standard but you can fence them and stake them of course.

For best results order trees on M7 or M111 rootstock, they produce a strong, sturdy, freestanding tree that is winter hardy and tolerant of a variety of soil conditions. All apple trees (fruit trees) are grafted to various rootstocks and we need to match the rootstock to the soil/growing conditions in our areas and soil types.

M111 rootstock is a slightly larger rootstock that works well in the heavy clay soils in my area and works much better then dwarf rootstock.

Here's some basic rootstock info from Adams County Nursery (http://www.acnursery.com/rootstock.php)

Apple Rootstocks

The use of clonal rootstocks for apples began in the mid 1900's. Selections from the East Malling Research Station, Kent, England were introduced to commercial fruit production as a means to control tree vigor, promote early fruiting, and improve tree efficiency. The widespread acceptance of this technology led the way for rootstock breeding in the United States, Poland, and the former Soviet Union. The M and EMLA rootstocks from East Malling, the Bud rootstocks from the former Soviet Union, and more recently, the G rootstocks from Geneva, New York have become the most commonly used rootstocks for apple production in the United States and throughout the world.

M-9 (337)

A dwarfing rootstock, ideal for high density plantings. M9-337 is a virus certified clone of the original Malling 9 and has been used successfully throughout the world. Trees on M9-337 are very precocious and tolerant to a wide range of soil and climate conditions. Due to the poor anchorage of this rootstock, tree support is essential in establishing trees.

M9-NIC 29

A selection of Malling 9 developed in Belgium. M9-Nic29 is recommended for use with cultivars that are less vigorous such as Empire or Honeycrisp. M9-Nic29 has slightly more vigor than other clones of Malling 9 yet is similar in other horticultural characteristics.

BUD 9

A dwarfing rootstock producing a tree similar in size to M-9. Bud 9 is very winter hardy, resistant to collar rot, and somewhat less susceptible to fire blight than M-9. Tree support is recommended when using this rootstock.

GENEVA 16 (G.16)

A dwarfing rootstock developed from a 1981 cross of Ottawa 3 and Malus Floribunda. Geneva 16 produces a tree similar in size to trees on M-9 clones. Its desirable characteristics include high yield efficiency, resistance to burrknots and root suckers. Geneva 16 shows strong resistance to fire blight and some tolerance to apple replant disease.

EMLA 26

Ideal for high density plantings, EMLA 26 produces a dwarf tree between M-9 and EMLA 7. Free standing on strong soils, EMLA 26 usually requires staking on less fertile sites. EMLA 26 does not tolerate wet feet and is susceptible to fire blight and woolly aphids.

M-9 / EMLA 111 INTERSTEM

The interstem M-9 / EMLA 111 produces intermediate trees similar to EMLA 26. Advantages include a well anchored, collar rot resistant EMLA 111 tree, with the dwarfing and precocity of the M-9 interstem.

GENEVA 30 (G.30)

Developed from a 1974 cross of Robusta 5 and Malling 9, this rootstock produces a tree slightly less vigorous than trees on EMLA 7. Geneva 30 has extremely high yield efficiency, and when allowed to carry large crops in the early years, may be similar in size to trees on EMLA 26 rootstock. Geneva 30 is very resistant to fire blight and exhibits some tolerance to apple replant disease.

EMLA 7

The most widely-planted free-standing semi-dwarf rootstock to date. EMLA 7 trees exhibit an open spreading-type growth similar to peach trees in size. The trees are well anchored, hardy, and size fruit well in a dry season. EMLA 7 has a tendency to rootsucker when not planted deep.

EMLA 106

Somewhat larger than EMLA 7, the EMLA 106 is better anchored. Resistant to woolly aphids, it seldom rootsuckers, and performs best on dry sites. It is extremely susceptible to collar rot and should not be planted in wet sites or heavy clay soils.

EMLA 111

A vigorous semi-dwarf, EMLA 111 produces a tree somewhat larger than EMLA 106. Trees are well anchored, resistant to collar rot and woolly aphids. A good selection for heavy, poorly-drained soils.

Top 6 Apple Varieties for Whitetails and Wildlife

Honeycrisp:
Extremely winter hardy to -40F. Bears fruit at a very young age and produces heavy annual crops at 5 years.

Liberty:
Hardy, vigorous and spurred (fruit buds develop along the shorter lateral branches along the limbs). Liberty blooms early in the season so is susceptible to late season frost. Fruit stays on the tree well after maturity and has very heavy annual bearing habit. Less cold tolerance than Honeycrisp (-20F).

Honeygold:
Produces a large yellow apple that is highly preferred by deer. Somewhat bi-annual (alternates years of strong and weak crops) if heavy crop years are not hand thinned. Very winter hardy, early producer and holds apples well.

Enterprise:
Extreme resistance to most major apple diseases. Blooms much later than Liberty and thus is less likely to experience late frost damage.

Jonafree:
A very firm, scab-resistant variety that tends to be small but bears very well. Cold tolerant to -20F.

Empire:
Susceptible to scab but serves as a good pollinator. Ripens in mid-October in northern Vermont. The apple remains firm and stays very well on the tree. Not recommended for warmer, humid regions due to its susceptibility to scab

Grimes Golden - Ripens Sept./Oct.

Rome - Ripens Sept./Oct.

Stayman Winesap - Ripens Oct.

Blacktwig - Ripens November

York - Ripens in Oct.

This is a list of Disease Resistant Varieties in order of Ripening (Early to Late) that ACN carries

Pristine (apple) - July 10

Redfree (apple) - August 5
Initial (apple) - August 20

Seckel (pear) - August 28

Blake's Pride (pear) - September 2
Magness (pear) - September 5
Potomac (pear) - September 9
Liberty (apple) - September 15
Crimson Gold (apple) - September 15
Crimson Topaz (apple) - September 18

Galarina (apple) - September 25

Freedom (apple) - October 1
Nova Spy (apple) - October 10
Querina (apple) - October 12

Enterprise (apple) - October 24
GoldRush (apple) - November 10
Hardy Cumberland (apple) - November 15

The following is a list of disease resistant apples Ben shared

Akane
Alkmene
ANTONOVKA KAMENICHKA
Chehalis
Crimson Gold
Crimson Topaz
Dayton
Enterprise
Florina Querina
Freedom
Galarina
Goldrush
Hardy Cumberland
Initial
Liberty
Lib Del
Murray
Novaeasygro
Novaspy
Ny 75414-1
Priam
Prima
Pristine
Redfree
Richelieu
Scarlett O'Hara
Sir prize
Williams' Pride
Wolf River




This list is in order of ripening, early to late

Yellow Transparent - July 2

Yellow Transparent Perrine - July 2

Lodi - July 4

Pristine - July 10
Redfree - August 5
Ginger Gold - August 12

Zestar! - August 15

Dandee Red - August 15

Sansa - August 15
Initial - August 20

Mollies Delicious - August 22

Summer Mac - August 22
Summer Rambo - August 25

Jonamac - August 26
Star Gala - August 26

Fulford Gala - August 26
Scotian Spur Macintosh - September 1

Buckeye Gala - September 2

Crimson Gala - September 2
Gale Gala - September 2
Marshall McIntosh - September 5
Linda Mac - September 5
Honeycrisp - September 10
Rogers Red McIntosh - September 10
Daybreak Fuji - September 10
CrimsonCrisp - September 10
Pioneer Mac - September 12
Royal Court - September 15
Cortland - September 15

Ruby Jon - September 15
Wolf River - September 15

Macoun - September 17
Liberty - September 17
Spur Winter Banana - September 20
Super Chief Spur Red Delicious - September 20

Ace Spur Red Delicious - September 20
Jonagold De Coster - September 20

Acey Mac - September 20

Golden Delicious - September 24
Galarina - September 25
Grimes Golden - September 26
Crown Empire - September 28

Royal Empire - September 28
Fortune (NY 429) - October 1

Freedom - October 1
Hampshire Mac - October 1
Shizuka - October 4

Idared - October 4

Melrose - October 4
Autumn Gala - October 4
Northern Spy - October 6
Lady - October 6
Smokehouse - October 6
Cameo - October 10
Nova Spy - October 10

Red Rome Beauty (Law Strain) - October 12
Nittany - October 12
Querina - October 12

Albemarle Pippen - October 13
Mutsu - October 14
Suncrisp - October 16
Snapp Stayman - October 20
Red Yorking - October 20
Red Winesap - October 24
Enterprise - October 24
Taylor Spur Rome - October 26
Kumeu Crimson Braeburn - November 1
Arkansas Black - November 3
Autumn Rose Fuji - November 4
Granny Smith - November 8
Goldrush - November 10
Pink Lady® brand Cripps Pink Variety - November 14
Hardy Cumberland - November 15

Apple Pollinizers available from ACN

Plantings which do not use varieties providing adequate cross pollination should use one of the following varieties for secondary pollen source. Pollinizers should be placed every fifty feet and staggered in adjacent rows.

Chestnut
An excellent pollinizer for early to mid-season bloom cultivars. Trees are medium in vigor and slightly upright, with large, white blossoms. The large size fruit is marketable for use in preserves or decorations.

Bloom: Early Season

Available Rootstock(s)
EMLA 26
EMLA 7
EMLA 111


Pollination Information
Chestnut crab is an early blooming variety and can pollinate all other early blooming apple varieties as well as varieties with mid-season bloom times.


Indian Summer
A flowering crab apple pollinizer for the early season bloom. Indian Summer produces abundant pink flowers with viable pollen over an extended period.
Bloom: Late Season

Available Rootstock(s)
EMLA 7


Pollination Information
Indian Summer blooms early in the season and will pollinate all other early blooming varieties.


Snowdrift
A mid-season to late blooming variety, often used to pollinize Red Delicious. Bloom is white, flowers small. Fruits are salmon egg sized, yellow with orange cheek. Snowdrift is used to pollinate mid-season apple varieties.
Bloom: Mid Season

Available Rootstock(s)
EMLA 26


Hyslop
A mid-season blooming crab apple that provides large red fruit 1 to 1-1/2 inch in diameter. Often used for jams and jellies because of its large size, and sometimes added to cider where tanin content is desired. Care must be taken to avoid biennial bearing, which reduces effectiveness as a pollen source. Tree is medium in vigor, precocious, with moderate resistance to fire blight.
Bloom: Mid Season

Available Rootstock(s)
BUD 9
EMLA 26
EMLA 7


Pollination Information
Hysolp blooms in mid-season and will pollinate early blooming apple varieties and varieties blooming in the middle of the season.


Manchurian
Early to mid-season bloom corresponding with Red Delicious. Flowers white and large. Tree is very vigorous and upright.
Bloom: Mid Season

Available Rootstock(s)
BUD 9


Pollination Information
Manchurian crab blooms in early season and will pollinate early blooming apple varieties and varieties blooming in the middle of the season.


Spur Winter Banana
Excellent pollinizer for Red Delicious. Spur-type growth makes tree compact with little maintenance required. Tree begins bearing at an early age. Annual defruiting of tree will optimize return bloom.
Bloom: Mid Season


General information on apple varieties:

Apples and More (http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/apples/varieties.html)

Apple Varieties (http://www.naturalhub.com/grow_fruit_cultivars_apple.htm)

All about apples (http://www.allaboutapples.com/varieties/)


Pears
Adams County Nursery (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_pear.php) also has pear trees and remember Asian pears tend to mature much later in the fall and are also more disease resistant.

Asian Pears

Shinseiki - August 20

Kosui - August 23

Hosui - August 28
Shinko - September 10
Niitaka - September 17

Yoinashi - September 20
Tse Li - October 1
Ya Li - October 1

Atago - October 5

Olympic - October 10

European Pears

Clapp's Favorite - August 10

Red Clapps - August 10

Bartlett - August 20

Red Bartlett - August 20

Seckel - August 28

Blake's Pride - September 2

Magness - September 5

Potomac - September 8

Buerre D'Anjou - September 12

Buerre Bosc - September 15


Just make sure you fence them! Apple tree Cages (http://forums.qdma.com/showthread.php?t=22578)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Appletrees.jpg

I plant most of mine in my backyard...because, well...I hunt in my backyard! :D

Planting and soil preperation

The following link covers most of what you'll need to prepare for your new apple trees.

Planting & Growing Apple Trees (http://www.greenwoodnursery.com/Documents/Planting_Apple_Trees.pdf)

Apple trees need full sun for proper growth and quality fruit production. At least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day is required. Any less time and the trees may become leggy and produce limited flowers. The early morning sun is particularly important since it dries the dew from the leaves, thereby reducing the incidence of diseases.

Apples need a second apple tree of a different variety for cross pollination. The cross pollinator should be of a variety that has an over lapping bloom period with the first tree.

Apple planting sites should be free of spring frosts and have good air circulation. Do not plant along fence rows, wooded areas or near the bottom of a hill or low area.

Apple trees grow well in a wide range of soil types. They prefer soils with a texture of sandy loam. Soil tests should be taken before planting so that any adjustments can be made to the soil.

Prepare the soil by plowing, tilling, or otherwise turning it. Add in organic matter such as aged manure or compost.

Lime should be added as recommended by the soil test. If tests are not available, apply 10 pounds of lime per 100 square feet.

Growing Apple Trees In The Home Garden (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-8301.html)

Apple tree growing Information (http://landscaping.about.com/cs/fruittreesbushes/a/apple_trees.htm)

Care of the Mature Backyard Apple Tree (http://extension.unh.edu/Pubs/HGPubs/caremat.pdf)

Adams County Nursery - Fruit Tree Planting Guide (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_planting.php)

Some advice from apple expert Ben from the QDMA forums

Fundamentals of fruit tree planting for wildlife

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Most of you will have heard it before, but for the new folks, some good info I hope.

1. Pick a south exposed, sunny location but close enough to cover so deer will visit the orchard frequently and before dark. The north side of a field is ideal. Choose disease resistant mix of varieties that drop early, mid and winter season.

2. Prepare your soil as if you were planting any other crop. Lime to 6.5, test soil for NPK and adjust accordingly. If you do not do this, you are wasting time, money and hard work planting apple trees. Mature apple tree roots run a 20' diameter horizontally.

3. Cage, stake and mulch your trees shortly after planting. Every year, the same posts come through in the winter "deer ate my apple trees!". Research this subject and pick the best materials for you. In budget terms, if given a choice of planting 5 trees, properly protected, vs 25 trees unprotected, go for the 5 option every time.

4. Keep the bugs off your young trees. Tent caterpillars, apple borers, ants, aphids are all sucking the life from your young tree. Make an effort to spray your young trees for insects, several times a summer. Learn to identify these pests. Spray entire tree, leaves, wood, all the way to the ground. Keep the grass mowed within 20' of your young trees to relieve insect pressure and allow birds to prey. Put bird houses around your orchard to encourage insect eaters, like swallows and finches. A sprayed tree will bear fruit much earlier. Plan to spray your trees for 5 years, minimum or 10 years preferably.

5. Train (preferably) or prune (remedial) young trees to a central leader. Establish a 10' central leader by year 3. Keep branch angles as perpendicular to the leader as possible by training when they first emerge. Cut all other vertical growth off your trees during dormancy or summer pruning, so the energy goes to the leader and structural branches.

6. Don't let a young tree overbear. Lots of folks here are growing Liberty and other drc's that are very early bearing. Thin your apples to 12" spacing between fruits until year 4 or 5, depending on roots.

7. Fertilize, remove weeds, renew mulch when necessary.
If these guidelines are followed, after year 10, a fruit tree will fruit for 20 more years without any maintenance, but ideally, apple trees receive annual or biennial maintenance (pruning)

Ben




Fertilizer and Lime

Fertilization Fruit trees (http://www.msnla.org/tranning/small%20fruits.htm)


Generally, apple trees need fertilizing each year. Nitrogen is the most impor*tant nutrient needed. Two other nutrients, phosphorus and potassium, are needed in relatively large amounts, particularly on young trees. After the trees reach maturity, fertilization with phosphorus and potassium will probably not be re*quired.



To fertilize apple trees the year they are planted, broadcast over a two foot circle one cup of balanced fertilizer or equivalent fertilizer about one month after planting. Do not put any fertilizer in the hole before planting. In June following planting, broadcast another cup of fertilizer around the tree.

In early spring of the second season (when the tree is one year old), broadcast two cups of fertilizer over a three-foot circle. Repeat this again in June.

In succeeding years, the following guidelines should be followed for the dif*ferent areas:

Standard Trees: Increase the diameter of the broadcast circle and the amount of fertilizer (10-10-10) by two cups per year. When the tree is six years old and older, only nitrogen fertilizer is needed. Use four cups of ammonium nitrate per tree for trees six to eight years old and six cups for trees nine years old and older.

If you severely prune the tree, do not apply any fertilizer that year. Likewise, if growth is excessive, omit fertilizer for a year or two until growth is reduced to a desirable amount (terminal growth on bearing trees averaging 10 to 15 inches per year is the desired amount of growth).

Semi-dwarf Trees: Increase the diameter of the broadcast circle and the amount of balanced fertilizer by two cups per year. Once the trees reach four years of age, apply eight cups of 10-10-10 per tree. Apply this amount in years five through seven. For trees eight years old and older, apply four cups of am*monium nitrate per tree. If, in any given year, you severely prune the trees or the trees are too vigorous, omit fertilizer that year.

Dwarf trees: During the third and fourth season, broadcast over a four
foot circle four cups of balanced fertilizer around each tree both years. Trees in their fifth and sixth seasons should receive six cups of fertilizer per tree broadcast over a five-foot diameter circle. Seven year old and older trees should receive only nitrogen at a rate of about two cups of ammonium nitrate per tree. Broadcast this over a five-foot diameter area.

Caution: When fertilizing, never dump large amounts in a small area. Root burn may result. Also, keep fertilizer six inches or more away from the trunk. Always broadcast the fertilizer evenly over the recommended area.


Once the trees begin to bear, use shoot growth to determine if you need to reduce or supplement the fertilization rates previously suggested. Ten to 15 inches of growth are ideal for bearing trees. If growth is more than this, reduce the rate of fertilization. If growth is less, apply a little extra fertilizer the next season.

____________________



First off I added lime and fertlizer...lime was $3.60 a bag and 10-10-10 fertilizer was $8.50 (20# bags) at Menards just for a reference. Not a big investment to keep trees healthy and growing.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/PellLime.jpg

I used my tree planting spud to loosen and open up ground around the drip line of the tree.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Fertilize2.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Limeandfertilizetrench.jpg

I used a small coffee can and put about a 1.5 to 2#' of triple 10 around each tree and about 5#'s of pell lime around each tree.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Fertilize1.jpg

The lime I scattered in the trench pockets and all over the surface area as well and then raked it in lightly and covered the pockets to bury the fertilizer.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Lime.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Finishedlimeandfertilize.jpg

Fertilizing Tree Fruits (http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/index.html#http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/TRA/PLANTS/fruitfert.html)

Fertilizing Apple Trees (http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/apple_fert.htm)

Fertilizer Stakes (http://www.naturehills.com/product/fruit_tree_fertilizer_stakes.aspx)

Assorted Fertilizers (http://www.starnursery.com/products.php?root=2&sub1=24)

Root Feed for fruit Trees (http://www.rootfeed.com/problemsolver/fruit_trees.html)

Fertilizing Fruit Trees (http://extension.unh.edu/Pubs/HGPubs/fertfrt.pdf)

Training and staking

Training and Pruning Apple Trees - Cornell Guide 112 (http://eap.mcgill.ca/CPTFP_7.htm)

Training and Pruning Your Home Orchard (http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/html/pnw/pnw400/)

Cotton string comes in handy

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CottonString.jpg

To tie limbs horizontally which strengthens the limb joint so that it won't be so apt to break under the weight of heavy fruit.

I tied square knots to create a loop so that the string won't tighten and girdle a limb

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/NoKnot.jpg

Leaving the tree looking something like this (NOTE- DO NOT use tubes!! I removed these and replaced with alum. window screen)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Tyingoff2.jpg

There are many options including using commercial limb spreaders, toothpicks and clothespins all of which can be found in this link on Training and pruning apple trees (http://learningstore.uwex.edu/pdf/A1959.pdf)

I nipped off suckers sprouting up from the base area

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Sucker.jpg

and installed plastic tree protectors and tied the tree to the stake for support. (use fine wire screen instead!!)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/TubeTie.jpg

After doing this I was advised that aluminum window screen makes a better guard because it can breath yet protect. Borers get behind the plastic guards and then can kill the tree so I will pick up some screen and use that along with plastic tie's in the future.

A friend stopped by today who had this exact problem last year...borers killed one of his trees after moths got behind the plastic protector and he is also using screen now which enables one to spray insecticide through as well... ;)

Staking the tree for support against wind is important

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Tietostake.jpg

1/2 conduit seems to be the best choice using care not to bend it when driving it in.

One needs to remove all double leaders to encourage one central leader and then support it via the conduit or a set of wires running between posts (or trellis of some kind)

I fasten the name tags to the posts so I can remember what is what and keep a record on paper in a file as well.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Goldrush.jpg

Here's what we need to replace the plastic protectors (that encourage apple moths/borers) with...

Aluminum window screen...I bought this 28" for .79 cents a foot and used a foot per tree

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/WS2.jpg

Staple the top shut

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/WindowScreen1.jpg

Staple the sides shut as well

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/WSStaples.jpg

Make sure the bottom is tight to the ground and add stone mulch later to keep down weeds and discourage mice and other pests

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/BottomTight.jpg

Two 5' posts and 40-48" wire lifted off the ground will protect most trees from bucks or browsing but some may need a taller heavier setup.

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/AppletreeCage.jpg

1st year trees

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0044.jpg

2nd year trees

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0045.jpg

3rd year trees

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0047.jpg

Painting

White latex paint applied annually to tree trunks helps protect against killing of cambium or bark from sudden temperature changes in late fall and winter. Painting the lower trunk makes it easier to detect insect borer infestation, and may deter them. Addition of rabbit repellent to the paint protects young trees from bark stripping by rabbits during the winter.

To make trunk paint, mix one gallon of white interior latex paint into 4 to 5 quarts of water. Do not use oil-based paint. If needed, add rabbit repellent as per the label directions.

Mix these well, and pour the final mix through a nylon stocking to filter out lumps that would clog the sprayer nozzle. Hand-pump backpack sprayers work well for application.

If protection from rabbits is not needed, omit repellent from the mix and spray only the south half of the trunk and lower scaffolds. It is only the lower parts of the tree exposed to warming by sunlight that need protection of the reflective paint. For best weather resistance, latex paint should be applied during mild (50oF or higher) dry weather.


This video explains apple training very well

UMass Fruit Advisor: apple training techniques (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddP7cbCiLR4)

Central leader development:

http://eap.mcgill.ca/CPTFP_7.fig11.GIF

Pinching apple trees for leader development (http://www.qdmaforums.com/showthread.php?t=24533)

Articles on how and when to prune apple trees:

Pruning Apple Trees (http://forums.qdma.com/showthread.php?t=22584)

Pruning Apple trees (http://eap.mcgill.ca/CPTFP_7.htm)

Pruning and Training fruit trees (http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1351.htm)

Great pruning info. (http://www.rickerhill.com/Pruning.htm)

Training and Pruning Apple Trees (http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/treefruit/422-021/422-021.html)

All About Caring for Apple Trees (http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/C740.htm)

Pruning & Training Apple & Pear Trees (http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1351.htm)

Ben on scoring the leader (http://www.qdmaforums.com/showthread.php?t=16088)

Tips on growing/pruning caged apple trees by Ben on the QDMA Forum

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Planting year (1st leaf)

1. Stake your tree immediately after planting (1/2" elec conduit is what I use). And 8' hardwood 1" stake is also excellent. Mulch with gravel/peastone, crushed rock etc. out to the cage diameter.

3. prune the main leader back to 36 inches for 5/16-1/2 diameter whips and back to 4' or so for 3/4" whips. For feathered (branched trees) cut them off 18" or so above the top feather. When heading back, cut just above (1/2") a bud at a slight angle, to not damage the "root" of the terminal bud.

2. Fasten the tree to the stake with aglock, string etc, with some breathing room.

4. Let the buds sprout and assess the condition of the tree. If it is lively, there will be lots of buds sprouted out 1/2" or so and green. Maybe some flowers (remove all flowers year 1) If the tree shows only a little life by mid June, let it sprout more and start training next year.

5. When the buds are out 1-3 inches, the top several buds will look like they are all trying to become branches. Leave the top bud and remove all the others below, within 4 inches. If growth is weak, fertilize with 6 oz 10-10-10 around the base but not touching the tree, scratch into the mulch.

6. If lower branches head north and try to become a leader (very likely), tie them down with kitchen string, weights, clothes pins etc. keep them weak.

7. If you have a green thumb and decent soil, you will get 2-4' of leader growth of your selected leader.



Second leaf

1. In March (or before bud break for your locale) prune 50%-75% of the branches inside the cage off as close to the trunk as possible. Any nub left will resprout (dutch cut), so try to get it close. Start bottom work up.

2. If your leader growth was more than 4', cut it back to a ripe bud at 4'. Score above some buds above your cage, where you want your lowest branches. For B118, 5-6' off the ground is about right I think, but variety will play a part in branching habits so make the call.

3. If your leader growth was less than 2', repeat the leader process by repeating step 5 above, and do not score above any buds. Did you fertilize?

4. On your new branches, try to get good angles on the branches, again, variety dependent, you may need to clothespin and tie some branches out....use limb spreaders, weights, whatever.

6. After your tree is taller than 8', you should practice dormant season pruning on the top of the tree, to maintain leader growth. Basically allow the tree to produce several leaders ever year, and remove the ones you don't want in March. This is normal dormant pruning as done on mature trees. Eventually your tree, will produce high branches that will shade the lower. Suckers (upright whips off a branch) will form, and should be removed dormant season also.


Videos on pruning

Fruitwise guide to apple tree pruning-using the saw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeqzDWtwk-M)

Fruitwise guide to pruning-the neglected apple tree (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmC7Z52XpYc)

Fruitwise pruning a neglected tree part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=radWX37yze8)

Fruitwise guide to pruning apple trees-part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_jqgWXlUHM)

Fruitwise guide to pruning apple trees part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8MgH9u5Q6o)

Fruitwise guide to apple tree pruning-sawing large branch (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBmFQQVGFgk)

Disease

Many diseases spoil the apple for human consumption but perhaps not for wildlife, still I prefer to plant varieties that are disease resistant.

Disease-Resistant Apple Cultivars (http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G6026)

This link includes more info on diseases of apple trees:

Apple & Crabapple Diseases (http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/hgic2000.htm)

Fruit Disease links (http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/fruit/index.htm)

Cedar Apple Rust is pretty hard to avoid here in Iowa so I try to select for trees that carry some resistance to this problem.

I recently learned that a wonderful commercial fungicide, Nova, has been formulated in a home product, Spectracide's IMMUNOX.

To get the absolute most out of Nova (Spectracide's Immunox), modify our Simplified Spray schedule as follows: Change spray #2 into sprays 2A and 2B. Spray #2A goes on at blossom stage ¼-inch green to ½-inch green. Spray #2B goes on ten days later or at pink, whichever occurs later. Sprays 2B, 3, and 4 will have Nova added to what you intended to otherwise spray at these times. (Don't waste your Nova in sprays after #4). With the addition of Nova to the home spray schedule as suggested here, the home grower can basically kiss three spring apple diseases -- Scab, Cedar Apple Rust, and Powdery Mildew -- goodbye for the season. It's almost like magic.

Taken from this link: ADDENDUM TO SIMPLIFIED HOME ORCHARD SPRAY SCHEDULE (http://www.applesource.com/growadd.html)



Spectracide Immunox Multi-Purpose Fungicide (http://www.spectracide.com/ProductCategories/RoseAndFlowerCare/SpectracideImmunox/)

Spectracide Immunox Plus Insect & Disease Control (http://www.spectracide.com/ProductCategories/RoseAndFlowerCare/SpectracideImmunoxPlus/)

Cedar-Apple Rust (http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/disease_descriptions/omcar.html)

apple cultivar susceptibility to the cedar-apple rust fungus (http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/tables/carsus.html)

Cedar-Apple Rust and Related Rust Diseases (http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/path-ext/factSheets/Apple/Cedar%20Apple%20Rust.asp)

CEDAR-APPLE RUST (http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/FactSheets/cedar-applerust/cedar-applerust.htm)

Fire Blight (http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/disease_descriptions/omblight.html)

Controlling Fire Blight (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7414.html)


Insecticides and Fungicides

You can sign up for Apple Pest Reports via email through this link or just open them here:

2009 Apple Pest Report (http://pmo.umext.maine.edu/apple/AppPestReport.html)

This link contains a number of questions and answers regarding dealing with apple tree pests.
Questions on: Apple Insects (http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/tree/appleinsec.htm)

Q: For many years, we have had an abundance of apples with worms in them. This makes the apples inedible. What should we be doing to get rid of the worms? (Mooreton, N.D.)

A: Spray using an insecticide, such as Sevin, at blossom drop and again in 10 to 14 days. Spraying two more times after that should do the trick. You can try pheromone traps, if you can locate them. Put two or three traps in the larger trees. Picking up the apples that drop to the ground in the fall goes a long way in breaking the infestation cycle.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q: I know this might sound stupid but when you say "mock apples" do you mean just any old fake apple or is there something called mock apples that are made for this purpose? I can't imagine why a maggot would get stuck on a plastic apple! (McClusky, N.D.)

A: They do sell apples, plastic or otherwise, that are covered with a tangle-foot type of material. The apples may contain pheromone that attracts the female adult insect. The insects die of dehydration after being trapped. You can also get the sex pheromone traps that attract the males into thinking there is a female within. It’s nasty to the insect but it works and is better than spraying a lot of indiscriminate insecticides.


SIMPLIFIED HOME ORCHARD SPRAY SCHEDULE (http://www.applesource.com/growtips.html)

2009 Midwest Tree Fruit Spray Guide (http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM1282.pdf)

Protecting Backyard Apple Trees from Apple Maggot (http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1928/EB1928.pdf)

Apple and Pear Insects (http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05519.html)

ISU Apple Insect Control Field Trials (http://www.public.iastate.edu/~appleipm/appleIPMMod/codlingMoth/fieldTrials.html)

QDMA Apple Spraying Discussion (http://forums.qdma.com/showthread.php?t=22967)

Orchard Supplies (http://www.johnsonnursery.com/OrchardSupplies.htm#Fruit%20Tree%20Spray)

Woolly Apple Aphid (http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2208.html)

Insecticides used to control woolly apple aphid in commercial orchards are dimethoate (Cygon), endosulfan (Thiodan), chlorpyriphos (Lorsban), or methyl parathion (Penncap-M). Home gardeners can use diazinon or insecticidal soap.

Woolly apple aphid infestations on rootstocks cannot be controlled by insecticides


APPLE SCAB. Many trees in some areas of the state are nearly defoliated. However, some crabapples have suffered little damage, attesting to the value of planting scab resistant cultivars. Apple scab lesions appear as small, irregularly shaped olive green spots, often located along veins in the leaves. Infected leaves will turn yellow and drop from the tree later in the season. It is too late to provide any effective suppression of scab on heavily infested ornamental trees but treatment should continue on bearing apple trees. Fungicides such as Captain and Benlate should be effective (read label for directions).



SpringStar Apple Maggot Traps (http://www.biconet.com/traps/AppleMaggotTrap.html)

APPLE MAGGOTS are probably emerging now and will begin laying their eggs on apple fruit. The "railroad worm," as it is called, is the larva of a small insect that resembles a house-fly but has dark markings on the wings. The adult emerges from the soil and goes off in search of apples. The adult lays an egg just under the skin of the apple. The egg soon hatches into the maggot that feeds inside the apple. Infested apples will typically have a small black speck on the skin of the apple. The apple may also be "dimpled" where the egg has been laid. Small brown streaks will be seen in the flesh of the apple where the maggot has fed. Infested fruit, while unattractive, is still edible but has a much shorter storage life. Sticky red ball traps may be used to monitor for the emergence of the adults.
Begin treatment when five adults have been captured on a sticky ball. Apply protective sprays of malathion, diazinon, Imidan or use a combination orchard spray to reduce infestations. Some people have reported good results by simply using 6 to 8 sticky traps in a few trees in a yard to reduce damage to tolerable levels without using insecticides.


This is a comprehensive list of fruit tree insecticides:

Insecticides - A-Z (http://www.virginiafruit.ento.vt.edu/SprayGuide/treeinsecticides.html)

Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Fruit Plantings (http://ohioline.osu.edu/b780/index.html)

Fruit Tree answers (http://www.bookcliffgardens.com/answercenter/fruit_trees.htm)

The flip side of caring for your apple trees involves spraying. It is extremely important, and necessary if you want to avoid losing your entire crop to these nasty coddling moths. Beginning when the fruit is the size of a marble (and hopefully just after you've thinned them), spray EVERY WEEK TO 10 DAYS without fail until the fruit is ready to be picked. I know it sounds extreme, but this guy is determined and if you miss spraying he'll move right in. Rotating sprays is best. Use Hi-Yield 38 Plus, Sevin, or Spinosad, alternating sprays each time. You don't need to have all three sprays, just choose two and then USE THEM!

Ways to Reduce Pesticide Use (http://www.ncwildlife.org/pg07_wildlifespeciescon/pg7f2b4.htm)

Tree Fruit Production with Organic Farming Methods (http://organic.tfrec.wsu.edu/OrganicIFP/OrganicFruitProduction/OrganicMgt.PDF)

Organic fruit tree care (http://www.arbico-organics.com/fruittreecare.html)

Organic Fruit Tree Sprays (http://www.greenlightco.com/products/_LiquidInsecticides.htm)



Budding and Grafting

Budding and Grafting (http://forums.qdma.com/showthread.php?t=20480)

Grafting pictures (http://www.kickapoo-orchard.com/all_about_apples.html)

Dbltree's Apple/Pear list:


2008 Adams County nursery

Goldrush EMLA 111 (NOT CAR resistant)
Enterprise EMLA 111
Autumn Rose Fuji Bud 9
Red Rome 262 EMLA 111

2009 Century Farms Nursery

Royal Limbertwig
Kinnaird's Choice
Terry Winter
Gold Rush,
Florina (Querina),
Yates
Keener Seedling
old fashion Limbertwig
Imperial York apple

Kieffer pear
Magness Pear

Burnt Ridge Nursery

KOREAN GIANT ASIAN PEAR (SEMI . Don Bae) (Pyrus pyrifolia)
semi-dwarf

SHINKO ASIAN PEAR (Pyrus pyrif SEMI olia)
semi - dwarf

ASIAN PEAR (Twentie SEMI th Century) (Pyrus pyrifolia)
semi-dwarf

2010 Burnt Ridge Nursery

ARKANSAS BLACK APPLE (Malus do SEMI-M111 mestica)
semi dwarf, M111 rootstock

SPITZENBERG APPLE (Malus domes SEMI-M111 tica)
semi-dwarf, M111 rootstock

CALVILLE BLANC D'HIVER APPLE(M SEMI-M111 alus domestica)
semi dwarf, M111 rootstock

CHOJURO ASIAN PEAR (Pyrus pyri SEMI folia)
semi-dwarf






http://www.iowawhitetail.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

[dbltree]

Originally Posted By: paleopoint
Dbltree ....

If you don't mind....can you share with us what varieties of apples you chose from ACN....and perhaps, some of your thinking that led to those choices.

I'm confident you would lay some brainpower onto it and I'm curious to see if I can piggyback onto your efforts.

Thnx in advance.



This past summer was pretty hectic (to put it mildly...;))so I didn't keep up on questions such as these. Only one problem with my wife's recovery is that she went to work on my file cabinet "mess" and now I can't find anything not that I could actually find it before ....

I requested a copy of the trees I ordered but it remains to be seen if they actually send me a copy of my order. Adams County Nursery (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_about.php)

This is a list of ACN apple stock for an example...you can order these from other suppliers:



The list below identifies the ripening order for each of our apple tree varieties. Use this list to help choose apple trees which yield fruit at different times during the season.

Yellow Transparent - July 2

Yellow Transparent Perrine - July 2

Lodi - July 4

Pristine - July 10
William's Pride - July 15

Redfree - August 5
Ginger Gold - August 12

Zestar! - August 15

Dandee Red - August 15

Sansa - August 15
Initial - August 20

Mollies Delicious - August 22

Summer Mac - August 22
Summer Rambo - August 25

Jonamac - August 26
Star Gala - August 26

Fulford Gala - August 26
Scotian Spur Macintosh - September 1

Buckeye Gala - September 2

Crimson Gala - September 2
Gale Gala - September 2
N.W. Greening - September 5

Marshall McIntosh - September 5
Linda Mac - September 5
Honeycrisp - September 10
Rogers Red McIntosh - September 10
Daybreak Fuji - September 10
CrimsonCrisp - September 10
Pioneer Mac - September 12
Sweet Sixteen - September 14
Royal Court - September 15
Cortland - September 15

Ruby Jon - September 15

Macoun - September 17
Liberty - September 17
Spur Winter Banana - September 20
Jersey Red - September 20

Super Chief Spur Red Delicious - September 20

Ace Spur Red Delicious - September 20
Ambrosia - September 20
Jonagold De Coster - September 20

Acey Mac - September 20

Golden Delicious - September 24
Galarina - September 25
Autumn Gold - September 25

Grimes Golden - September 26
Crown Empire - September 28

Royal Empire - September 28
Fortune (NY 429) - October 1

Freedom - October 1
Hampshire Mac - October 1
Shizuka - October 4

Idared - October 4

Melrose - October 4
Autumn Gala - October 4
Northern Spy - October 6
Lady - October 6
Smokehouse - October 6
Cameo - October 10

Red Rome Beauty (Law Strain) - October 12
Nittany - October 12
Albemarle Pippen - October 13
Mutsu - October 14
Suncrisp - October 16
Snapp Stayman - October 20
Red Yorking - October 20
Red Winesap - October 24
Enterprise - October 24
Taylor Spur Rome - October 26
Red Rome 262 - October 26
Kumeu Crimson Braeburn - November 1
Arkansas Black - November 3
Autumn Rose Fuji - November 4
Granny Smith - November 8
Goldrush - November 10
Pink Lady® brand Cripps Pink Variety - November 14
Hardy Cumberland - November 15



What I look for is ripening dates that will coincide with hunting dates and then look for disease resistant varieties in that time frame.

You can see that combining dates and disease resistance considerably shortens the list...



Pristine (apple) - July 10

William's Pride (apple) - July 15
Redfree (apple) - August 5
Initial (apple) - August 20

Seckel (pear) - August 28

Blake's Pride (pear) - September 2
Magness (pear) - September 5
Potomac (pear) - September 9
Liberty (apple) - September 15
Crimson Gold (apple) - September 15
Crimson Topaz (apple) - September 18

Galarina (apple) - September 25

Freedom (apple) - October 1
Enterprise (apple) - October 24
GoldRush (apple) - November 10
Hardy Cumberland (apple) - November 15



It also doesn't hurt to think about Pollinators if needed:



Apple Pollinators
Plantings which do not use varieties providing adequate cross pollination should use one of the following varieties for secondary pollen source. Pollinators should be placed every fifty feet and staggered in adjacent rows. Contact your ACN representative for recommendations for your specific needs.

Chestnut
An excellent pollinator for early to mid-season bloom cultivars. Trees are medium in vigor and slightly upright, with large, white blossoms. The large size fruit is marketable for use in preserves or decorations.

Bloom: Early Season

Available Rootstock(s)
EMLA 26
EMLA 7
EMLA 111


Pollination Information
Chestnut crab is an early blooming variety and can pollinate all other early blooming apple varieties as well as varieties with mid-season bloom times.


Hyslop
A mid-season blooming crab apple that provides large red fruit 1 to 1-1/2 inch in diameter. Often used for jams and jellies because of its large size, and sometimes added to cider where tannin content is desired. Care must be taken to avoid biennial bearing, which reduces effectiveness as a pollen source. Tree is medium in vigor, precocious, with moderate resistance to fire blight.
Bloom: Mid Season

Available Rootstock(s)
BUD 9
EMLA 26
EMLA 7


Pollination Information
Hysolp blooms in mid-season and will pollinate early blooming apple varieties and varieties blooming in the middle of the season.


Indian Summer
A flowering crab apple pollinizer for the early season bloom. Indian Summer produces abundant pink flowers with viable pollen over an extended period.
Bloom: Late Season

Available Rootstock(s)
EMLA 7


Pollination Information
Indian Summer blooms early in the season and will pollinate all other early blooming varieties.


Manchurian
Early to mid-season bloom corresponding with Red Delicious. Flowers white and large. Tree is very vigorous and upright.
Bloom: Mid Season

Available Rootstock(s)
BUD 9


Pollination Information
Manchurian crab blooms in early season and will pollinate early blooming apple varieties and varieties blooming in the middle of the season.


Snowdrift
A mid-season to late blooming variety, often used to pollinize Red Delicious. Bloom is white, flowers small. Fruits are salmon egg sized, yellow with orange cheek. Snowdrift is used to pollinate mid-season apple varieties.
Bloom: Mid Season

Available Rootstock(s)
EMLA 26


Spur Winter Banana
Excellent pollinizer for Red Delicious. Spur-type growth makes tree compact with little maintenance required. Tree begins bearing at an early age. Annual defruiting of tree will optimize return bloom.
Bloom: Mid Season





Think about rootstock that matches your soil and tree type: Apple Rootstocks (http://www.acnursery.com/rootstock.php)

Just a couple that will work in my heavy clay ground:

Quote:
EMLA 106

Somewhat larger than EMLA 7, the EMLA 106 is better anchored. Resistant to woolly aphids, it seldom rootsuckers, and performs best on dry sites. It is extremely susceptible to collar rot and should not be planted in wet sites or heavy clay soils.
EMLA 111

A vigorous semi-dwarf, EMLA 111 produces a tree somewhat larger than EMLA 106. Trees are well anchored, resistant to collar rot and woolly aphids. A good selection for heavy, poorly-drained soils.



It's that time of year when we start planning for spring plantings (assuming all your tags are filled... :)) and there are plenty of great nurseries to "shop" for apple and pear trees:

Adams County Nursery (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_about.php)

Boyer Nurseries (http://www.boyernurseries.com/index.htm)

Stark Nursery (http://www.starkbros.com/?fc=1)

Miller Nusery (http://www.millernurseries.com/index.php)

Vintage Virginia Apples (http://www.vintagevirginiaapples.com/index.html)

Morse Nursery (http://www.morsenursery.com/)

Red Fern Farm (http://www.redfernfarm.com/)

Raintree Nursery - Asian Pears (http://www.raintreenursery.com/catalog/producttype.cfm?producttype=Pears-Asian)

Burnt Ridge Nursery - Apples and Pears (http://www.burntridgenursery.com/products.asp?dept=10)

Woodstock Nursery (http://www.wallace-woodstock.com/appletrees.htm)

St. Lawrence Nurseries (http://www.sln.potsdam.ny.us/)

Cummins Nursery (http://www.cumminsnursery.com/)

Oikos Tree crops (http://oikostreecrops.com/store/prodtype.asp?cookiecheck=yes&PT_ID=83&strPageHistory=cat)

If your not confused by all of that...there are at least a "bazillion" varieties to decide from...

All About Apples - Varieties (http://www.allaboutapples.com/varieties/)

Apple Cultivars (http://www.naturalhub.com/grow_fruit_cultivars_apple.htm)

Apples and More (http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/apples/varieties.html)

Pruning Apple Trees (http://counties.cce.cornell.edu/Chemung/publications/pruning-apple-trees.pdf)

Pruning and Training (http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1351.htm)

More pruning (http://www.rickerhill.com/Pruning.htm)

Spring Cold Impact on Apple Crops (http://www.allaboutapples.com/backyard/budfreeze.htm)

Full size Apple trees vs Dwarf Apple trees (http://www.qdmaforums.com/showthread.php?t=13142)

Apple Rootstocks and Spacings (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-300-a.html)

That should keep you busy while I try to figure just what the heck I planted... :)

[dbltree]

Previously in this thread we have shared plenty of places to order apple and pear trees but I thought I would add more info on preparing your site for planting.

The following link covers most of what you'll need to prepare for your new apple trees.

Planting & Growing Apple Trees (http://www.greenwoodnursery.com/Documents/Planting_Apple_Trees.pdf)



Apple trees need full sun for proper growth and quality fruit production. At least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day is required. Any less time and the trees may become leggy and produce limited flowers. The early morning sun is particularly important since it dries the dew from the leaves, thereby reducing the incidence of diseases.

Apples need a second apple tree of a different variety for cross pollination. The cross pollinator should be of a variety that has an over lapping bloom period with the first tree.

Apple planting sites should be free of spring frosts and have good air circulation. Do not plant along fence rows, wooded areas or near the bottom of a hill or low area.

Apple trees grow well in a wide range of soil types. They prefer soils with a texture of sandy loam. Soil tests should be taken before planting so that any adjustments can be made to the soil.

Prepare the soil by plowing, tilling, or otherwise turning it. Add in organic matter such as aged manure or compost.

Lime should be added as recommended by the soil test. If tests are not available, apply 10 pounds of lime per 100 square feet.



Growing Apple Trees In The Home Garden (http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-8301.html)

Apple tree growing Information (http://landscaping.about.com/cs/fruittreesbushes/a/apple_trees.htm)

Care of the Mature Backyard Apple Tree (http://extension.unh.edu/Pubs/HGPubs/caremat.pdf)

Adams County Nursery - Fruit Tree Planting Guide (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_planting.php)

There are a number of links on pruning also a few posts back in this thread but this is a good link on the subject:

Pruning & Training Apple & Pear Trees (http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1351.htm)

Many diseases spoil the apple for human consumption but perhaps not for wildlife, still I prefer to plant varieties that are disease resistant.

This link includes more info on diseases of apple trees:

Apple & Crabapple Diseases (http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/hgic2000.htm)

Cedar/Apple rust is pretty hard to avoid here in Iowa so I try to select for trees that carry some resistance to this problem.

Randy located this link on Cedar-Apple Rust (http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/disease_descriptions/omcar.html) but more important it includes a link to disease resistant varieties.

apple cultivar susceptibility to the cedar-apple rust fungus (http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/tables/carsus.html)

There are so many disease resistant varieties to choose from such as this list from Adams County Nursery (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_resistant.php)






Liberty apples are on that is also very disease resistant but the key is to find disease resistant apple trees that will ripen in late fall. Which narrows the field a bit.

Several of us have been discussing pooling a spring order at Adams Co. Nursery because there is a significant price drop once you order 25 trees and even more at 100 trees.

It's something to think about before you place an order for apple trees. Perhaps this thread would be a good place to mention if your interested in combining an order.

ACN Price Sheet (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_pricesheet.php)

Rather then pay $25-30 a tree combining an order can drop the price to $10-14 a tree.
ACN also has pear trees and remember Asian pears tend to mature much later in the fall and are also more disease resistant.



Asian Pears

Shinseiki - August 20

Kosui - August 23

Hosui - August 28
Shinko - September 10
Niitaka - September 17

Yoinashi - September 20
Tse Li - October 1
Ya Li - October 1

Atago - October 5

Olympic - October 10

European Pears

Clapp's Favorite - August 10

Red Clapps - August 10

Bartlett - August 20

Red Bartlett - August 20

Seckel - August 28

Blake's Pride - September 2

Magness - September 5

Potomac - September 8

Buerre D'Anjou - September 12

Buerre Bosc - September 15



ACN Pear Tree Varieties (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_pear.php)

The Adams Co. folks have been excellent to deal with and a great many on the QDMA site have been very satisfied with ACN service and products.

This link is a month by month guide to caring for and preparing for your fruit trees as well.

Fruit Tree Growing Tips (http://www.acnursery.com/acn_tips.php#)

Of course you can fall plant bare root trees once trees become dormant most likely in November and again as soon as they can be shipped and planted in the spring.

Balled or potted trees can be planted anytime and fall is also a great time to plant and often there are sales at places like Earl May and Menards.

Insecticides and Fungicides
This link contains a number of questions and answers regarding dealing with apple tree pests.
Questions on: Apple Insects (http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/tree/appleinsec.htm)

Quote:
Q: For many years, we have had an abundance of apples with worms in them. This makes the apples inedible. What should we be doing to get rid of the worms? (Mooreton, N.D.)

A: Spray using an insecticide, such as Sevin, at blossom drop and again in 10 to 14 days. Spraying two more times after that should do the trick. You can try pheromone traps, if you can locate them. Put two or three traps in the larger trees. Picking up the apples that drop to the ground in the fall goes a long way in breaking the infestation cycle.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q: I know this might sound stupid but when you say "mock apples" do you mean just any old fake apple or is there something called mock apples that are made for this purpose? I can't imagine why a maggot would get stuck on a plastic apple! (McClusky, N.D.)

A: They do sell apples, plastic or otherwise, that are covered with a tangle-foot type of material. The apples may contain pheromone that attracts the female adult insect. The insects die of dehydration after being trapped. You can also get the sex pheromone traps that attract the males into thinking there is a female within. It’s nasty to the insect but it works and is better than spraying a lot of indiscriminate insecticides.




Protecting Backyard Apple Trees from Apple Maggot (http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1928/EB1928.pdf)

Apple and Pear Insects (http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05519.html)

ISU Apple Insect Control Field Trials (http://www.public.iastate.edu/%7Eappleipm/appleIPMMod/codlingMoth/fieldTrials.html)

Woolly Apple Aphid (http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2208.html)

Quote:
Insecticides used to control woolly apple aphid in commercial orchards are dimethoate (Cygon), endosulfan (Thiodan), chlorpyriphos (Lorsban), or methyl parathion (Penncap-M). Home gardeners can use diazinon or insecticidal soap.

Woolly apple aphid infestations on rootstocks cannot be controlled by insecticides






APPLE SCAB. Many trees in some areas of the state are nearly defoliated. However, some crabapples have suffered little damage, attesting to the value of planting scab resistant cultivars. Apple scab lesions appear as small, irregularly shaped olive green spots, often located along veins in the leaves. Infected leaves will turn yellow and drop from the tree later in the season. It is too late to provide any effective suppression of scab on heavily infested ornamental trees but treatment should continue on bearing apple trees. Fungicides such as Captain and Benlate should be effective (read label for directions).




SpringStar Apple Maggot Traps (http://www.biconet.com/traps/AppleMaggotTrap.html)



APPLE MAGGOTS are probably emerging now and will begin laying their eggs on apple fruit. The "railroad worm," as it is called, is the larva of a small insect that resembles a house-fly but has dark markings on the wings. The adult emerges from the soil and goes off in search of apples. The adult lays an egg just under the skin of the apple. The egg soon hatches into the maggot that feeds inside the apple. Infested apples will typically have a small black speck on the skin of the apple. The apple may also be "dimpled" where the egg has been laid. Small brown streaks will be seen in the flesh of the apple where the maggot has fed. Infested fruit, while unattractive, is still edible but has a much shorter storage life. Sticky red ball traps may be used to monitor for the emergence of the adults.

Begin treatment when five adults have been captured on a sticky ball. Apply protective sprays of malathion, diazinon, Imidan or use a combination orchard spray to reduce infestations. Some people have reported good results by simply using 6 to 8 sticky traps in a few trees in a yard to reduce damage to tolerable levels without using insecticides.




This is a comprehensive list of fruit tree insecticides:

Insecticides - A-Z (http://www.virginiafruit.ento.vt.edu/SprayGuide/treeinsecticides.html)

Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Fruit Plantings (http://ohioline.osu.edu/b780/index.html)

Fruit Tree answers (http://www.bookcliffgardens.com/answercenter/fruit_trees.htm)



The flip side of caring for your apple trees involves spraying. It is extremely important, and necessary if you want to avoid losing your entire crop to these nasty coddling moths. Beginning when the fruit is the size of a marble (and hopefully just after you've thinned them), spray EVERY WEEK TO 10 DAYS without fail until the fruit is ready to be picked. I know it sounds extreme, but this guy is determined and if you miss spraying he'll move right in. Rotating sprays is best. Use Hi-Yield 38 Plus, Sevin, or Spinosad, alternating sprays each time. You don't need to have all three sprays, just choose two and then USE THEM!



Ways to Reduce Pesticide Use (http://www.ncwildlife.org/pg07_wildlifespeciescon/pg7f2b4.htm)

Tree Fruit Production with Organic Farming Methods (http://organic.tfrec.wsu.edu/OrganicIFP/OrganicFruitProduction/OrganicMgt.PDF)

Organic fruit tree care (http://www.arbico-organics.com/fruittreecare.html)

Organic Fruit Tree Sprays (http://www.greenlightco.com/products/_LiquidInsecticides.htm)

Root Feed for fruit Trees (http://www.rootfeed.com/problemsolver/fruit_trees.html)

Fertilizing Fruit Trees (http://extension.unh.edu/Pubs/HGPubs/fertfrt.pdf)

Fertilizing Tree Fruits (http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/index.html#http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/TRA/PLANTS/fruitfert.html)

Fertilizing Apple Trees (http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/apple_fert.htm)

Fertilizer Stakes (http://www.naturehills.com/product/fruit_tree_fertilizer_stakes.aspx)

Assorted Fertilizers (http://www.starnursery.com/products.php?root=2&sub1=24)

[letemgrow]

Here are some pics of what I do at the base of apple trees to keep the girdlers at bay.
I used tree pro's, cut them down in 1/2 after I took them off other trees that had grown out of the tubes.


http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k445/pes1979/Habitat%20Improvements%20on%20the%20farm/TSIonHickories2.jpg

http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k445/pes1979/Habitat%20Improvements%20on%20the%20farm/TSIonHickories1.jpg

[dbltree]

Originally Posted By: JNRBRONC
I just posted these varieties on the other thread that are still holding for me: Gold Rush, Granny Smith and Winesap. I hope you ordered some late maturing varieties.




Geeish..at least I got one right..

Here are some grafting videos:

Grafting Fruit Trees (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EwtyO16dFg)

Fruitwise apple tree grafting, the saddle graft (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UC5Dr3tWDc)

Saddle graft apple tree-5 months after (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7L6XlRUs4yU)

Down To Earth - Grafting Fruit Trees (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jy1Ca8RotRI)

Freedom Tree Farms - Budding and Grafting (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dk2vcYiBz4k)

Fruit tree grafting, budding and more - Benji Woodman-pt1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0uxlwgPsDI)

Fruit tree grafting, budding and more - Benji Woodman-pt2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smWnZsL6NLI)

Fruit tree grafting, budding and more - Benji Woodman-pt3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3Gzl_4mKpA)

I haven't watched all of them yet...so hopefully they are actually about "grafting"...

[dbltree]

I've been told to dilute the paint 50/50 with water before applying.

yes...I forgot to mention that...

I suspect the farther south the worse the problems but I can't say for sure. There are many opinions on all of this "apple" stuff and I am by no means an expert...

White latex paint applied annually to tree trunks helps protect against killing of cambium or bark from sudden temperature changes in late fall and winter. Painting the lower trunk makes it easier to detect insect borer infestation, and may deter them. Addition of rabbit repellent to the paint protects young trees from bark stripping by rabbits during the winter.

To make trunk paint, mix one gallon of white interior latex paint into 4 to 5 quarts of water. Do not use oil-based paint. If needed, add rabbit repellent as per the label directions.

Mix these well, and pour the final mix through a nylon stocking to filter out lumps that would clog the sprayer nozzle. Hand-pump backpack sprayers work well for application.

If protection from rabbits is not needed, omit repellent from the mix and spray only the south half of the trunk and lower scaffolds. It is only the lower parts of the tree exposed to warming by sunlight that need protection of the reflective paint. For best weather resistance, latex paint should be applied during mild (50oF or higher) dry weather.

[letemgrow]

I am going to make sure and keep a 4 foot cirlce killed around the apple trees and use a low screen/tree tube at the base of the apple trees with poison in them for anything that dares to enter. I can tell so far that the lower the tube to the ground the less rodents will use it. I only had one casualty this past winter, to an american chestnut (the best one). I used the tallest tube on it about 2 feet tall while the rest were not touched on 12-18" tubes.

The screen would be the easiest by far though!!!

[dbltree]

Where did you get the aluminum window screen from?? Menards??
Douds Lumber...

They have everything including the kitchen sink!

I suspect Menards might have it cheaper but I'd have to burn 30 bucks worth of fuel to get there and back...

Keeping all the grass/growth away from any tree goes a long way in solving rodent predation problems that's for sure...

2009 Midwest Tree Fruit Spray Guide (http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM1282.pdf)

[dbltree]

My apple and pear trees will be arriving in the next week or two so I took advantage of the very wet soil conditions to get the holes "pre-dug"...;)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/HolesDug.jpg

Ok...so I took advantage of the cheap help too...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Slave.jpg

I have a pile of black dirt I have hauled in and continually add compost too that I will use for fill when the trees arrive. I like to add peat moss and stir it in with my rear tine tiller to make a nice nutrient rich mix that has good moisture retention.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/BlackDirt.jpg

I added pell lime to the soil around the holes and will stir some into top soil "cocktail" as well.

Looking forward to getting them in the ground soon!

[dbltree]

I wanted to amend my clay soil and give my new apple and pear trees a better chance at flourising rather then just surviving so I bought some sphagnum peat moss and tops soil and added it to the black clay loam I had hauled into my compost pile and "stirred it all up good"! :D
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CompostMix.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/S5002147.jpg
Made a nice light loamy, moisture retaining mix to fill in the holes with!
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CompostMix-1.jpg
My Century Farm Orchard trees arrived in early April while I was at work so my son heeled them in and erected a fence around them to keep the rabbits out (did I mention I love my son... ;) )
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/S5002143.jpg

[dbltree]

Shortly therafter we commenced to planting, making sure to keep the graft union above the soil surface

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/GraftUnion.jpg

The "whips" don't look like much right now and I need to "work" on them a bit and will share pics later...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/AppleWhip.jpg

We slipped on the window screen on, stapled it closed and watered each tree.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Screenedandwatered.jpg

and I also stapled the name tags to the screen for now

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/StapledTag.jpg

[dbltree]

Looked something like this when we got done
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Newadditions4-11-09.jpg
We added 10 apple trees and 2 pear trees to our collection and three more asian pears have yet to arrive. These trees are in my yard but keep in mind that every deer traveling across our farm does so within "yards" of our yard...so why drag the trees to the back 40? ;)

[Sligh1]

What you all prefer for mulching? Do you get a load of bark?
*I had done one method that was NOT recommended but had great success- old hay bales- I layered the areas around tree (killed with round-up) with hay and it ended up laying flat as a pancake later. NOT recommended because of mice and rabbits and all that finding homes BUT in this instance, I was in a hurry and thought I'd try it (a few years ago).
I'll FOR SURE be doing that screen stappling, maybe if I do that I could do the free hay again since I am doing the screens BUT what's your thoughts and advice on how you approach any kind of mulching??

**Also, I sprayed some Oust on some trees a couple years ago, the forester friend had mixed it and it may have been too strong and I made the mistake of spraying around fresh planted apple trees- DEAD as can be in about a month (yes, that is what did it, not a disease or other chemicals in sprayer- been through it all). Just in case, just to be safe, don't make my mistake- just use round-up and mulch those babies!

[dbltree]

The safest mulch is crushed limestone or almost any kind of small stone such as the decorative stone you buy in bags at Wally Mart. Limestone of course is cheaper but this elminates the mice and such burrowing under the mulch.

Certainly any kind of typical wood mulch or old hay will hold down weeds and conserve moisture but be careful not to let it get to close to the tree trunk as it also is a great place for all kinds of bugs that like both mulch and apple trees...;)

I like to use a combination of limestone around the trunk and I kind of bury the window screen into it and then wood mulch a foot or so away in as big a radius as one wants.

Oust is potent stuff!! I think it might be fine at low doses around estabilished trees but mulch is the safest or a herbicide like Surflan which is a very safe residual. Thanks for the warning about the Oust Skip...:)

[letemgrow]

looking good Paul!!!! A couple of the century farm apple trees that I planted last fall already had blooms on them!!! The Hughes had over 20 so I plucked them off so the tree puts on more growth instead of apples this young.

[Sligh1]

Where do you buy the stone at a cost effective price?
*I have about 140 apple and pear trees. Thanks!!!

[dbltree]

Where do you buy the stone at a cost effective price?
*I have about 140 apple and pear trees. Thanks!!!

Douds Stone...I usually use the 3/4 stone but I reckon it doesn't matter 1" on down.

You can take a pickup or trailer down or have a load hauled in.

Call Perry Louth RPS trucking 319-498-4224

or

Douds Stone 641-936-4331 ...most likely talk to Vicki Smith and just ask which quarry to go to.

They have pea rock at the sand quarry at Eldon for instance and limestone in all sizes at the other quarrys. You just pull on the scale and weigh you truck/trailer, go load up and then re-weigh and pay.


or call Perry and he'll send you a bill...;)

[Sligh1]

Any of you ever try those black roll out matting that is used like a mulch- sometimes folks mulch over the black mats.

I have a few apple trees it's going to be really far and hard to get stone, etc back there. What's your opinion/experiences of only putting down the black matting and staking it down- mine would be BEHIND a giant 8' fence so nothing could mess the mats up. What do you think of the mats, staking them down and using those only in this instance??

[letemgrow]

Skip,

I would think the black matting may encourage rodents to hang out there personally. In that situation I would just spray with roundup and keep the area open.

[dbltree]

Skip,

I would think the black matting may encourage rodents to hang out there personally. In that situation I would just spray with roundup and keep the area open.

That's what I'm thinking but if you use the alum. screen and make sure it is tight to the ground to keep mice away from the trunk it might work just fine.

Might actually "pin" the screen to the ground if need be...;)

[Sligh1]

On a rare occasion, I slacked off when it came to fertilizing and liming my apple trees this spring. I usually always have time and make it a priority BUT oh well I guess. You all feel it's still ok to put some fertilizer & lime around the drip lines or do you worry it's too late for any reason?

[dbltree]

On a rare occasion, I slacked off when it came to fertilizing and liming my apple trees this spring. I usually always have time and make it a priority BUT oh well I guess. You all feel it's still ok to put some fertilizer & lime around the drip lines or do you worry it's too late for any reason?

Not aware of any reason Skip...giterdone! :D

[kurtish]

I ordered 5 apple trees from cummins nursery this spring and figured I'd give an update on how they are doing. I ordered 3 Florina querina, 1 enterprise, and 1 goldrush. The size Florinas that I paid for weren't available so they sent an extra 3 zestar to compensate for the difference. The trees arrived in good shape and I was able to get them in the ground 2 days after they showed up.

Here's a pic of one of the Florinas after I did some leader competition removal.
http://iowawhitetail.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=157&pictureid=1360

With the added trees that I hadn't expected, I didn't have enough fencing to protect them all. Here is a prime example of why you need to fence your apple trees....even in low deer density areas like where my property is located. Not a single leaf left above the window screeening.
http://iowawhitetail.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=157&pictureid=1361

Liberty and the welded wire fencing that I used for caging. I used 20' sections of 5' high 2x4 welded wire. My newly finished home (except for the landscaping) overlooks what will hopefully be a deer magnet of an orchard a few years down the road.
http://iowawhitetail.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=157&pictureid=1362

Over the winter I found quite a few volunteer apple trees on my property and did a fair amount of corrective pruning along with opening up competeing canopies to help them produce mast. Here is one that had a large boxelder growing on the south side of it.
http://iowawhitetail.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=157&pictureid=1366

It won't have a bumper crop this year but it is going to produce
http://iowawhitetail.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=157&pictureid=1365

I still haven't found time to get the trees mulched and I had better get on it quick because the grass is growing like wildfire with all of the moisture we have had in the last couple of weeks.

[dbltree]

Looks good! You have a beautiful home as well! :way:

[Sligh1]

Awesome! That hard work will pay off big time in just a few years! One thing MAYBE to be careful of: I put fencing with ONE pole around some trees about 5 years back- the bucks got all filled with testosterone, ripped every single cage right out of the ground with antlers and turned every single tree into a clean toothpick by rubbing them to death! Maybe you'll be ok and maybe deer on my land are just grumpier! :) Just wanted to pass on my experience.
Great stuff and you picked some nice trees to plant!

[dbltree]

Awesome! That hard work will pay off big time in just a few years! One thing MAYBE to be careful of: I put fencing with ONE pole around some trees about 5 years back- the bucks got all filled with testosterone, ripped every single cage right out of the ground with antlers and turned every single tree into a clean toothpick by rubbing them to death! Maybe you'll be ok and maybe deer on my land are just grumpier! :) Just wanted to pass on my experience.
Great stuff and you picked some nice trees to plant!

I've had the exact same thing happen Skip, even with two posts! Dang things go on a rampage every fall and by golly you better have some serious fencing and posts or they'll tear fencing and trees all to pieces!

[Sligh1]

Yeah, personally I'd do 3-4 big old T fence posts that you pound into the ground and wire them to the cage super tight! :) Deer are tough dudes and love a challenge!!!

[Daver]

I've had the exact same thing happen Skip, even with two posts! Dang things go on a rampage every fall and by golly you better have some serious fencing and posts or they'll tear fencing and trees all to pieces!

I have 7 apple trees planted AND fenced this time around, actually all were planted last year but since 3 ended up deader than a doornail I replanted those this spring. I have 2 fence posts per cage and the cages are attached to the fence posts, but after reading this I am wondering if I have a sturdy enough setup.

I actually have added fencing to the top to keep them from picking the higher leaves off, and while the cages are fairly sturdy, a testosterone fueled buck might just wreck 'em anyway. Then I would be upset! :)

Should I go back and add a 3rd stake and really wire them to the stakes strongly?

[LoessHillsArcher]

This spring we picked up 6 apple trees from Bomgars. 1 Winesap, 2 Honeycrisp, 1 Red Delicious, 1 Empire, and 1 Johnathan. They were bigger trees and in 3.5 gallon pots. I tried tying some of the branches to give them better crotch angles and grow a little more horizontally...let me know what can be done to help these little guys out. Also we added some lime and 10-10-10 fertilizer around the soil and watered it in.

The first one was the Winesap, probably the best of the trees. I tied a few of the larger branches to start the first layer of the tree "pyramid" shape I guess you could call it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/iowadeerhunter/100_1628.jpg

The only thing the I'm unsure of on this tree is what will take over as the main leader branch. There was one there but they cut it off...then the other branch is really starting to split off a lot and has a nasty scar on it. Not sure what to do, probably going to wait and see?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/iowadeerhunter/100_1629.jpg

The two Honeycrisp..well lets just pray they even live. Between the transplanting, and 2 days of 40-50 mph winds and hot days they look a little dry and crisp..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/iowadeerhunter/100_1634.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/iowadeerhunter/100_1631.jpg

The Red Delicious was a touch smaller tree and had a ton of branches. I tied a few again hoping to get some better crotch angles and there were 4 different ones competing for the main leader. I didn't bother pruning yet...thought I read somewhere to wait until the tree is dormant? But I'm thinking about taking the smallest of the four beings it doesn't have the "joint" like the other three. Thoughts?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/iowadeerhunter/100_1632.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/iowadeerhunter/100_1633.jpg

The Johnathan was a nice big looking tree. It had three larger branches that all reached nearly straight up. I tried to tie them down but they were just getting too big to work with and at too severe of an angle. I tied one off and the other broke with little effort...hope it doesn't kill the tree but we'll see. I cut the branch off so the weight didn't pull the tear down the bark any more.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/iowadeerhunter/100_1635.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/iowadeerhunter/100_1636.jpg

When it was all said and done we did all we could and hope for the best. Still got a lot to learn about for pruning and training them. We put them infront of one of our hunting blinds...should make for a nice youth season or early ML season some day if all goes to plan. I was able to gather up 2 old bales of fence and go two sections high to make about a 5 1/2 ft. tall fence. Hope the deer aren't too energetic to jump it. One thing we learned right away about tying trees for training is that once the larger branches get to growing prior to training their crotch angle is impossible to adjust. That is how I ended up breaking that branch off, probably not a good deal. Oh well, we got them in full sun and we'll check on them throughout the summer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/iowadeerhunter/100_1623.jpg

[kurtish]

Thanks for the advise Sligh and Dbl. I'll have to get them secured well when I get some mulch on them. I hadn't figured that the deer would raise much heck with them.

LoessHillsArcher, I can't see your pictures due to the web blocker here at work but it sounds like you have a good plan with the training that you are doing. One suggestion would be to take out them competeing leaders as soon as possible. Competeing leaders make for weak crotch angles and major structure problems down the road. They are also robbing the rest of the tree of energy that should all be going towards the strongest leader. I know that there are some really good links in this thread that will help you to select the best leader for the tree's health. Best of luck with your trees. I hope them Honeycrisp make it for you....won't find a better tasting apple.

[LoessHillsArcher]

I remember reading and watching all the info. dbltree posted and the reccomended only pruning 1/3 or less of the tree at a time. I also thought they said prune when the trees are dormant? When do you guys prune your apple trees?

[JNRBRONC]

Some old timer's said the best time to prune was when the knife was sharp. Most will suggest that you prune when the trees are dormant. I try to prune in January, that way I get a good look at the branches (no leaves) and I can take out any branches damaged by excess fruit set.

I've seen a couple of pruning philosophies mentioned here: keep a central leader, cut the central leader, etc. I don't think there is a "right" strategy as it depends on what you want to accomplish. What I try to do when I'm pruning (which isn't often or radical enough) is to open up the middle of the tree to let the sun shine down into it. If a branch starts off the trunk above a lower branch, one of them needs to go! I like the way LoessHillsArchers' trees look with the central leader missing and branches coming up in an almost radial, spoke like fashion. On those trees, I would recommend cutting out any new branches that started to come straight up off of them. Also, next January, my thought would be to prune the tips of those branches back to where a bud comes off the bottom of the branch. That bud will break dormancy and take off, forcing those branches to keep their low, out sweeping growth.

It's not like I'm an expert on pruning though, a quick walk through my orchard would convince you of that! :grin: I guess I could say that I'm experimenting with different pruning strategies (and sometimes lack thereof).:D

[dbltree]

I would just add that the first couple years we want to encourage central leader growth, especially on whips, by removing competing leaders. Jordans trees are beyond whips and can most likely be "pruned" to open up the tree as Randy mentions. :)

[Sligh1]

Jordan, how high is that fence? If it's a standard 4' (or even 6') I am really worried they will EASILY hop over it and kill your trees. If it was 4-6', I know they wouldn't last one year on my land and every single one would be dead (i double up to make it at least 8'). Sorry for throwing my 2 cents in, just noticed from photo and don't want all your trees to be trashed to death in no time. :)

*oh, I just noticed you doubled it up on fence, 8' right?

[LoessHillsArcher]

Its a solid 6' tall, one small spot the fence sags and is about 5.5'. I couldn't stretch it tight and tie it to the post at the same time in that spot to save my life! They've been up for about a month and so far it has held up, we know a couple spots we can get a spare roll or 10 of old woven fence!

Also the fence is at least 7' away from each tree on all sides of them, the pics look a bit decieving. Looks like we need to invest in a new pruning sheers!

[Sligh1]

Here's my apple tree fence (from pictures i took about 2 years ago).
I had another fence with a low spot in it, I went in there and there were always deer tracks in there (not good!). I raised that low spot (just put another layer of fence). I think my fence is about 9' right now with a few spots being 8'. On my land, if the fence was too low, all my trees would be done :( BUT- that would not happen until maybe October/November I would guess. In the mean-time, all that would happen is they would nip the heck out of all the leaves. That's why I turned this fence into a prison! :) ....

*You can triple up on fence, if the top half of the 3rd layer is not nailed to anything, that's ok- say your poles weren't long enough. I always stand on the truck with the help of a few guys to get that fence up there.

http://www.thedeerhunt.com/AppleTrees&Fence.JPG
http://www.thedeerhunt.com/AppleTrees2.JPG

[SaskGuy]

I've found in terms of fence, if you can't get it high enough, you can always throw another one up just a couple feet further out, they won't jump it b/c there's no room between the fences for them. It works in my garden on peas.

I also like to prune my apple trees while they're dormant for the same reason as Randy.

[JNRBRONC]

Help me, Brothers, as I am weak! :grin:

They are starting clearance on apple trees at the stores in town and I'm getting in the haggling mood. You'd be surprised what you can talk them down to at this time of year.;) Probably add a few more apple trees to the mix tonight.

[dbltree]

Probably add a few more apple trees to the mix tonight. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

It does get kind of addicting...;)

[chokepoint]

I haven't read through all of this thread but I skimmed it for references to Kazak apples and didn't see any. I read about Kazak apples in M. Pollan's book ' The Botany of Desire'. Well worth reading. It describes how apples are our most genetically limited crop and require huge inputs of pesticide to grow commercial apples. Therefore if you are looking to use apples for wildlife you may want to consider using Kazak apples as an alternative. It would aid in getting new genes into current "native" wild apples and help the research as well. Here is a response from Forsline below that may be of interest.


Here is the form letter re your request for seeds. I will wait to hear from you to confirm your interest in receiving seeds....Phil

Philip L. Forsline
Research Leader/Location Coordinator
Horticulturist/Curator for Fruit Crops
USDA, ARS, Plant Genetic Resources Unit
630 W. North Street
Geneva, NY 14456-0462
Phone: 315-787-2390, FAX: -2339
Cell: 315-521-9933
e-mail: Philip.Forsline@ars.usda.gov

http://www.ars.usda.gov/main/site_main.htm?modecode=19100500



Thank you for your email(letter) re the discussion of Kazak apples in M. Pollan's book ' The Botany of Desire'. I am enclosing via an e-mail format, a generic letter that I send to people with inquiries about our program. Re Kazak apple seeds/trees, we do not have trees available to send out. We can send a small seed lot that you will need to germinate (see the section at the end of this message from our Procedures manual on how that is done). Original seed from Kazakstan is reserved for use by scientists doing genetic research. However I can supply open-pollinated (O.P.) seed from our grow-outs which are in a somewhat isolated area and these would be a blend of all genes from many sites in Kazakstan. This site contains over 1000 trees of Malus sieversii and most of those trees will have fruited by fall 2007.

I have been receiving many requests like yours: This is how I have handled each request:
Fruits from the grow-out site were collected in fall 2001, 2002, and 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and we extracted seeds. I have sent about 100 seeds per requester (open-pollinated) from at least 4 different mother trees that represent diverse ecosystems in Kazakstan, to over 250 requesters like yourself. With the new season (2007), we will collect additional seeds from the Kazakh apples. Therefore, for those requests coming in now through 2007 and early 2008, this is what I recommend: From the pool of seed that we collect in fall 2007 from this same site, I will start filling requests for more of the open-pollinated Kazakhstan apple seed. We will start sending seed orders toward the end of October, 2007. You will need to stratify the seeds for 3-4 months (see procedure below): Start the stratification process in November/December 2007; start seedlings indoors in early spring, and plant in the field Spring 2008.

If you are interested, I will send your order in fall/winter 2006/2007. Please contact me if you are interested in the above scenario. I will need your mailing address.

Sincerely,

Phil Forsline

Guidelines for Malus Seed Germination

1) Wash and disinfect all containers to be used for chilling or germination and disinfect the working surface on which the seeds are handled.

2) Soak individual seed lots in separate containers, for a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 48 hours in regular tap water. Start the soak in the a.m.; Change the water every 2-3 hours to remove any possible growth inhibitors. You will not need to change water for the overnight soak. Label containers with appropriate identification and handle carefully to avoid misidentification.

3) Distribute seed evenly on saturated but not dripping wet blotter paper or paper towels, shake off any excess water. Place germination containers in the dark at 1.5oC (34oF) (regular kitchen refrigerator works fine at 38°F to 42°F) for a minimum of 90 days. Check on seeds once a week, changing paper every two weeks.

4) As needed, surface disinfect each seed lot in 10% chlorox for two minutes, followed by a thorough rinse in running tap water. After 60 or more days, the radicle (white root that starts to emerge from the base of the seed) begins to emerge; then discontinue the use of all surface disinfectants so as not to burn the root-tip.

5) Therefore after about 60-110 days of chilling as you see a few of the seeds in each seed lot showing radicles, place seeds at 10oC (50oF) (or cool room ~ 60oF is fine) for 2-5 days to promote full germination of the seed lot. If some of the seed still appears viable continue to hold the seed at 100C until you see radicle emerge and then plant.

6) When radicles have emerged, carefully plant pre-germinated seed in 4" plastic pots with Cornell mix (commercial potting mix). When planting the seeds with the white radicles, take extra care in not damaging the young radicle (1st root) tip. Grow seedling to 6-7 true leaves and transplant to nursery.

[JNRBRONC]

Ok, you made me look. I found this article on Kazak apples. (http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan06/apples0106.htm)

[dbltree]

Ok, you made me look. I found this article on Kazak apples. (http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan06/apples0106.htm)


Very interesting stuff right there! Never heard of it before but that's the great thing about these forums...one never stops learning! :way:

[dbltree]

I noticed even here by the house that deer have started hitting the new growth on the apple trees

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/NippedBranches.jpg

So I got busy and started fencing them and this setup cost about $12 bucks a tree buying 5 ft posts and 4' wire from Menards. Posts were $2.50 a piece and a 50' roll of wire was $22 and does about 5 trees.

We just lift the wire up off the ground since the bottome is protected by the window screen

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/AppletreeCage.jpg

I noticed the Goldrush Trees are really infected with Cedar Apple Rust

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/Sickleaves.jpg

Cedar Apple Rust (http://www.uri.edu/ce/ceec/ppyarddiseases.html)

Cedar Apple Rust is a common fungal disease that requires two hosts: eastern red cedars or junipers, and apple or crabapple trees. On crabapple or apple trees, the disease manifests as small, yellowish-orange spots which appear on leaves in the spring. These spots continue to enlarge and turn more orange, often with a red border. The fungus grows through the leaf, and fringe-like structures arranged in a ring appear on the underside of the leaf in midsummer. These structures produce spores, which are infectious to junipers. Junipers and cedars become infected in late summer or autumn. Galls form on the branches, growing from a combination of plant and fungus tissue. During spring rains, the galls swell and form bright orange horn-like projections. Despite the dramatic appearance, damage to junipers is generally mild though some twig dieback may occur.

Cedar Apple Rust on crabapples and apples is unsightly and may result in defoliation. However, it will not kill the tree. The most effective means of controlling rust is to plant cultivars with proven resistance to the disease


Goldrush from ACN

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/GoldrushApple.jpg

and from Century Farms

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/NewGoldrush.jpg

Both were infected

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/Sickleaves2.jpg

Autumn Rose

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/AutumRose.jpg

and

Enterprise

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/Enterprise.jpg

appear to be healthy happy trees!

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/HealthyTree.jpg

Just some observations from the Doubltree... ;)

[Joey Rott]

I thought I'd make a post on a couple fruit tree's I had. I planted these 2 in Spring 08, and late last summer the grasshoppers where tough on many of my trees, and ended up killing quite a few. Being that roots were alive, they re-sprouted this spring, and now I have several stems. I planned on trimming these tree's up this fall or early Spring during dormancy, but thought i'd post some pics here for recommendations.. from guys who actually know what they're doing LOL.

The 1st tree is a Pear. One steam is a perfectly straight 5ft steam with pretty much nothing for branches. The other stem broke in early-mid summer so it shot branches out pretty low, and now has a dominant central leader. Here are a couple pics. Which one would you choose to keep... the perfectly straight one, or the one that's slightly crooked with big branches starting already.

Straight Stem (Pear)

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m201/kshunter01/DSC_0015.jpg


Branched Steam (Pear)

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m201/kshunter01/DSC_0013.jpg


This Tree is a Peach i'm pretty sure. 3 Stems @ 4-5ft. 1 is really straight but smaller than the other 2. I would assume it'd be best to cut 2 down and leave one... in the long run for better quality fruit production and for single steam strength.

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m201/kshunter01/DSC_0011.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m201/kshunter01/DSC_0012.jpg

[dbltree]

You can just cut off the dead part Joey but where it has sprouted from the root, below the graft it will not be the tree you expected.

Most fruit trees are grafted to a rootstock that is nothing at all like the grafted portion.

I'm not sure what they use on the pears? You don't have much to lose by trimming away the dead stuff and see what happens but maybe someone else will have other thoughts?

[Joey Rott]

Good info Paul. Yeah, I was planning on cutting the dead pear out of there. I cut the peach out already. I wish I knew more about these tree's. I purchased them last year from Orschelins cheap, in pots. I considered them a loss, and was about to dig them up to put new ones in, when I saw the new growth coming up & decided to leave them & see what happen. Now they're 5ft tall.

Fortunately the hoppers haven't been too bad this year. Only 3 of the 7 fruit trees made it alright through last year. They ate the bark right off the tree...along with most of the leaves.

[dbltree]

Fortunately the hoppers haven't been too bad this year. Only 3 of the 7 fruit trees made it alright through last year. They ate the bark right off the tree...along with most of the leaves.

I wonder if you couldn't use some type of screen or netting over the trees until they get older (during "hopper" season) to help protect them?

[Sligh1]

Keep those trees alive! Even if you have the JUNK rootstock trees- start grafting in desirable trees on to the root stock that resprouted. Yes, if you let the root-stock tree you NOW have go- you'd likely have JUNK for fruit BUT it's easy to take ANY type of apple you want (cut off a tree you like) and graft on the junk tree that is doing well. Let me know if you don't understand what i am saying. Good luck!

[dbltree]

Keep those trees alive! Even if you have the JUNK rootstock trees- start grafting in desirable trees on to the root stock that resprouted. Yes, if you let the root-stock tree you NOW have go- you'd likely have JUNK for fruit BUT it's easy to take ANY type of apple you want (cut off a tree you like) and graft on the junk tree that is doing well. Let me know if you don't understand what i am saying. Good luck!

Makes perfect sense to me...too bad I don't know how to graft anything:D

One thing for sure your not going to kill the rootstock while attempting the grafts so it would be a good place to practice...;)

[letemgrow]

Paul,

What I did on that fencing I used like you just bought from Menards, was turn it upside down. Then the smaller squared parts are more at the browse line of deer and the bigger squared parts are towards the bottom where there is nothing for them to get to anyways. I figure on my place it would only be a matter of time before they would be reaching through the bigger squared parts and tearing stuff up. :D

[dbltree]

I'm getting ready to start the stratification process with the Kazak apple seeds which is as follows:

Guidelines for Malus Seed Germination

1) Wash and disinfect all containers to be used for chilling or germination and disinfect the working surface on which the seeds are handled.

2) Soak individual seed lots in separate containers, for a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 48 hours in regular tap water. Start the soak in the a.m.; Change the water every 2-3 hours to remove any possible growth inhibitors. You will not need to change water for the overnight soak. Label containers with appropriate identification and handle carefully to avoid misidentification.

3) Distribute seed evenly on saturated but not dripping wet blotter paper or paper towels, shake off any excess water. Place germination containers in the dark at 1.5oC (34oF) (regular kitchen refrigerator works fine at 38°F to 42°F) for a minimum of 90 days. Check on seeds once a week, changing paper every two weeks.

4) As needed, surface disinfect each seed lot in 10% chlorox for two minutes, followed by a thorough rinse in running tap water. After 60 or more days, the radicle (white root that starts to emerge from the base of the seed) begins to emerge; then discontinue the use of all surface disinfectants so as not to burn the root-tip.

5) Therefore after about 60-110 days of chilling as you see a few of the seeds in each seed lot showing radicles, place seeds at 10oC (50oF) (or cool room ~ 60oF is fine) for 2-5 days to promote full germination of the seed lot. If some of the seed still appears viable continue to hold the seed at 100C until you see radicle emerge and then plant.

6) When radicles have emerged, carefully plant pre-germinated seed in 4" plastic pots with Cornell mix (commercial potting mix). When planting the seeds with the white radicles, take extra care in not damaging the young radicle (1st root) tip. Grow seedling to 6-7 true leaves and transplant to nursery. <!-- / message -->

I'll keep posting the different steps as I go along...something new and different for me but interesting just the same!

Here is an article on the Kazak apple trees and the reasons for attempting to spread the genes around the country.

Remarkable Kazak Apples (http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan06/apples0106.htm)

[dbltree]

1) Wash and disinfect all containers to be used for chilling or germination and disinfect the working surface on which the seeds are handled.


I purchased some small containers with lids and then marked the containers and the envelopes that have the genetic information listed for each of the four Kazak Apples we received. I ran them through the dishwasher to disinfect them even though brand new.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Kazakprep1.jpg

2) Soak individual seed lots in separate containers, for a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 48 hours in regular tap water. Start the soak in the a.m.; Change the water every 2-3 hours to remove any possible growth inhibitors. You will not need to change water for the overnight soak. Label containers with appropriate identification and handle carefully to avoid misidentification.


I then soaked the seeds, changing the water several times but eventually leaving them to saok over night.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Kazakprep2.jpg

By morning they water was discolored from the softened seeds...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Kazakprep4.jpg

I rinsed the seeds, washed and dried the containers and then proceeded to the next step

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Kazakprep3.jpg

3) Distribute seed evenly on saturated but not dripping wet blotter paper or paper towels, shake off any excess water. Place germination containers in the dark at 1.5oC (34oF) (regular kitchen refrigerator works fine at 38°F to 42°F) for a minimum of 90 days. Check on seeds once a week, changing paper every two weeks.


I made sure the paper towel was damp but not soaking wet and placed the seeds back in the containers

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Kazakprep5.jpg

Reattached the lids and placed them back in the fridge

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Kazakprep6.jpg

I'll check them and change the paper towels and disinfect as as noted in the next step..

4) As needed, surface disinfect each seed lot in 10% chlorox for two minutes, followed by a thorough rinse in running tap water. After 60 or more days, the radicle (white root that starts to emerge from the base of the seed) begins to emerge; then discontinue the use of all surface disinfectants so as not to burn the root-tip.


After they have gone thru the stratification process (much the same as happens naturally in the wild) then I will plant the seeds in pots and get them started indoors... 8-)

[Nontypcl1]

I'm looking for someone in central iowa who might want to pool together an order of apple trees. I would like to order asap. If you are interested send me a PM.

[letemgrow]

I'm looking for someone in central iowa who might want to pool together an order of apple trees. I would like to order asap. If you are interested send me a PM.


Definitely check out Adams County Nursery as they have really good price breaks for that many apple trees.

You can get the best they have to offer for 13.75 a tree for 25-99 trees which are 1/2 inch or bigger and feathered. :way:

[Nontypcl1]

Definitely check out Adams County Nursery as they have really good price breaks for that many apple trees.

That's where I've been looking at ordering from. They seem to have the best supply right now as well.

[letemgrow]

That's where I've been looking at ordering from. They seem to have the best supply right now as well.


I was very impressed with the apple trees I ordered from them and also Century Farms Orchard. Another great place to check out. :way:

[dbltree]

Just dont wait to order from ACN because they will begin to sell out rapidly this time of year, especially late ripening varieties.

Burnt Ridge is another nursery with great prices and good stock if you don't find someone to pool an order.

Most of their trees at $15-16 with no minimum order making them a reasonable option for smaller orders.

Burnt Ridge Nursery (http://www.burntridgenursery.com/fruitingPlants/index_product.asp?dept=12&parent=7)

We ordered Asian pears from them last year and they did very well...:way:

[whitetail fanatic]

I've read before about getting apple trees on clearance at the end of the season at stores with garden centers like Wal Mart for example. What time of year does this usually happen and what kind of deals can we expect? Also, is the quality of their apple trees decent? I'm guessing this would be late May to early June when they go on clearance?

[dbltree]

I've read before about getting apple trees on clearance at the end of the season at stores with garden centers like Wal Mart for example. What time of year does this usually happen and what kind of deals can we expect? Also, is the quality of their apple trees decent? I'm guessing this would be late May to early June when they go on clearance?

Sometimes it's the end of summer for root balled or container trees but fall can be a great time to plant any trees including apple and pears.

I bought a couple 8 ft apple trees last summer and so far they are doing fine. Paid $12 a piece which of course you can buy them for that from nurseries but they won't be 8' high either!

Assuming they are on a good rootstock the tree itself should be just as good as anyones tree and many of us can't resist the opportunity to plant another tree or two at a reasonable price...:way:

[HannibalBowhunter]

I noticed that alot of your fruit trees are caged and tubed. What is the reason? I am planting my first few apple trees this year and was planning to cage them. Do I need to tube them as well?

[letemgrow]

I noticed that alot of your fruit trees are caged and tubed. What is the reason? I am planting my first few apple trees this year and was planning to cage them. Do I need to tube them as well?


MIce and rabbits love apple trees and they will girlde the tree if they are not caged/tubed properly to avoid them. Use pea gravel around the bases of the trees to keep vegetation away and use windown screening about 2 feet tall in case a bunch of snow comes in cause the varmits can walk on top and girlde the trees then. I like to just spray roundup in a 4 foot cirlce to keep bare dirt and use tree tubes instead of screening since I already had them available.

http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k445/pes1979/Trees%20on%20the%20Farm/Farm%20Trip%2006-06-09/FarmTrip06-06018.jpg

[Sligh1]

I find it easy to build a massive fence around my orchard. I have one that's 50 trees- I put a full fence up for $50 because I grabbed old fence around farm and cut trees for poles- took me 3 hours to build it. I mulch around tree and cover trunk for rabbits/mice. Just another option....
http://www.thedeerhunt.com/images/WHEN-PLANTED-APPLES-2006--2nd-orchardlarge.jpg

[dbltree]

Do I need to tube them as well?

as Phil mentioned...use window screening because apple moths love to get behind tubes and lay eggs and then you end up with a dead tree.

The window screen can be stapled shut right up tight to the trunk to keep both bugs and rodents out yet as the tree grows the staples will just pop out so no worries about it being too tight.

Deer will both browse on and rub apple trees and can kill a bunch of them over night...I have a friend who found that out the hard way.

I use this system but there are plenty of options...:)

http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/dbltree2000/Apples%20and%20Pears/AppletreeCage.jpg

[letemgrow]

as Phil mentioned...use window screening because apple moths love to get behind tubes and lay eggs and then you end up with a dead tree.

I had better check the tubes and spray the Bonide on them then. :way:

[dbltree]

I went ahead and planted some of Kazak apple seeds (in pots) because some had sprouted in the fridge but really they should go to step 5 and i'm not sure how to accomplish that temp (50 degrees)??

I may try storing some in the garage and see if that spurs germination?

Guidelines for Malus Seed Germination

1) Wash and disinfect all containers to be used for chilling or germination and disinfect the working surface on which the seeds are handled.

2) Soak individual seed lots in separate containers, for a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 48 hours in regular tap water. Start the soak in the a.m.; Change the water every 2-3 hours to remove any possible growth inhibitors. You will not need to change water for the overnight soak. Label containers with appropriate identification and handle carefully to avoid misidentification.

3) Distribute seed evenly on saturated but not dripping wet blotter paper or paper towels, shake off any excess water. Place germination containers in the dark at 1.5oC (34oF) (regular kitchen refrigerator works fine at 38°F to 42°F) for a minimum of 90 days. Check on seeds once a week, changing paper every two weeks.

4) As needed, surface disinfect each seed lot in 10% chlorox for two minutes, followed by a thorough rinse in running tap water. After 60 or more days, the radicle (white root that starts to emerge from the base of the seed) begins to emerge; then discontinue the use of all surface disinfectants so as not to burn the root-tip.

5) Therefore after about 60-110 days of chilling as you see a few of the seeds in each seed lot showing radicles, place seeds at 10oC (50oF) (or cool room ~ 60oF is fine) for 2-5 days to promote full germination of the seed lot. If some of the seed still appears viable continue to hold the seed at 100C until you see radicle emerge and then plant.

6) When radicles have emerged, carefully plant pre-germinated seed in 4" plastic pots with Cornell mix (commercial potting mix). When planting the seeds with the white radicles, take extra care in not damaging the young radicle (1st root) tip. Grow seedling to 6-7 true leaves and transplant to nursery.

[Sligh1]

Apple trees were $12.99 at TRACTOR SUPPLY today in Ankeny. Some were big, some were smaller (3-5' was the range). Ankeny had maybe 5-8 varieties. I always buy large quantities from nurseries BUT I just thought if there were some guys who wanted to plant a few and weren't picky on variety, this could be a good way to get some.

[Salkeela]

Hello dbltree - I too have a batch of Kazak apple pips on the go.

(1st post here & I'm not an Iowan nor have I ever seen a whitetail! I joined because a google search brought up some-one with these apple pips..... :) Hope you don't mind that I'm just here for that reason! :drink2:)

Anyway back to apples.......

Mine started to germinate in the fridge, and then when I brought the dishes to a cool room temp (we have a N facing unheated corridor in the house that I used) most of the rest germinated too.

I put them in small pots to start with and left them on windowsills down this corridor until several had seed leaves up. Then I moved them to an unheated greenhouse.

Most of them now have 3 true leaves, and I have potted them up into 6" pots and put them outside in a sheltered position. Remarkably I have 81 in total!

I have a bit of space here and so am hoping to create my own wild orchard...... ( I'm in N.Ireland.)

Hope your seedlings are progressing well. I wonder how many others worldwide have taken up this offer and are also planning wild apple forests.....

Sal

PS I love all the pics on this forum. So different to Ireland! ;)

[Salkeela]

Adding another post to activate the email alert feature..... ;)

[letemgrow]

Glad to have ya here Salkeela!!!

Post up any and all good info you have on growing apple trees cause we are all here to learn.

[dbltree]

Glad to have ya here Salkeela!!!

Post up any and all good info you have on growing apple trees cause we are all here to learn.

I'll second Phil's thoughts Sally! Keep us posted on the progress of your Kazaks and share some pics from Ireland too! :way:

[Salkeela]

Thanks for the welcome.

I have about 80 apple seedlings now from the ones sent as pips. I was very pleased with this but suspect I will loose a few more before they are established!

I emailed back and asked about nursery beds etc. and got this advice for bringing these pips on:

I would put the seedlings in a nursery setting for 1-2 growing seasons
depending on how well they grow the first year. The planting distance in
the nursery should be 14"-16" apart. The final orchard spacing can be
12'-15' between trees and 15'-20' between rows. As far as pruning there are
many books on the subject. You would treat them just like you would any
grafted tree, but just remember they will be large full size trees, not
dwarf trees. As far as selecting for flavor that would be a personal
choice. If left unsprayed , you could observe what is resistant and would
is susceptible. Good luck,

So mine are in 6" potsfor now and I will put them in a nursery bed in due course - then hopefully transfer them onwards early in 2012 or so? Well that's a plan anyway.

Up to now I have always put cardboard down around the base of my newly planted trees to keep back the grass. This is replaced every year for several years and I also use horsemanure to weight the card down and eventually it rots down and feeds the trees.... or so the plan goes! I may have to seek extra card boxes for this lot!

I hope eventually to dabble in a bit of apple breeding - perhaps crossing local heirloom varieties with some Kazak apples to see what I get. Probably nothing of any value, but at least the orchard I leave behind will have the genetic variety that may be useful in the future.....

This is the area I hope to plant with apple trees:
(Pigs are now in the freezer - & yes that was "the day" they were moved there!)

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i4/salpublicphotos/Farm/DSCF4744.jpg

And these are the bees that will keep them pollinated: :)
(We just started with bees last year... so no honey yet.... )

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i4/salpublicphotos/Farm/DSCF4952.jpg

That's me on the left ..... :lol:

I'm lucky (or unlucky perhaps) not to have deer that will sabotage young trees.

I look forward to hearing more about your progress with these seedlings as time progresses....

Sal

[dbltree]

Thanks for sharing your pictures and plans Salley! :way:

So far only one seed has germinated from the first batch and none from the second batch?

Here's the one that did sprout...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Tree%20Planting/Acorns/CIMG0901.jpg

I started the second batch in a 32 cell Rootmaker tray

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Tree%20Planting/Acorns/CIMG0895.jpg

I'm having terriffic sucess with oak acorns in the 18 cell trays'

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Tree%20Planting/Acorns/CIMG0896.jpg

I will move whatever Kazaks that do germinate to larger Rootmakers after 12-16 weeks.

You might like to read more about the Rootmakers and how they help establish better/stronger root systems thru root pruning at this link:

Rootmakers (http://www.rootmaker.com/)

Keep us posted on your kazaks Salley! :)

[whitetail fanatic]

quote: "as Phil mentioned...use window screening because apple moths love to get behind tubes and lay eggs and then you end up with a dead tree.

The window screen can be stapled shut right up tight to the trunk to keep both bugs and rodents out yet as the tree grows the staples will just pop out so no worries about it being too tight.

Deer will both browse on and rub apple trees and can kill a bunch of them over night...I have a friend who found that out the hard way.

I use this system but there are plenty of options"


Do apple moths leave the fuzzy white stuff on the trunks of small apple trees/seedlings? Are those the eggs you are talking about? I noticed a couple of mine that I had landscape fabric hoops around and that white fuzzy stuff was all over inside and the trees were dead. How do they kill the tree? Letemgrow mentioned using Bonide. Is Bonide a spray that will keep them off or kill apple moths?

thanks

[letemgrow]

I will move whatever Kazaks that do germinate to larger Rootmakers after 12-16 weeks.

I bet you will have to move them before that time Paul. They should out grow the 18 cell trays by then. :way:

So far, I have not had a single kazak apple sprout. The ones I kept in the fridge from store bought stock in damp peat have started to germinate and are basically my controls to make sure they are not watered too much etc.

[Sligh1]

Almost all my Kazak seeds have sprouted. I've had them in a cool room with a constant 55 degrees roughly, slightly cooler at night. kept it moist. doing good BUT we'll see how they fare now that they are in the root-maker trays.

Interested what folks say about moths, etc WF. not sure? I'm using general fruit spray and have no troubles, seems to kill every bug you could think of. I do have the screen cover around trunk instead of tube though.

[dbltree]

How do they kill the tree?

The larvae can get behind protectors (if screen is not used) and burrow into the tree eventually killing it.

There are links to diseases and pests back towards the beginning but here is a quick guide to some pests

Apple and Pear Insects (http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05519.html)

Almost all my Kazak seeds have sprouted. I've had them in a cool room with a constant 55 degrees roughly, slightly cooler at night

That is the key! The first ones I took from the fridge and planted and only one sprouted but the second set I left in the garage when it was in the mid 50's and a number of them are sprouting now.

They are in Rootmakers outside enjoying the 85 degree temps! :way:

[whitetail fanatic]

Thanks for posting that link dbltree. They had a description and picture of what I've seen on a few apple trees (they are 2-3 year old trees transplanted as 1 yr old seedlings a year or 2 ago).

from the link: "white woolly material on branches, trunk: woolly apple aphid. Insecticidal soaps and carbaryl (Sevin) are effective against the woolly apple aphid where it occurs on stems."

[loneranger]

If you are not against poison,,Nursery manager at Earl may in Ottumwa told me to use Super 8 spray it is called. Amoung other things it is supposed to kill Borers. I lost one apple tree to them. Since using it I have seen no more dmage,,so I guess it works.

[Sligh1]

So, I have lots of experience with grafted/planted apple trees. The Kazak seeds are new for me. They all sprouted like I said so I put them BARELY under the dirt. Put a little water on them and they are outside. The top of the soil gets crusty and hard from minor watering.
Will those rascals bust through soil ok even though it's crusty/harder?
Think it's ok that they haven't busted through yet?
Bringing them in at night and leaving outside during day. Sound ok?
How often you suggest watering?

THANKS!

SALKEELA-
I would love to see more pictures of Ireland, the trees, area, farm, etc. You all hunt there and for what? Interesting to have an Irish visitor!!! My family is from Scotland and other half is from Netherlands.

[letemgrow]

I like to water seeds lightly every evening to break the hardpan on top. That seems to work well for perennial wildflowers that I have potted. It will probably be a few days at least before they pop up since they have to grow down first.

[dbltree]

It made a big difference on germination of my Kazak apple seeds when I left the second set in 50ish degree temps after removing from the fridge. The first set I planted them direct from the fridge and only one sprouted.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Kazakapple4-15.jpg

The second set allowed to set for a week in 50-60 degree temps has much better germination

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Kazakapplessprouting.jpg

They have been in the 32 cell rootmaker for more then 10 days now and are just popping up

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Applesprouting.jpg

All of my Kazak apples have been outside 24-7 for nearly 2 weeks now and I only bring them in if temps drop below 40 (like tonight and Saturday is forecast too)

It's windy on our patio so I water no less then every other day and so far they seem to be thriving.

Whatever does germinate and grow will be transferred to Rootrapper bags later. :way:

[JNRBRONC]

Maybe a slight diversion, but it follows the theme of the thread: Apple trees.

Took a walk last night, saw that the apple trees I planted last year survived and one was flowering.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v304/jnrbronc/DSCN0666.jpg

Then, on the way back up to the house, the deer browse line in the orchard really was obvious.:D:confused::(


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v304/jnrbronc/DSCN0670.jpg

[letemgrow]

Walked my farm today, some apples really had the blooms on!!

Hewes from Century Farm on MM111 rootstock planted fall of 08.

http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k445/pes1979/Trees%20on%20the%20Farm/TrailCamPics006.jpg

Morse Nursery Apple Tree "Sweet Snack" from seed 6 years ago and look at it now!!

http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k445/pes1979/Trees%20on%20the%20Farm/TrailCamPics016-1.jpg

[dbltree]

deer browse line in the orchard really was obvious

Yikes Randy! :eek: :D

Some of mine are blooming also Phil! :way:

[shahomy]

Can someone tell me do apple tree roots grow near the top of the ground or do they go on the deep side? The reason i ask is, i`ve got a small clearing in the woods that i`d like to plant some clover and a patch/strip of brassica`s. I`ve got 5 apple trees(3 royal court and 2 honeycrisp) i`d like to plant down the middle. I`ve got a disc that i pull with a quad...will this hurt/kill the trees? I know the brassicas won`t grow well up near the trees(need sun) but hopefully some clover will...any thoughts?
Thank you.

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx168/shahomy/DSC00531.jpg

[dbltree]

I`ve got a disc that i pull with a quad...will this hurt/kill the trees?

I think you'll be fine with shallow cultivation around apple trees in your case. I have seen commercial orchards planted with rye in between in the fall with no apprant ill effects.

The roots of most trees really are pretty shallow traveling outward towards the drip line and you can do some damage with a plow for instance.

A small disc I think will be safe...;)

[letemgrow]

Looks like some 3 years old apple trees from Century Farms will be drawing in the deer!!

Kinnards Choice.

http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k445/pes1979/Trees%20on%20the%20Farm/KinnardsChoice.jpg

[KSQ2]

We planted 4 semi-dwarf apple trees from Adams County back in March (a couple goldrush and I can't remember the names of the other two). The trees seem to be growing well enough. One concern I have though is the leaves have some yellow spots on them. The new growth leaves do not, just the leaves that have been there a while. I did notice some bag worms on the two trees that are the most discolored, I went ahead and sprayed all four threes with some ortho fruit tree spray. I forgot to take the camera the other day when I was out there mowing or I'd post a pic.

[dbltree]

One concern I have though is the leaves have some yellow spots on them.

Goldrush is, unfortunately very susceptable to Cedar Apple Rust and that is almost with out a doubt the spots you see on the leaves. My Goldrush trees get hit hard every year so as you plant more trees, look for those that resistant to CAR.

http://www.waldeneffect.org/20100528cedar.jpg

Here's some thoughts on controlling CAR


Cedars can be towering beauties in lawns and forests. The trees have a fresh, evergreen scent and are popular in home landscaping. Apple trees have an all-American appeal as both landscaping and fruit trees. But these two specimens can be brought down by minuscule organisms like the fungus gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae, better known as cedar-apple rust. This fungus jumps back and forth between apple and cedar trees, and can affect the foliage and even growth of the trees. If you think your cedar or apple tree is affected, take some immediate steps to prevent the rust from spreading.


Diagnose cedar-apple rust to make sure you're treating the right condition. In mid to late summer, orange spots will appear on the leaves of an apple tree, and even leaves that aren't affected may appear discolored or thin. In mid spring, orange growths or galls will appear on the trunk and roots of a cedar tree. These grow after the spring flowering and release spores of cedar-apple rust to the apple trees nearby.

Spray the surrounding trees with fungicide in mid-April, when galls are beginning to form on cedar trees. Because cedar-apple rust spreads by jumping back and forth between apple and cedar trees, preventing the jump will interrupt the life cycle of the fungus. Spray apple trees thoroughly with fungicide, including both trunk and foliage. Consider spraying the galls on the cedar as well.


Repeat the process every seven to 10 days, until the galls are finished spreading their spores and begin to fade.



More links on CAR

Cedar-Apple Rust (http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/disease_descriptions/omcar.html)


Cedar-Apple Rust (http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1993/4-28-1993/rust.html)


This link has a great list of apple varieties and notes which ones are resistant(such as Liberty and Ark Black) and which ones are very highly susceptable such as Goldrush.


Cedar Apple Rust Information (http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/FSA-7538.pdf)

[Nontypcl1]

Dbltree is correct. It sounds like it is most likely cedar apple rust. Another common one that shows up late spring and early summer is frogeye leaf spot. Both can be orange to yellowish in color.

The best way to differentiate the two is that frogeye typically will have a dark purple or brown border around the outer edge of the lesion.

I also have some goldrush that I planted this year. Somehow I managed to keep ahead of the CAR even with 60 acres of cedars due west of me. However, I did end up with frogeye affecting them and some hundson's golden gem.


Pics of Cedar apple rust

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f71/stepcol/cedar-apple-rust-2.jpg


http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f71/stepcol/car_leaf_spot300-1.jpg


Frogeye leaf spot

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f71/stepcol/060909HartmanApplefrogeyeLS-CU.jpg


http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f71/stepcol/frogeye.jpg


Spectrocide Immunox is probably on of the better choices for cedar apple rust and frogeye. However, it can be very hard to control either disease after infection. March thru early May are the best times to spray trees to prevent both diseases.

[JNRBRONC]

Some things I consider in regards to diseases:

Will it the disease kill the tree or just cut into production?
What am I spraying and how does it impact the environment?
How often will I need to spray?
What is the cost (dollar and environmental)?

I've got Cedar trees and the apple orchard almost touching. I've never sprayed the apple orchard for rust, only sprayed once or twice for insects until I decided against it.

So far, I get an apple crop every year that is adequate for personal consumption and deer feeding purposes.

Do you really need to invest the time, effort and money to maximize production and have "market perfect" apples and yields?

You need to make a personal choice.

[KSQ2]

So far, I get an apple crop every year that is adequate for personal consumption and deer feeding purposes.

Do you really need to invest the time, effort and money to maximize production and have "market perfect" apples and yields?

You need to make a personal choice. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

That's kind of what I was thinking, these trees are specifically for deer, we won't be consuming any of these apples. Did the disease affect the first couple of years growth on your trees?

In the future, I'll purchase more resistant trees, but with these I think I'll just let nature take its course.

Thanks for the replies fellas...

[Sligh1]

If you don't spray, keep an eye on them anyways... I broke my arm/back falling outta tree one year (putting up stands in late June), came back about 6 weeks later- was outta commission for a while- and caterpillers and other bugs ate every single leaf off many of my trees.

There's also some organic or natural sprays, etc that aren't so toxic (or toxic at all) that can be applied. On a different note- obviously make sure you protect trunk in fall from rabbits, mice and deer rubbing (rabbits will kill trees quickly if not protected).

[JNRBRONC]

One thing I watch for with new trees are aphids. The leaves at the ends of the growing branches will be all wrinkled. If you look close, you might see hundreds of aphids stuck to the underside of the leaf. Another clue to aphid infestation is a trail of ants up and down the tree. The ants harvest "honey dew" from the aphids. Severe aphid infestations take away resources from the tree that it needs to put on new growth. There are lots of choices for dust/spray for aphids available at your local gardening shop.

Speaking of that, I need to take my bug dust with me next time I visit my new apple trees. :way:

[Nontypcl1]

There's also some organic or natural sprays, etc that aren't so toxic

Some organic and natural insecticides and fungicides that I use at work on a regular basis include many neem oils for different fungal and insect problems. Lime-sulfur sprays for leaf spot, mildews, and blights. BT products such as Dipel for caterpillars and loopers. Spinosad (marketed by monteray) provides excellent control for caterpillars, thrips and will suppress aphid and mite populations. Copper based fungicides, such as Bordeaux, for bacterial and fungal diseases. Pyrethrum products will also control a number of insect pests including aphids.

Just a side note on the sulfur sprays. Do not use sulfur sprays within 2 weeks of applying an oil based spray or plant damage can result.

Also make sure to read the label on copper based fungicides as some plants can be sensitive to it. Although it is safe to use on apple trees.

[KSQ2]

I've been spraying trees for a couple years now with ortho fruit tree spray. Is that okay? You can't spray too often, I'm guessing because of the toxic nature of the spray that nontyp mentioned.

[Nontypcl1]

I'm guessing the product you're using is Ortho Home Orchard Spray or Bonide Fruit tree spray. I'm not aware of an ortho fruit tree spray. Either way, the combination products for fruit trees generally consist of the fungicide captan, and the insecticides malathion and carbaryl or methoxychlor.

It is safe to spray apple trees multiple times with these products. However you should abide by the recommended spray intervals printed on the label.

Also, a word of caution on captan. It should not be sprayed with oil sprays or soon after or before an oil spray is applied. 2 or 3 weeks in between would be fine.

Combination sprays are handy to use and can be very effective when used properly. With that in mind you should not use them during the bloom period because many times the insecticide included is very toxic to bees, which serve as your main pollinators. If you decide you want to spray for diseases during the bloom period, make sure you are using only a fungicide not a product containing insecticides. This will prevent any adverse effects to pollinating insects.

[KSQ2]

Nontyp, very useful info. thanks!

[KSQ2]

It'll be time to order trees for next spring/late winter before you know it. With the trouble I've had with cedar apple rust, I was planning on ordering a couple Arkansas Blacks and a couple Nova Spy trees. That sound about right to you guys? Do any of you have any experience with the Nova Spy trees? I've been very happy with Adams County; I was planning on ordering from them again. I just wish they had something on their website specifically about cedar apple rust resistant trees. They have goldrush as one of their disease resistant trees, and they are very susceptable to cedar apple rust.

[letemgrow]

Cummins Nursery or Century Farms are other great places to order from in case Adams County is sold out. I have ordered from all three and its 6 of this and half dozen of that with them all.

I ordered again through Century Farms since they have more of the varieties I was looking for. Ask all 3 what they recommend for your area and also include resistance to CAR and see what they have available and go from there.

[KSQ2]

I just talked to Adams county and they recommend I purchase several enterprise (very highly disease resistant) and possibly a crimsoncrisp for a pollinator. Has anyone used this combination?
Thanks Letemgrow, for the heads-up on the other nurseries...
As much time as I've spent watering apple trees this late summer, I can hardly believe I'm buying more...

[dbltree]

enterprise

I believe mine are very resistant to cedar apple rust! :way:

Ditto on the Century Farms trees...we have had great luck with those trees and a little less expensive then ACN...;)

[dbltree]

I took some pics earlier of trees that seem oblivious to the red cedars only yards away and other varieties that get hit hard each year.

Goldrush is a poor one to plant around cedars regardless of where they come from!

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0016.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0015.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0013.jpg

Enterprise is unphazed!

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0011.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0012.jpg

Yates is pretty resistant

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0009.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0010.jpg

Florina is fair

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0004.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0006.jpg

Liberty is of course very resistant as are others but some of the tags didn't get fastned securely and I can't be certain of the variety.

Check for disease resistant varieties before ordering your trees for best results! :way:

[letemgrow]

That is good info Paul!! I ordered some Yates, Arkansas Black, Goldrush, Florina, Pippin and Ashmeads Kernel this year.

I already have goldrush on my place, but have not seen any CAR on them, even though cedars are scattered through my property.

[KSQ2]

Dbltree, of those you mentioned, which would be the best pollinator of enterprise? Are they all pretty late-blooming trees?

[dbltree]

Here's a list of CAR disease resistant trees ...probably more but some good ones listed here...


Disease Reaction Varieties

Highly Resistant
Dayton
Delicious
Williams’ PrideRedfree
Liberty
William's Pride
Freedom
Keepsake
McIntosh
Red Delicious
NW Greening
Regent

Moderately Resistant

Golden Delicious
Summer Champion
Turley

Moderately Susceptible
Jono
Lodi
McLemore

Highly Susceptible
Jonathon
Rome
Wealthy
York Imperial
Goldrush

[KSQ2]

Dbltree, one more question for now, and probably a dumb one at that. I planted a couple Keiffer pear trees two years ago that simply look amazing right now, they seem to be very hardy. They are standard trees though; have they engineered a semi-dwarf Keiffer pear?

[dbltree]

Dbltree, of those you mentioned, which would be the best pollinator of enterprise? Are they all pretty late-blooming trees?

From this link: Valley Nursery (http://www.valleynurseryinc.com/Fruittreelist_apple10.htm) and yes they are a later bloomig tree. :)



Pollinate with any other apple on this list EXCEPTGravenstein, King,
or Jonagold.<O:p</O:p



I planted a couple Keiffer pear trees two years ago that simply look amazing right now, they seem to be very hardy. They are standard trees though; have they engineered a semi-dwarf Keiffer pear?

Couple options but I suspect many nurseries carry semi-dwarf Keiffers...;)

Regular and dwarf Keiffer pear trees (http://www.arborday.org/Shopping/Trees/TreeDetail.cfm?id=83)

Semi-Dwarf Keiffer Pear trees (http://www.naturehills.com/product/kieffer_pear.aspx)

[KSQ2]

I visited with David Vernon at Century Farms this morning; he was extremely helpful, not only with possible ordering advice, but also with the trees I've already planted. I told him of the bad Cedar Apple Rust problem I've been dealing with on our goldrush trees. His advice was to spray next year with "Rally 40". He said it would completely eliminate the rust problem for the year, he's a big fan of it. Do any of you use this? If so, would you be willing to sell me a small amount of the powder? He said it come in 1 pound quantities, and if I had an acre of trees it would last almost a decade -- I have exactly 2 goldrush trees... I don't think I need a pound. Especially since it's quite expensive, he said the pound would run about $80. If any of you would be interested in buying some I'd be happy to go in with a group.

On a side note, after taking you fella's advice and his, I'll be ordering 2 yates, 1 enterprise, 1 keener seedling, and 1 joseph's apple, for next spring.

[dbltree]

spray next year with "Rally 40".

Dave is very helpful and I enjoyed doing business with him!

Where does one get Rally 40? I might be interested in splitting it with you...;)

[KSQ2]

Dbltree, I'm having a hard time tracking down a place to buy this product. After some research I've found "rally 40wsp" is the new name for "nova 40w", and it's a DOW product. I'm going to call the county extension office to see if they can help. I guess I could just give David, at Century Farms, a call, if I can't track anything down.

[AIRASSAULT]

I somewhat recently purchased 10 apple trees from green thumbers and planted them last Sunday.. I watered them really well when planting and also used some root starter stuff in the water, I also watered them on Wednesday and then again Friday.. my question is how much longer should I water them before they'll go dormant?

[dbltree]

I somewhat recently purchased 10 apple trees from green thumbers and planted them last Sunday.. I watered them really well when planting and also used some root starter stuff in the water, I also watered them on Wednesday and then again Friday.. my question is how much longer should I water them before they'll go dormant?

Since we seem to be having a dry spell right now i would water them every 3-4 days until leaf drop perhaps....;)

[Sligh1]

If you all get that Rally 40, I'd sure go in with you!

[Medicine Man]

Planted and caged 53 apple trees 4 years ago. Lost half to fire blight.....Make sure you pick varieties with some fire blight resistance....man did I ever screw up. I was more concerned with rust and supplier never mentioned that varieties he sold me had little to no fire blight resistance.....also, in addition to caging it is a good idea to wrap bottom 12" with light screen to prevent girdling from mice, rabbits if they can get through cage.......good luck

[letemgrow]

I have some gold rush out on the farm and for some reason none of them have the CAR problem...yet?? There are scattered cedars all over the property so I am not sure how they are so susceptible, yet none of my apples have required spraying???

[Nontypcl1]

I planted some goldrush this past spring and had very little CAR on them. Only 2 or 3 leaves were affected on each tree. I did spray for it in early spring however.

[dbltree]

I planted some goldrush this past spring and had very little CAR on them. Only 2 or 3 leaves were affected on each tree. I did spray for it in early spring however.

What did you spray it with?

[Nontypcl1]

I was able to get some Eagle 20EW through work and applied it shortly after planting in april and once again 2 or 3 weeks later. The active ingredient is myclobutanil. Spectracide Immunox also contains myclobutanil and is available without a pesticide applicators liscense and much cheaper though at a lower % a.i.

Immunox is typically what I recommend to homeowners that stop in at the greenhouse with rust problems.

[Sligh1]

I was able to get some Eagle 20EW through work and applied it shortly after planting in april and once again 2 or 3 weeks later. The active ingredient is myclobutanil. Spectracide Immunox also contains myclobutanil and is available without a pesticide applicators liscense and much cheaper though at a lower % a.i.

Immunox is typically what I recommend to homeowners that stop in at the greenhouse with rust problems.


OK- where can I get this stuff?

[Nontypcl1]

OK- where can I get this stuff?Spectracide Immunox is usually available at Menards, Home depot, or possibly even walmart. Many other garden centers or greenhouses and nurseries carry it as well.

Here's a link to what the bottle looks like

http://www.spectracide.com/ProductCategories/RoseAndFlowerCare/SpectracideImmunox/

[loneranger]

I used Immunox this past summer on an apple tree that always gets hammered by Cedar rust amd it worked great. Also good for black rot on grapes, but for some reason it did not keep scab off my Gala tree. It did rain though ,,like every other day. It is a good fungicide though.

[Hardwood11]

Has anyone planted northern spy? I have one planted on our farm from many years ago, it really produces some nice apples... I think I may plant more this year. Deer area all over it.

[dbltree]

Has anyone planted northern spy? I have one planted on our farm from many years ago, it really produces some nice apples... I think I may plant more this year. Deer area all over it.

Shoot! Everything but...guess I will add it to my wish list though! :way:


Dbltree's Apple/Pear list:


2008 Adams County nursery

Goldrush EMLA 111 (NOT CAR resistant)
Enterprise EMLA 111
Autumn Rose Fuji Bud 9
Red Rome 262 EMLA 111

2009 Century Farms Nursery

Royal Limbertwig
Kinnaird's Choice
Terry Winter
Gold Rush,
Florina (Querina),
Yates
Keener Seedling
old fashion Limbertwig
Imperial York apple

Kieffer pear
Magness Pear

Burnt Ridge Nursery

[quote] KOREAN GIANT ASIAN PEAR (SEMI . Don Bae) (Pyrus pyrifolia)
semi-dwarf

SHINKO ASIAN PEAR (Pyrus pyrif SEMI olia)
semi - dwarf

ASIAN PEAR (Twentie SEMI th Century) (Pyrus pyrifolia)
semi-dwarf2010 Burnt Ridge Nursery

ARKANSAS BLACK APPLE (Malus do SEMI-M111 mestica)
semi dwarf, M111 rootstock

SPITZENBERG APPLE (Malus domes SEMI-M111 tica)
semi-dwarf, M111 rootstock

CALVILLE BLANC D'HIVER APPLE(M SEMI-M111 alus domestica)
semi dwarf, M111 rootstock

CHOJURO ASIAN PEAR (Pyrus pyri SEMI folia)
semi-dwarf

[Nontypcl1]

I used Immunox this past summer on an apple tree that always gets hammered by Cedar rust amd it worked great. Also good for black rot on grapes, but for some reason it did not keep scab off my Gala tree. It did rain though ,,like every other day. It is a good fungicide though.


Scab has shown some resistance to myclobutanil so that could one possibility why it didn't keep the Gala clean. Timing is also everything with controlling some of these diseases and with the rain we had even more so. You should spray for scab as soon as leaves begin to emerge and then again approx 2 weeks later.

Captan and daconil are both labeled for scab and I don't believe there are any resistance issues with either of them. If you had a bad case of scab you might consider raking and destroying the fallen leaves as they will be a source of scab spores in the future.

[dbltree]

Just a reminder to those planning their 2011 fruit tree plantings to consider utilizing the area in and around the orchard to plant white clover. No sense wasting the area and fighting weeds and grass when the same area can be attractive to whitetails from early spring well into winter simply by adding clover.

We killed the sod around these apple and pear trees in late summer with two applications of glyphosate about 2 weeks apart.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Appleorchardseeding.jpg

and then planted a lush mix of rye/oats/peas/radish and both white and red clovers in late August

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/AppleorchardOctober.jpg

This coming spring we'll use clethodim to kill the rye leaving only a beautiful stand of white clover behind. These trees are just starting to produce fruit so once again we use the combination of clover and fruit trees planted adjacent to strip plots of brassicas, the rye combination and more clover to keep deer adapted to feeding here year around.

Start your orchard with late bearing apples and pears but then each year add earlier bearing trees so that eventually trees are bearing fruit from July to November and with clover attracting them from early April through January the combination is an excellent attractant and source of high quality feed.

I would also add that the combination of clover and fruit trees is perfect for small woodland openings where large scale food plots are not feasible, both clover and fruit trees can be maintained with a backpack sprayer and even a weed whip if necessary.

Check the front page for more ideas and details on varieties and planting info because fruit trees are often the one thing that the neighbors don't have and are simply irresistible to whitetails.... :way:

[DH1]

We killed the sod around these apple and pear trees in late summer with two applications of glyphosate about 2 weeks apart.


dbltree: couple questions
1) I don't have much experience spraying grass or weeds, last year was actually the 1st time. Seemed like the advice I was getting was that the optimal time to spray was once in May, then again about 4 weeks later and a 3rd time in mid-September. So if I wanted to spray and not have to cut grass first would some other times work out? For me timing might be better in June and then again in September or just Septmber (I'm not planning on planting anything this late-spring/early summer, maybe this fall, if not then next spring).

2) I've typcially planted Oak in the late April early May period, I know you mentioned that you'll plant some of your seedlings throughout the summer as time permits. Could I plant Oak or Apple trees as late as the end of September (wondering if you've tried it that late)?

3) One last question, last fall I tried using window screen around the bottom of trees to protect against mice and rabbits as suggested. Should I have tried to bury the bottom of the screen a few inches? The advice I've gotten on the tubes was to go about 2 inches into the ground. I didn't think of it at the time, I guess I haven't used the tubes enough for it to be automatic.

[Hardwood11]

[QUOTE=DH1;399721]dbltree: couple questions
t then next spring).

2) I've typcially planted Oak in the late April early May period, I know you mentioned that you'll plant some of your seedlings throughout the summer as time permits. Could I plant Oak or Apple trees as late as the end of September (wondering if you've tried it that late)?

I am sure dbltree can answer this, but I do a lot of fall planting of trees, I actually prefer to plant trees in the fall here in MN. Reasons, survival is usually high, fall rains are almost a guarantee, cool nights help get the tree started, limited browse, no weed growth.

Containerized seedlings (plugs) work very well planted in the fall. I am guessing I have 90% survival on oak plugs in the fall, apple is 75% or better, but must be protected by a cage/tube/mesh etc...

[MO-APE]

For your reference, found this info on a MU Extension page:

http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G6026

[letemgrow]

2) I've typcially planted Oak in the late April early May period, I know you mentioned that you'll plant some of your seedlings throughout the summer as time permits. Could I plant Oak or Apple trees as late as the end of September (wondering if you've tried it that late)?

Fall is the IDEAL time to plant for my area (MO/IA border). The next best time is as soon as the ground thaws in the spring. Planting in fall helps the tree get established before the summer stress period. If it gets hot and dry out in July, and you planted in April/May, that seedling would not fair nearly as well as a seedling planted in late October/Early November. :way:

[DH1]

Thanks for the feedback Hardwood11 & letemgrow, every little bit helps. Last couple years have been pretty hetic, making up for many years of neglect. A while back I had a pretty good apple grove going and had some body come on the property and dig them up, so kinda got discouraged for a while. But when you have that planting bug in you it's just a matter of time to get it going again.

[jmm46]

When is the best time to fertilize apple trees?? And what kind of fertilizer would you spread under the tree?(triple 13?) Is this an effective method in helping the tree produce more apples?

[loneranger]

For fruit production a lower first number, lower Nitrogen is better, but triple 12 works and is easier to find.

[loneranger]

Spring or fall is good time to fert, root systems gorw in the fall, even when the tree seems to be going dormant. Roots grow until ground freezes. Next season's top tree growth follows how much the roots grew, the previous late summer, early fall, season.

[Sligh1]

I like hitting them with 13-13-13 and doing about 1 lbs for each inch of tree diameter. Now is a good time to fertilize. I get that fertilizer down in the soil too. ALSO- don't be afraid to put some pell-lime on it too if you have acidic soils.

[letemgrow]

I like hitting them with 13-13-13 and doing about 1 lbs for each inch of tree diameter. Now is a good time to fertilize. I get that fertilizer down in the soil too. ALSO- don't be afraid to put some pell-lime on it too if you have acidic soils.


I like to use a dibble bar for getting the fertilizer in the ground. Some of mine is fairly sloped so I put the fertilzer in around the drip line on the uphill side.

[dbltree]

Dang it! Got a bad addiction and don't know if I can ever break free of it...fruit trees! :eek: :D

Every year it seems the order get's a little bigger and this year they arrived from Century Farms Orchards (http://www.centuryfarmorchards.com/) so I started a new orchard adjacent to my centrally located food plot area and got busy digging in this ole SE Iowa clay.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2553.jpg

This area is well drained but very poor subsoil clay

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2554.jpg

I kept the tree roots well protected and wrapped up tight in a bag with some moist soil

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2556.jpg

and got the holes all dug and top soil opened and at the ready by each hole

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2555.jpg

The root systems varied in size and this hole could have been a tad bigger

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2557.jpg

While others were just right

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2559.jpg

I poured a bag of top soil around each tree

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2558.jpg

and quickly moved down the line keeping root exposure to drying winds at a minimum

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2560.jpg

Then I went back down the line straightening each tree and firmly tamping the soil around each one

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2562.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2564.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2561.jpg

Then I cut 12" strips of 24" window screen and stapled them around the tree as a rodent and moth protector

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2566.jpg

Easy to do with a common stapler

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2565.jpg

then I sealed the top soil and bottom of the screen with clay

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2566.jpg

and stapled the name tags to the screen

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2563.jpg

and then took a moment to survey my work and imagine whitetails lapping up apples here some day in the future :)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/CIMG2567.jpg

I still have to stake and fence these and take it from me...don't put it off! probably lot's of great ways to get an orchard established but this method has worked well for me

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/IMG_0045.jpg

Fruit trees tend to be a little pricey so I got some of my crazy addicted (to habitat) friends together and we have about 200 trees already on order with Adams County Nursery for $8-10 a piece for 2012...guess I better sharpen that shovel.... ;)

[dbltree]

July 27th, 2011

The Kazak apples started from seed last year in Rootmaker cells are doing well in the Root Trapper bags and I hope to get them planted this fall.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/KazakApple.jpg

Grown from seed, each is a little different from the other

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/Kazak%20Apples/Kazak1.jpg

Interesting that there are 300 year old trees in Kazakstan

Plant Collection Expedition to Kazakstan (http://www.ars.usda.gov/Main/docs.htm?docid=6311)

Hopefully we can keep these trees alive and spread the genetics around since they are so disease free... :way:

[letemgrow]

Hopefully we can keep these trees alive and spread the genetics around since they are so disease free... :way:

That sure would be nice!!

[medicsnoke]

Do you guys have any previous dealings with a company that I could order persimmon trees from, particularly a company that will ship to Ohio?

[loneranger]

I have one Persimmon tree from Burnt Ridge Nursery in Washington State. They ship all over I believe. The tree is growing fine, I also have three apple trees from them. Each of them grows great. They have more positive comments then Neg, about them.

[dbltree]

I have one Persimmon tree from Burnt Ridge Nursery in Washington State. They ship all over I believe. The tree is growing fine, I also have three apple trees from them. Each of them grows great. They have more positive comments then Neg, about them.

I agree..I always get excellent stock from Burnt Ridge and Red Fern Farm in Iowa is another good source.

Burnt Ridge Nursery (http://www.burntridgenursery.com/)

Red Fern Farm (http://www.redfernfarm.com/tree03.htm)

[letemgrow]

Do you guys have any previous dealings with a company that I could order persimmon trees from, particularly a company that will ship to Ohio?


Order them from the MDC nursery...you get 25 seedlings for 8 bucks unless you are wanting some special grafted persimmon. They ship/order out of state and have great stock. Persimmons are either male or female so plant quite a few to make sure you get some of each. Then thin out the males as they start to fruit later on.

Grafted stock is sure to be either male or female, but you pay for that service too. :D

[Hardwood11]

Letemgo: How would persimmon trees do near Des Moines? I will have a new farm in that area..closing in November.

[letemgrow]

Letemgo: How would persimmon trees do near Des Moines? I will have a new farm in that area..closing in November.


They are doing great in zone 5A....close to the IA line so I highly doubt anything by Des Moines should be the same zone as I am in. Those seedlings came from the MDC nursery so it is hard telling where exactly the original source came from within MO. Persimmons are non-existent in my area (have found one lone grove of wild persimmon in Mercer County). They are much more prevelant the farther south you go in MO so surely the source they came from is zone 6, but they are loaded with fruits in zone 5A. Congrats on the farm purchase. :way:

[Hardwood11]

They are doing great in zone 5A....close to the IA line so I highly doubt anything by Des Moines should be the same zone as I am in. Those seedlings came from the MDC nursery so it is hard telling where exactly the original source came from within MO. Persimmons are non-existent in my area (have found one lone grove of wild persimmon in Mercer County). They are much more prevelant the farther south you go in MO so surely the source they came from is zone 6, but they are loaded with fruits in zone 5A. Congrats on the farm purchase. :way:

Thanks...

I will not be official owner until November... unfortunately it meant selling my other 80...but I will have more acres and a nix mix of tillable, timber and some hay ground/pasture that could be turned into habitat projects.

Looking forward to doing quite a few things, lots of deer on it already.

[letemgrow]

Thanks...

I will not be official owner until November... unfortunately it meant selling my other 80...but I will have more acres and a nix mix of tillable, timber and some hay ground/pasture that could be turned into habitat projects.

Looking forward to doing quite a few things, lots of deer on it already.


Trading up in acres is never a bad thing and it sounds like you can still make some income off the place and have lots of wildlife to boot. Remind me come November and I will mail you up some seeds off those persimmons. They are easy to start and I plant 20-30 seeds in a 5-gallon pot, keep them watered once they are seedlings in the bag and you will have more than you care to plant out at the farm.

They are stored in the fridge in damp peat all winter...they can have delayed germination tho and some may not germ till say June after they are planted out.

[Hardwood11]

Trading up in acres is never a bad thing and it sounds like you can still make some income off the place and have lots of wildlife to boot. Remind me come November and I will mail you up some seeds off those persimmons. They are easy to start and I plant 20-30 seeds in a 5-gallon pot, keep them watered once they are seedlings in the bag and you will have more than you care to plant out at the farm.

They are stored in the fridge in damp peat all winter...they can have delayed germination tho and some may not germ till say June after they are planted out.

Will do, yes I am excited about the farm. Skip has been there, he gave me a stamp of approval:D

[Sligh1]

Will do, yes I am excited about the farm. Skip has been there, he gave me a stamp of approval:D

It's quite the place! I can envision what that place could look like in a couple years and it's a real gem! Got a solid foundation of how it breaks up, neighborhood, deer numbers and trees. Apples and pears out there would be great and I sure wouldn't hesitate putting some persimmons out. My old farm in van Buren county had many persimmons I planted and after 5 years, were going strong! That place is going to be a lot of enjoyment for you, congrats again!

[Hardwood11]

It's quite the place! I can envision what that place could look like in a couple years and it's a real gem! Got a solid foundation of how it breaks up, neighborhood, deer numbers and trees. Apples and pears out there would be great and I sure wouldn't hesitate putting some persimmons out. My old farm in van Buren county had many persimmons I planted and after 5 years, were going strong! That place is going to be a lot of enjoyment for you, congrats again!

Thanks Skip, about an acre of apple/pear and persimmon trees, that would really help...plus a few chainsaws/TSI and food plots:way:

[OHIOshedder]

I keep forgetting to fertilize my apple trees, would it hurt to add 10-10-10 now?

[dbltree]

I keep forgetting to fertilize my apple trees, would it hurt to add 10-10-10 now?

I doubt it would hurt but better in the spring along with some pellet lime...;)

[OKplotter]

I'm thinking it's time for me to plant my first fruit bearing trees. My land in Oklahoma is mostly oak and hickory with red cedars mixed in. Since it's my first go I'm trying to find the tree that gives me the highest chance of success. I'm leaning towards starting with 4 dolgo crabapples, or the wildlife group's mix of 4 different crabapples. I believe the dolgos are very cedar rust resistant, grow in nearly all soil types, and will be a good pollinator for other apple trees.

I'm not worried about these providing fruit for me to eat, this first year is all about the deer. Do you guys agree with dolgo or crabapples in general, or would you go a different way?

[loneranger]

Those are good choices. I hope you got water down there? I have been hauling water out to my trees since July,,and still doing it! Here in once wet Iowa!

[Sligh1]

I'd combine some other varieties that are more disease resistant and ripen at varying times. You can read earlier in this thread for all sorts of varieties. I'd mix it up and if you bundled some trees with a buddy, you can generally find trees for $7-8 which is really low cost vs any other type of food.

[dbltree]

October 9th, 2011

A friend of mine has about 30 apple and pear trees that are 5 years old this year and finally starting to produce, so I look for some of mine to start this coming year as well. Lot's of things can cause failure in fruit trees of course but by planting a variety of disease resistant trees in our centralized feeding area we have a better chance of overall success. These trees are bearing fruit despite spring floods and summer drought that caused many annual plot crops to fail.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/2011Apples.jpg

Time to initiate a spraying program to increase yield and quality of fruit to help meet our goal of attracting and holding deer with year around food sources. With varieties that produce from July to late November along with those that are "winter keepers" that are likely to hang on the tree well past the first of the year...we have yet another means of insuring that whitetails will visit our feeding area all year long and avoid the disappointment that comes from a crop failure due to weather problems.... ;)

[dbltree]

November 26th. 2011

Mike from Missouri sent me some pics of his new fruit tree orchard and method of planting...looks outstanding to me!

There are 37 trees in this orchard that we planted the weekend of October 7. Some of the varieties include Enterprise, Honeygold, Jonafree, Honeycrisp, Starkspur Arkansas Black, Prairifire Crabapple, Wildlife Crabapple, Profusion Crabapple, Manchurian Crabapple, Wolf River, Goldrush, Kieffer pear, Olympic Giant Asian Pear, Stark Honeysweet Pear, and Moonglow Pear.

Each tree was handled with extreme care and each got roughly 45 gallons of water that weekend, a rock mulch ring, a wood chip mulch ring around the rock mulch ring, three 6 ½ foot t-post, and 47 inch field fence held off the ground. I was unsure if we should take off the rodent tree protectors that came with the trees so we left them on and stapled window screen over them.

We also tied a rope from the supporting stake to the t-post in an effort to try and keep the wind from adding stress to the trees. The trees have received at least an inch of rain each week since planting which should help the roots get established before next summer’s stress.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/DSC01237.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/DSC01252.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/DSC01262.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/DSC01264.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e288/dbltree/Apple%20Trees/DSC01266.jpg

Very nicely done Mike! I would establish white clover around the trees and what a great combination that would make! :way:

[letemgrow]

Could not be setup better than Mike just did it!! Fantastic job!! Other than pruning this winter and some clover, that is about all he can do.

[LarryM]

The bark protectors are fine for the winter, but remove them in the spring as they will likely attract borers or somesuch. An alternative to plastic tree guards is white latex paint on the trunks to help prevent injury in winter, plus wire mesh “mouse guards” that you've already put on.

[SoDakarcher]

Thought I would tap into the wealth of knowledge this sight provides by so many. Will be adding pear trees to an orchard of 10 apple trees. I will be ordering 5 Luscious Pear, 5 Summercrisp Pear and a dozen Harbin Pear. These seem to get the best reviews for central South Dakota and colder climates. Any thought or advice on these selections before the order goes in would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[dbltree]

Thought I would tap into the wealth of knowledge this sight provides by so many. Will be adding pear trees to an orchard of 10 apple trees. I will be ordering 5 Luscious Pear, 5 Summercrisp Pear and a dozen Harbin Pear. These seem to get the best reviews for central South Dakota and colder climates. Any thought or advice on these selections before the order goes in would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

If they are adapted to your climate they should do fine :way: