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Food Plots

I'm planning on doing some food plots on my farm this year and I figured I could get some good advice here. What do you guys prefer and why? Looking to provide some good quality food year round. Clover, beans and rye are my thoughts.

Allamakee Grand Slam
 
Gie your IDNR district wildlife biologist a call. They have a WHIP (wildlife habitat incentive program) which will pay up to 75% of the cost of putting in food plots. They can also give you some good recommendations for which crops will work best in your area.
 
WHIP cost share for food plots?

I'm still experimenting on the right mix of types and quantity to plant. Beans were pounded from the time they sprouted this year until they turned brown. Dry fall hampered a mix of winter wheat & rye but they grazed it down to nothing- the rye comes back early in the year for early greens. I'm going to add corn this year to try and extend the supply of food around for winter. Between beans and rye though I feel like I'm providing good protein about 9 months of the year.
 
Pharmer

Last year I caught the tail end of a food plot seminar at the Wis. Deer Expo in Madison and the fellow said that there wasn't much food value for deer in rye. I haven't looked into it but a friend told me deer will walk through corn, beans and alfalfa to eat rye. He said the tobacco farmers use it to put nitrogen back in the soil and also as a winter cover crop. He also said if you move the snow cover from it that it is as green as in the summer. Do you know if it has much protein. I've been told that protein is the most important thing to get deer and turkeys through winter because protein is what generates warmth for animals. Thanks for the info.

Allamakee Grand Slam
 
Hello,

Those are all excellent choices. Much depends on food plot location, soil types and where and when you want the food to be utilized, as you probably know. Deer love soybeans -- 35% protein --the highest of all legumes -- and will start eating the plant as soon as they peek out of the soil That’s not always a good thing, of course, because you probably are wanting most to put out pods for deer use in the fall and winter. Thus, small bean plots can be decimated before the fall hunting season in areas of high deer density (plant as many acres of beans as you can in high deer density areas). A good tactic with beans is to plant a good diversionary summer food source, such as ladino clover, to defray some of the deer feeding intensity on beans during the critical summer growing months. Just something to keep in mind.

Clover is an excellent year-round deer food, once established (although early spring through late-October would be the normal times of highest use). Ladino is a top choice (27% protein) and can be had for a little over $3 per pound from most farm seed dealers and coops. It does best on moist, well-drained soils with PH levels over 6. Ladino has shallow roots which means it doesn’t tolerate drought or droughty clay-based soils as well as some plants (such as alfalfa). For these reasons, many bottomland situations are perfect for ladino.

I plant ladino very heavy (heavier than most guide books recommend) because it is fairly inexpensive and will self thin. I would plant at 8-10 pounds per acre. And, by the way, now is a perfect time to plant ladino -- when most or all of the snow has melted anyway. I would plant it on dead sod (sod that perhaps you sprayed last fall) or on bare ground, such as in last years crop field. It will grow if seeded into live sod but it’s much preferable to kill the sod first. This will greatly increase the stand density and will help keep weed competition to its lowest levels (You can use POAST or an equivalent, per label directions, to help with weed control in clover plots). You can also frost seed ladino into a stand of last years winter wheat. The wheat will act as a nurse crop for the establishing ladino clover. You then mow down the wheat in June to find a great stand of clover growing underneath! You can also plant clover later in the season, by standard crop preparation fare of working the soil, sewing the seed, etc. But frost seeding is really a better method because the seed gets started earlier in the season, getting a jump ahead of competing weeds. In dryer soils, red clover is an alternative clover choice. It is a good deer food but its not as high on the preference list as is ladino.

Winter rye is a fantastic deer food and I am always surprised how little this food plot choice seems to be recommended or is employed by hunters. It is cheap (costs less than $15 per acre for seed -- and this may be the reason why you don’t hear much about it -- nobody is making money off of it.) Rye grows on all but the worst soils, grows fast, tolerates extremely dry and wet conditions, germinates with a just 1/8 inch of moisture (sometimes even a heavy dew will get a stand of rye growing!), stays green all winter and puts out lots of pounds per acre. It also continues to grow all the way down to about 37 degrees! Besides that, deer love the stuff! As you probably know, rye is planted in the fall (late August - mid October for Iowa food plots)

AGS mentioned above that he heard a seminar speaking say that rye isn’t a great deer food. I don’t know why a seminar spokesman would say that -- I have found that deer love it and it has almost as much crude protein during the fall and winter growth stages as alfalfa! (Winter rye protein levels average 13-20%; alfalfa averages around 19%. It is true that late-stage rye is low in digestibility and palatability -- late spring through early summer growth stages -- but that is not a time of food concern for whitetails anyway. Also, rye will tiller and can easily spread into neighboring wheat fields -- for this reason, many wheat farmers hate it. Maybe he was feeling some political pressure? I don’t know.)

Something else to keep in mind with rye is that it does have allopathic properties -- meaning it puts plant growth inhibiting chemicals into the soil. These chemicals can linger for up to 90 days post-rye. They don’t tend to significantly cut yield of legume crops (though they do lower yield some) but they do inhibit weed growth. For this reason, some farmers are using rye in soybean fields as a natural herbicide! So you do need to consider the short term crop future of the site if you plan to plant rye.

Winter wheat is similar to rye in terms of protein content, expense and planting times/methods. However, wheat is not as winter hardy as rye, goes dormant sooner, and often doesn’t stay green all winter like rye does. It also takes more water to germinate wheat seed than that of rye. Wheat likes wetter soils than rye. Rye will do better in dry soils and withstands drought better than wheat. I think deer like rye a bit better than wheat though they seem to love both!

Corn is a good food plot choice. Though it requires excellent soils and proper plant spacing for good results (you can’t just broadcast seed corn and expect good results). Deer love the stuff and eat it like candy for it’s sugar content (corn only has 9% protein on average). The carbohydrates of corn are what makes it an “energy” food and it’s the burning of the carbohydrates that help deer maintain body temperature during extreme cold.

However, corn can be hard to hunt -- deer often go in and don’t come back out! And the rate of predation by all sorts of critters on corn is high -- often there will be few, if any, ears left by January, even in larger plots on high-yield soils. Deer often eat the silks during the development stage which can really hurt the yield as well.

Alfalfa is a great deer food and is high in protein (19%). But alfalfa is high maintenance (needs to be mowed several times during summer to maintain a good stand) and requires good soils as well. It also is hard to get rid of if you ever decide to kill it off!

Hope some of this helps….jeeez, my fingers are tired!

Good Hunting…

Raven
 
Raven,

Would it matter if I planted Rye in late August vs. late September? Is there a preference to assure the rye is optimal during bow season?

Also, I have some Red Ram clover I was going to plant this spring, would it be better to frost plant it now? The area I'm going to plant it in is currently pasture ground (fescue and orchard grass). If I mowed it and Frost seeded it, could I come back in the spring and spray it with something to kill the existing grasses and weeds, but not the clover? Thanks for you help.
 
AGS,
I've listened to Raven for food plots choices except for a few trials of exotics or experiments. Food for deer, man or anything is really one of 3 things or a combo of them. Fat, protein, or carbohydrates(sugars). All contain calories to help stressed wildlife get through the winter. All produce energy but are converted differently by the body. Carbohydrates are the easiest for the body to utilize, when in excess they are converted to body fat as they are not stored in the body. Proteins are the building blocks for tissue growth. Animals search out needs by season and what is available, proteins for growth periods, etc. That can explain a change in favored foods even when the supply is not exhausted & they have to move on. Biochemistry was a long time ago, if there are any large animal vets or biologists out there they can probably explain this in better language.
 
Mathews 1,

I would plant the rye as early in the fall as possible to maximize fall stand density (though late August is about as early as you can go.) Just make sure to cover the seed lightly with a drag to ensure the best germination, to protect the seed from direct sunlight, and to keep seed predation via birds at bay. The best thing to do is to plant it right before a predicted rain, if you can. You can actually get away with just broadcasting the seed over a decent seedbed if you do so right before a multi-day period of wet weather (of course, that is hard to predict!). I think you will find rye an ideal bow season whitetail attraction! You can expect many deer to be feeding on it within 2-4 weeks after seed germination.

As to your clover situation. The red clovers will come up fast and strong the first year and should provide a good stand for 2-3 years before you’d need to re-do the plot. You can frost seed your clover into the live sod you mention. Just mow as short as possible (as you mentioned) then frost seed sometime during the 30 days or so. (I would wait until most or all of the snow is melted). I would plant at 12-15 pounds per acre for red clover on live sod.

It is impossible to say what sort of clover stand you will get this way, though, because weather factors are variable which translates into unpredictable clover/weed competition factors. Red clover is vigorous and is competitive with weeds/grasses. And, you should get a decent clover stand and a great stand is possible. You could use POAST herbicide to control intrusion of weeds/grasses. The best time to control these pests is relatively early in the year before they seed out. You can also spot-spray weeds as they come up with Round-up (this is the cheapest weed control method. And, although, clover will take a pretty good hit with Round-up and keep on ticking, it’s, obviously, best not to get any on the clover!). If you are really lucky you will not need any herbicide at all. I would just wait and see and use herbicide treatment sparingly (since POAST is pretty expensive and you may well get a decent stand of red clover the first year without it). You can also mow the plot before weeds seed out to set them back and stimulate clover growth at the same time.

If you find at the end of the season that the clover plot is not up to snuff and the weeds/grasses are taking over, I would spray it and kill everything down to the sod in September. Then just go back in and frost seed over the dead sod the next season.
The one thing about doing all of this is that it is relatively inexpensive and you will have clover each year starting with this year. The only thing you are going to lose if you end up killing the sod this fall is the $20-$25 per acre worth of wasted clover seed you plant this year and any herbicide treatment you opted to do.

Another option would be to use a plow/disc to work the soil this spring and then sew and cover the seed. However, you are still going to have a weed issue to deal with (as you probably know, the disking alone will promote weed growth, and even if you plow you will still have live weed seeds in the dirt that will germinate). Also, spring planted clover will not be as competitive with weeds as it would be if it was frost seeded. So going this route is a lot more work and potentially much more expensive for what in all likelihood will be a similar stand of clover to what it would be if you just frost seeded into live sod!

I hope some of this help you and good luck with your plot! (I would recommend a soil test and avoiding droughty upland clay-based soils with any clover if you can.)

Raven
 
Plant your beans one or two weeks later than surrounding farmers and they'll carry you a little later. Don't leave corn out completely, with a good stand stalks/ears will still be peaking out of the snow when legumes and rye are hard to dig for. I've also seen fields late summer 1/2 corn 1/2 beans and the top 1/2 of ears will be gone along with the tops gone out of the beans, no clear preference,so don't discount corn. Also, when corn harvest is late, guys have found bedding areas right in middle of corn fields. You could plant corn later into frost-seeded clover. Not sure what type of ground you're putting plots on, but with any slope you should look at planting in strips for erosion control. Your grasses are currently at least giving you that and deer will still consume them. That's why I like interseeding. A question I have, maybe for Raven, is if sorghum or sorghum/sudan grass has any value? And what about sweet clover? Very tall, Very thick. The best pheasant hunting we ever had was on patches of sweet clover seeded into CRP. I think there's security and nesting cover and they would be full of seeds.
 
Hunt-m-up:

That is a great point you made about planting soybeans later than others in the area!

To take that to the extreme I would say, too, that a good friend of mine claims that whitetails really love beans that mature after the first frost (which often means planting them in late June or even the first week in July!) Of course, something to keep in mind, is that yields (amount of deer food) drop the later one plants. And one might run into dry weather and germination problems if one waits this late to plant.

The sorghum/sudan grass mixture is a good one for upland birds and turkeys. They like the cover of the grass and the seed heads of the grain. This plot also the advantages of being inexpensive to plant and is tolerant of many soil types. However, I wouldn't rate it as a top food plot choice for whitetails. Not that it isn't decent -- it is that. They'll bed in it and eat the grain. But whitetails usually don't hit sorghum much until late winter into early spring or in times of very heavy snow, when other grain or more preferred food items are unavailable or are snow-covered.

Sweet cover? It's a good one for upland birds. It grows fast (gets to about waist high), has a deep tap root (does well on dryer soils) and has lots of seeds that game birds do eat. It also is about 20% protein in its early growth stages. (A biologist in Kansas seeds a 2/1 mix of sweet and red clover to obtain a two-tiered habitat level of food and overhead canopy cover for upland birds.)

Whitetails will browse sweet clover early in the year, before it gets big and tough. But the general consensus, from what I've seen and heard, is that whitetails prefer the white clovers (such as ladino) better.

Good Hunting.....Raven
 
Good post, thanks for the detailed replies from Raven especially, they are helpful.

I agree with the idea about purposely planting the beans late. One of my all time best deer hunts was overlooking a July 4th planted beanfield that was still greenish during the early muzzleloader season. That field was being hammered by the deer and I had a perfect setup going as I could sneak down a fenceline from the road and then hide in between two round bales strategically located. I lie not when I say I had many deer within 10 feet of me at times. Doe or buck, it is a rush to have deer that close and not be aware of your presence!

We have also had good success with sorghum, sometimes as many as 30-40 deer out milling around in the patch with plenty of daylight left. Oh, once the does key in on a field like that the bucks then tend to follow.
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