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Cereal Grains and cover crops

I would think mowing high couldn't hurt. Like deer eating it off. Paul said one time that deer browse cereal rye till about 12" high. Protein level drops after that.
 
goatman said:
I would think mowing high couldn't hurt. Like deer eating it off. Paul said one time that deer browse cereal rye till about 12" high. Protein level drops after that.
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I am afraid to touch it with colder temps in a few weeks plus how will the peas and radishes react?
 
Peas and radish are both "forage" technically. Can take some abuse. This is one of those scenarios with cost/benefit for sure. Weighing it out. If ur rye is extremely tall & looking like it's not being touched - I might consider it. It's going to set everything else back for sure. Pics be helpful and if I saw em I'd be happy to say what I'd do based on pics if it were mine. Based on a "guess"- I'm leaning towards not mowing IMO but picture will speak for itself if able.
 
Man, that's a really tough one. Ok- last photo, which is October 4 - obviously the most recent growth. Of course the other pics are nothing close to needing mowed but Those are early. Now- from what I see in the pic with taller rye - I don't see peas or radish real thick in there. Hardly notice them.
If they are thicker than I see or notice- I personally would not mow. If it's essentially all rye- I might take a "few inches off". Thankfully- u r kinda splitting hairs and on fence. U r in MN so gonna get colder faster than down here too so I have to adjust my thinking some. Hmmm- if it's mainly all rye, warm ahead- I'd do it soon if ur gonna. Post results. Good luck!
 
Sligh1 said:
Man, that's a really tough one. Ok- last photo, which is October 4 - obviously the most recent growth. Of course the other pics are nothing close to needing mowed but Those are early. Now- from what I see in the pic with taller rye - I don't see peas or radish real thick in there. Hardly notice them. If they are thicker than I see or notice- I personally would not mow. If it's essentially all rye- I might take a "few inches off". Thankfully- u r kinda splitting hairs and on fence. U r in MN so gonna get colder faster than down here too so I have to adjust my thinking some. Hmmm- if it's mainly all rye, warm ahead- I'd do it soon if ur gonna. Post results. Good luck!
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Exactly x2
 
There should be plenty of peas and radishes in there. Did the same as Dbltree said with 50# rye, 50# oats, 50# peas and 5# GHFR and red clover.

I will be headed down there Friday. There are actually 2 plots about the same size . Maybe I will mow about 1/2 of each plot and see what happens??? I don't know yet...
 
I'm on the "mow" bandwagon, as long as the forecast says it will get several growing days right off the bat. That rye will continue to grow on most warm days all the way thru November as long as there's not a real deep freeze, so I'd be taking a chance in order to get some sunlight to your more valuable winter forage.

Figure out an avg height on peas and radish and mow above that, maybe?
 
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Agreed....you could go either way. Leave it alone.... or else just mow it high to stimulate new growth. Are you seeing deer avoiding this field due to rye being too mature?
Curious what your per-acre seed mix was? Just doesn't look like much radishes and peas growing in there.
 
How high does rye have to be before the deer will avoid it? I really hate mowing it this time of year especially with the peas and radishes. My pull behind will only go 5 - 6 inches high.
 
I'd suggest looking in the field for signs of browsing....or not. Even a camera set on field scan would give you a good idea of usage. If they're avoiding the field, then mowing might be best option. But they also may be using it just fine...and you don't need to do anything besides get some stands hung and go hunt it!!
 
I haven't been down to the farm since Sept 20th. My dad was down there last weekend and took that picture of the field. I do have a plot watcher set up on each plot. Also that picture was taken from an area where deer do not come out so maybe the field is being used further into the plot. Either way I will check the field and the plot watchers. I believe my pull behind can mow 8" high on max setting. Guess it will have to be a judgement call based on my findings. Thanks for the input.
 
Just a reminder of DblTree's Drought Mix for those of you struggling with failed plots and lack of moisture. You should be able to get some decent germination if soil temps stay above 55-60ish and you get moisture. Obviously don't expect significant growth this late in the year, but something is better than bare fields (sorry, can't find Paul's original posting to link). In a pinch, I would probably just go with straight winter rye.

Drought Mix

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas only 100-200#'s of urea may be needed but first time plantings may need to be fertilized and limed as the noted for the brassicas.
 
Has anybody substituted alfalfa for the red clover in this Mix ? I was thinking of trying it ? I have a hill top that has just been a son of a buck to get going because of moisture.. I'm think of possibly planting Alfa Rack in this mix and was wondering if it would work ? Does any body know the grazing alfalfa in Alfa Rack I my be able to get separate I know I need something with good root system in this plot just to dry.. Thanks Guys
 
Jbohn said:
Has anybody substituted alfalfa for the red clover in this Mix ? I was thinking of trying it ? I have a hill top that has just been a son of a buck to get going because of moisture.. I'm think of possibly planting Alfa Rack in this mix and was wondering if it would work ? Does any body know the grazing alfalfa in Alfa Rack I my be able to get separate I know I need something with good root system in this plot just to dry.. Thanks Guys
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Yep. Be fine. I've done legumes all the way from reds, whites, alsike, trefoil, sanfoin & alfalfa all with success. Dry areas if u wanted other options to alfalfa is red & Alice white clover. I do those with alfalfa often. Alfalfa prefers baling vs mowing but if u cut more often be ok. (If bale, make sure u keep up with p&k & ph levels.
 
Starting the dbltree rotation this fall in a new 2.5 acre plot. What can I plant now in prep for it...is there anything outside the mix that I can do now the might help with weeds or grasses and can be tilled under? It is only a couple months until I would start so maybe do nothing but just be extra diligent about prepping the site until then.
 
arm said:
Starting the dbltree rotation this fall in a new 2.5 acre plot. What can I plant now in prep for it...is there anything outside the mix that I can do now the might help with weeds or grasses and can be tilled under? It is only a couple months until I would start so maybe do nothing but just be extra diligent about prepping the site until then.
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You could till it now and go with something easy, cheap and quick like oats for the next 2-3 months. If you are going full Dbltree rotation, then I would envision something like this for you...

1/3 of the plot - Clover, which is most easily established by planting a clover/rye mix in the late summer of the year and then terminating the rye the following spring...or not. You can alternatively just let the rye grow and then die off on it's own next summer...at which point you will have a beautiful clover field emerge.

1/3 of the plot - brassicas in the fall, then rotated into something like berseem clover for 3-4 months next spring until you rotate into a clover/rye mix late next summer. Aim to plant in late-July, early-August.

1/3 of the plot - clover/mix late this summer, late-August, early-September and then brassicas go in late July next year.

You could also "short time" some beans in right now and then there is something growing now that is also adding nitrogen to the soil and feeding deer too.
 
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Daver said:
You could till it now and go with something easy, cheap and quick like oats for the next 2-3 months. If you are going full Dbltree rotation, then I would envision something like this for you... 1/3 of the plot - Clover, which is most easily established by planting a clover/rye mix in the late summer of the year and then terminating the rye the following spring...or not. You can alternatively just let the rye grow and then die off on it's own next summer...at which point you will have a beautiful clover field emerge. 1/3 of the plot - brassicas in the fall, then rotated into something like berseem clover for 3-4 months next spring until you rotate into a clover/rye mix late next summer. Aim to plant in late-July, early-August. 1/3 of the plot - clover/mix late this summer, late-August, early-September and then brassicas go in late July next year. You could also "short time" some beans in right now and then there is something growing now that is also adding nitrogen to the soil and feeding deer too.
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Excellent advice I've done both of these options in similar circumstances. Quick cheap and easy.
 
Thanks guys. I'm going to try RR beans. Worse case scenario, they've all been eaten up but I've keep the area good and killed.
 
Everything with this rotation is spot on, but by experience I would not let the rye just die on its own. I have done it a couple of times but depending on what you use for machinery the dried up rye can make a real problem trying to disk everything up and getting it ready for the next crop. Just my .02.
 
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