Fletching hitting arrow rest

[Cooter]

Ya "level" isn't always right.

you mean while setting up a bow not paper tuning?

I agree with Huntyak that if you shoot through paper some more and are still getting a constant tail down tear I would drop the rest. You should still have good clearance with your vanes. I wont hurt to double check.

The tear down could come from you dropping your bow arm at the shot.

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[Packnasty]

I've learned that the QAD Hunter rests often bounce back up. Or, it's possible that it may not be falling fast enough. The two white lines on the front portion of the thumb wheel shouldn't line up until the end of your draw cycle. If rest gets fully cocked too soon, and the two lines align too early, I'd guess that it's not dropping fast enuf.

Play around with the length of the string that connects to your buss cable. You should be able to get it right that way.

Not sure how to fix bounceback... probably the opposite. You'd probably just want to get your string tighter. One way to fix bounceback is to get a QAD Ultra-Rest LD (Lock Down). They don't bounce back up.

 

[jesserichard]

you mean while setting up a bow not paper tuning?

I agree with Huntyak that if you shoot through paper some more and are still getting a constant tail down tear I would drop the rest. You should still have good clearance with your vanes. I wont hurt to double check.

The tear down could come from you dropping your bow arm at the shot.

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Ive seet up bows so there 100% level and center shot. Then shoot thru paper and the tare is bad. You can say "its your form" well its not. thats why I take the time and paper tune my bows. Alls that I know when im done I have no issues.

 

[Cooter]

Just asking if you meant level when tuning or having the bow level when you are shooting it threw paper.

I agree that having everything level when setting it up doesn't mean it will shoot good. I don't put a level on my bows. I just eyeball them and then paper tune it.

I have seen people that can't shoot threw paper with out getting bad tares no matter what adjustments are made. If not form what would cause this?

If you are getting tares that are all over the place and you don't have fetching contact it must be form.

I also think you can't paper tune a bow for someone else and expect to get perfect tares from them shooting it.( in most cases)

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[Crimson Arrows]

Ive seet up bows so there 100% level and center shot. Then shoot thru paper and the tare is bad. You can say "its your form" well its not. thats why I take the time and paper tune my bows. Alls that I know when im done I have no issues.

Paper tune is a great start but only gives You a 'snap shot' in time and distance. Once you get it as close as possible, one must still shoot in their center shot with walk backhand finally broadheads tuning. Often when that's done, going back to paper will show a tear.

Again-centershot must be shot in, and CS is defined as the strings power stroke perfectly in line with the arrow.

Get papertune close, but focus on walkback and ultimately broadheads tuned to get with field points. Once You have that, the power stroke of the string is 100%a inline with the Arrow and your tuned

 

[jesserichard]

I agree with that

 

[bigbucknut]

I have a five year old Shaffer drop away rest on my Matthews but I have been thinking of upgrading to one of these newer arrow rests that holds the arrow better. I was worried though that better holding also means more chance for arrow contact issues. Hmmm. anyone have any input on a good one of these? New Archery Products has an Apache Carbon that looks nice and then there are the Ripcord like designs.

 

[zvholk]

Thanks guys for the help I’ll have to check out the walk back tuning tomorrow but I don’t think that’s an issue because my left to right has been spot on.

Cooter, I was talking about being level 2 different times. The guy that put the rest on for me but a level on the string and arrow so they were 90 from one another. When I was paper tuning no one was watching me to make sure my arrow was level when taking the shot so that could have cause the low tail. Correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[mplane72]

Raising your nock point may fix your contact problem and put you in tune .....But if your really going to get anal paper tuning should wait until you have taken care of the fletching contact. First I assume you are shooting cock vane up. If so then the next thing to check is the timing of your rest. You want the rest to come to the fully cocked position in the last inch or two of the draw cycle. This will start your rest dropping sooner upon release. As someone mentioned lipstick can be helpful for figuring out fletching contact. Something is probably causing the back of your arrow to drop as it is released. Could be nock pinch or nock travel.

 

[shadowpeople]

Thanks guys for the help I’ll have to check out the walk back tuning tomorrow but I don’t think that’s an issue because my left to right has been spot on.

Cooter, I was talking about being level 2 different times. The guy that put the rest on for me but a level on the string and arrow so they were 90 from one another. When I was paper tuning no one was watching me to make sure my arrow was level when taking the shot so that could have cause the low tail. Correct me if I’m wrong.

Setting up the bow at 90 degrees is good but that's not the final setup. It's a great start, but the rest is up to you. Getting a decent paper tune will narrow it down quite a bit. I don't think it's absolutely crucial to have your bow at 90 degrees while paper tuning, certainly does not need to be precise enough for a level or having somebody watching you. If you had somebody watching you while paper tuning, it would be more for making sure you had the correct form. Broadhead tuning is the end all in most cases. If you can get your bow to shoot broadheads and field points in the same spot, your bow is tuned. But, as stated above, paper tune your bow after broadhead tuning and you will have a tear nearly every time. That being said, I usually just get it close by setting it up, walkback tune it, broadhead tune it and done. Good luck!

 

[Cooter]

Cooter, I was talking about being level 2 different times. The guy that put the rest on for me but a level on the string and arrow so they were 90 from one another. When I was paper tuning no one was watching me to make sure my arrow was level when taking the shot so that could have cause the low tail. Correct me if I’m wrong.

That question was directed twards Jess. Sorry for the confusion.

Sounds like you are getting it dialed in.

You taken it turkey hunting this spring?

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