Buck Hollow Sporting Goods - click or touch to visit their website Midwest Habitat Company

Apple/Pear Trees

deep woods goat hunter said:
What do you do for fertilizer IBH?
Click to expand...
For Apples:

year 1 (3 weeks after planting): 1/2 pound 19-19-19
year 2: 1# 19-19-19 mid march & 1# urea 40-0-0 late May
year 3+: 1# urea 40-0-0 late March & 1# urea 40-0-0 late May

get treated urea if you can. If you cant get that work it into soil or water it in.

I have also used slow release fertilizer spikes, but only when crunched for time. Not cost affective at all. If only doing 3 trees, probably OK. When you get hundreds... not so much.
 
IowaBowHunter1983 said:
For Apples:

year 1 (3 weeks after planting): 1/2 pound 19-19-19
year 2: 1# 19-19-19 mid march & 1# urea 40-0-0 late May
year 3+: 1# urea 40-0-0 late March & 1# urea 40-0-0 late May

get treated urea if you can. If you cant get that work it into soil or water it in.

I have also used slow release fertilizer spikes, but only when crunched for time. Not cost affective at all. If only doing 3 trees, probably OK. When you get hundreds... not so much.
Click to expand...
How do you apply it? Do you just sprinkle it under the drip line or probe it into ground with a broomstick?
Sorry, First timer here...
 
With mulch- u likely only need Water only when gets “bad”. I’d likely wanna hit with fungicides & possibly an insecticide that covers mites. Ya- won’t be that long til u have fruit.
 
Read back a little. Off top of my head.... Myclobutinyl, captan, copper & couple others are extremely good.
Bifenthrin for broad spectrum. Floramite, Abamectin & id read into other specific miticides for spider mites if they get bad (floramite is really good). U will use so little - finding cheap & small qty be the only issue ;) . Rotate some things u use from year to year.

Last things .... (always something!) - when u do have good fruit down the road. do some “coon control” by trees. ;). Read back on protecting trunks with screen from rabbits as well.
 
SB3 said:
took a wild guess, read a couple different web sites. theyre semi vigorous, look to have good disease resistance. Burnt Ridge out of WA state had some they'd ship to me by 3/15. Looks really easy so we'll see how it goes.

If I collect scions in mid feb. can i store them in the fridge for up to a month?
Click to expand...

Here's an update on my 1st apple grafting experience, Burnt Ridge Nursery sent me a dozen M111 rootstock instead of the M116 they originally told (good thing) I used the whip and tongue method and did this on April 19th. After I matched up the rootstock and scion I wrapped a rubber band around the graft and used electrical tape to cover the entire area. I didn't have as many good scions as I thought, my trees are only a couple years old and wasn't able to collect decent cuttings so I have 7 currently grafted and planted the rootstock in the ground for future use. Worked out really good, I see green on 5 out of 7 so far. The Goldrush was first to leaf out, then the Jonafree
20190517_100658_resized.jpg
20190517_100719_resized.jpg
20190517_100735_resized.jpg
20190517_100917_resized.jpg
 
Sligh1 said:
Bro sent me this and I think I missed it a couple years ago. He was asking me about a couple varieties on here & also about adding Arkansas black & tonnage per acre from fruit. I did not know the figures but Erik barber & Eli Cook did article on MW. I read the figures on tonnage per acre. Holy smokes!!! 42,000 lbs per acre when done “properly”. Yes, yes- takes time and care but DANG!!! Once established- will repeat for years where we all know the insane prices to replant crops each year to also “do them right”. Pretty incredible...
http://www.midwestwhitetail.com/fruit-plots-apple-orchards/
Click to expand...

Just read this article, holy crap, lot of info and things that you can do to help get them started. I only planted 3 trees but I guess ill try and do some of these things tomorrow.
Do any of you really paint the trunks white with the pepper flakes?????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
SB3- please keep posting updates!!!! Those look great! What’s the plan on what u gonna grow em in, how long & when u planting them? If keep in pots- take look at rootmaker stuff. They have 5-15 gallon plastic molded pots or root trapper bags made to giant sizes. Both great if not planting for years but u likely gonna get in ground before then.

Yes- paint & pepper works!! Likely paint alone would be fine. I think I’m going to transition some of mine to paint. Screens do need to be maintained and checked on. The pepper obviously helps for critters wanting to eat bark. The white paint has benefits beyond pests, it helps cool the younger tree’s trunks from excessive heat.
 
I was planning to move these from the small containers to 3 gal buckets after they get more growth maybe in a month. I was going to see what they look like this fall and either keep them inside till spring or go ahead and get them in the ground, not sure. What would you recommend?

My original plan was to move them up to the farm eventually but now I'm thinking I'll keep these around the house.
 
I’d do rootmaker pots. 5 gallon. The air root pruning, design & drainage of those pots is gonna be substantially better. If u can plant em in fall u might be a lil better off imo.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SB3
I have 30 apples and 10 pears in the same situation as SB3. I have moved mine into 2 gallon root pouches with intentions of planting most of them this fall and giving a few away. Once I have confirmed the graft has taken should I be removing any growth from below the graft? If the graft has taken should I eliminate all but one bud on the scion? Or should I allow it to just grow how it is and improve root growth the first year? Should this be done right away or should I wait a little while?
 
williams111 said:
I have 30 apples and 10 pears in the same situation as SB3. I have moved mine into 2 gallon root pouches with intentions of planting most of them this fall and giving a few away. Once I have confirmed the graft has taken should I be removing any growth from below the graft? If the graft has taken should I eliminate all but one bud on the scion? Or should I allow it to just grow how it is and improve root growth the first year? Should this be done right away or should I wait a little while?
Click to expand...
U don’t want any branches coming out from graft. U want the roots but not the branches. I just trim the excess growth each winter/spring during pruning. The scion - it’s likely pretty short - just let it go for 1st year. Look up central leader pruning. U want it to grow tall with strong central leader. U have time & can prune in the winter/early spring to work on shaping it.
 
I don’t think so because it’s in a high fence area but I suppose they could be jumping s low spot which is still 6’


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom