Called my county FSA office today and they said they're waiting on the federal offices to release the money to them for local payment. She speculated maybe next week sometime.
I can't remember who said it or where I saw it posted, paraphrased, "everyone wants to talk about antler inches, the only inch that matters is the 1/2" your trigger finger moves"
Well the weather snuck up on us this fall. While waiting for more of the tree canopy to drop, the weather was too windy for a spraying last week, then this past weekend we had a pretty hard frost of ~20° overnight low.
Do you guys think the honeysuckle went dormant after that frost? Of course...
If it's all timbered land, can you edge feather it into an impenetrable forest that the deer won't use except for possibly a few spots which would be the same as the one way gate theory?
Wanted to follow up on this. Used a no till drill to drill brassicas through these beans and it worked good to great. Areas with heavier growth of brassicas seem to be the tire tracks that flattened beans better. Photos from Aug 31 of brassicas planted Aug 2. Going to be a lot of food out there...
I've broadcast NWSG/forbs by lightly wetting down some oats (appropriate rate for given area) and then mixing the NWSG mix with them. The fluffies stick to the oats and broadcast well that way. I wonder if the same could be done and then put in a drill box? I don't see why not, just have to be...
Yes wheat will over winter better than oats. You can run into a problem with too many cereals surviving until the next year. Oats, IMO offer premier attraction for 45 days post planting AND they are gone in the spring when the rye, peas, and clovers fill in. Double benefit. YMMV
Keep in mind, you get nitrogen "credit" from your organic matter in your soil as well. I've seen estimates of about 20-25# of nitrogen per 1% OM. Having healthy soil and rotating crops that fix nitrogen can be cost beneficial to your wallet and is better in the long run than dumping endless...
Looks like your rye may struggle according to that Michigan planting guide and 6 months on alfalfa, while not clover (somewhat similar) is at 6 months.
The bigger the seed, the more energy it has to push through that initial thatch layer and find sunlight.
That being said, if you want brassicas you still have time to till and replant. Should have some stored nitrogen in the soil from the terminated clover too.
We used small seed box setting 45 to get us about 6.5#/ac last week on a 606NT if that helps. You could also calibrate your drill by following the manual (highly recommended).
The plot pictured was drilled with beans the first week of June, then laid over a heavy mat of rye and hairy vetch and sprayed. 15" rows appears to be canopied or nearly canopied. I was considering drilling brassicas into this field, but between the thatch and the beans I'm not sure how...
What have you guys been seeing for plant back time when using me-too-lachlor on beans? Considering going with a lighter rate in hopes of shortening it up a bit. Soil is silt loam.
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