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Fertilizer prices

turkeyriver

PMA Member
I'm a farmer and prepaid my fertilizer for this spring in Dec. 07. What prices have done since then is scary but my supplier assured me we haven't seen anything yet. You can't stockpile nitrogen but can buildup your P and K levels. If you are fertilizing this spring, you might consider putting 2 yrs. worth on now, while it is cheap!
 
That's scary! Urea was running 800/ton when I picked some up a couple weeks ago.

Would urea keep in 55 gallon drums, or would it degrade?
 
I would think it would degrade in the air.I had some in bags before and it ate right through them.I think you would be hard pressed to keep it around for long? I will get it and put it right out.
doug
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: turkeyriver</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> If you are fertilizing this spring, you might consider putting 2 yrs. worth on now, while it is cheap! </div></div>

We are out of the cheap stuff, and our MAP is 930 bucks a ton. Stand back because the potash is what is going to be out of control.
 
Unfortunately, DAP in my area is $1040/ton and potash is $860/ton. I was qoted $808/ton on Urea in bags. I took a gamble earlier (when Dap was $600 and potash was $400) and bought some of next year's needs. So far I look smart but its not next year yet.
 
I have kept DAP, Urea, and AMS in sealed containers from year to year. Moisture is the enemy. The barrels were poly with lids that seal. Same with my 5 gallon buckets.
 
Excuse my ignorance but why would potash prices be so high? Would wood stove ashes do anything for food plots or gardens?
 
Have any of you guys ever used bottom ash from a power plant for a ph controller as well as a fertilizer?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Skully</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Would wood stove ashes do anything for food plots or gardens? </div></div>

Results of a quick google search:

Wood ash does have fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, which most Southern Indiana soils have plenty of already.
It also contains about 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc. Trace amounts of heavy metals such as lead, cadmium, nickel and chromium also may be present.
Wood ash does not contain nitrogen, the primary nutrient needed in gardens.
The largest component of wood ash (about 25 percent) is calcium carbonate, which is garden lime. Lime (or limestone) raises the pH of the soil, making it more alkaline (or less acid). Wood ash has a very fine particle size, so it reacts rapidly and completely in the soil.
Increasing the alkalinity of the soil can affect plant nutrition. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.
Applying small amounts of wood ash to most soils will not adversely affect your garden crops, and the ash does help replenish some nutrients. But because wood ash increases soil pH, adding large amounts can do more harm than good.
Specific recommendations for the use of wood ash in the garden are difficult to make because soil composition and reaction varies from garden to garden.
Acidic soils (pH less than 5.5) would benefit by wood ash addition. Soils that are slightly acidic (pH 6 to 6.5) should not be harmed by the application of 20 pounds per 100 square feet annually, if the ash is worked into the soil about 6 inches or so.
However, if your soil is neutral or alkaline (pH 7 or greater), find another way to dispose of wood ash. If you don't know your soil's acidity or alkalinity level, have it tested for pH.
Crop tolerance to alkaline soil also should be considered. Some plants, such as asparagus and juniper, are more tolerant of slightly alkaline conditions than "acid-loving" plants, such as potatoes, rhododendrons and blueberries. Wood ash should never be used on acid-loving plants.
 
The high fertlizer costs not to mention other input costs are just another reason I'm so interested in Sustainable Agriculture

Not possible perhaps if one is removing 200 bushel of corn per acre...do that and you have to put some tremendous amounts of "something" back, but food plots are another story entirely.

I'm glad that I have built up my soil fertility to a point where I can maintain it or "sustain" it so to speak with plowdowns.

Organic farmers have been using many of the options I mention in the cover crop thread for years with the exception of adding animal manure when they can get it.

This is why we don't leave ground setting "idle", make it work, plant crops that will build the soil, control weeds, add nitrogen etc.

Or...

get out the checkbook.... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif
 
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