Broadcasting Brassicas into Tall standing weeds....

Discussion in 'Iowa Whitetail Conference' started by Irishlax1, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. Irishlax1

    Irishlax1 New Member

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    Due to work and my 4 boys sports travel I have not had any time to get to the farm this summer. I've never been this late. I would still like to plant my annual brassicas. Would it be possible to drive my rhino through the 5' cluster of weeds and then have one of my boys sit in the back and broadcast into what I just ran over? After, I would attach the cultipacker and drive over the entire 4 acres. Then load my bed mounted sprayer and gly the field. My concern is the seed won't make contact. Has anyone tried this into such high standing weeds? Results? I hate trying to plow this late given all that moisture will be released as well as mowing the high weeds will just leave a ton of trash on the surface making discing that much more difficult.
    thanks in advance! -T
     
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  3. Slick

    Slick Member

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    Similar to what you are talking about but probably not as thick as your situation. Watch from 1:10 to 2:00
     
  4. Irishlax1

    Irishlax1 New Member

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    Yes, I watched that and honestly it's what gave me the idea. Question is do you think my weeds are too thick. It would be a combination of weeds and WR that has grown as well. Where ever there isn't WR there will be weeds.
     
  5. Daver

    Daver PMA Member

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    I have done similar things in the past with at least fair, if not good to very good, success. Here is the key, no matter the variables...you have to get that tiny seed on the soil. If you broadcast into somewhat to very thick, tall weeds you are not likely to get a lot of seed down through the mess. If however, you broadcast into a tall, but thin stand of weeds, thin as in you can see the soil below, then you could be just fine. But most times, tall weeds are going to block your seed and severely limit your success.

    Without being able to see your exact situation...I would probably do the following.
    1. Mow it fairly short.
    2. Broadcast your seed over the newly mowed field. Yes, there is going to be plenty of "duff" present that will catch a lot of the seed. Go a little bit heavier on the seed because you are going to lose some by not hitting perfectly bare ground. But...don't overdo it here, it is easy to get brassicas on too thick. I would add maybe an extra pound or two of seed per acre.
    3. Spread your treated Urea. (Treated so as not to evaporate while laying on the surface of the soil. Don't use untreated urea if you cannot incorporate it into the soil.) Brassicas really need N, so don't skip this step.
    4. KEY STEP HERE...drag the field...even two times if it is really thick duff on top. This is will "shake" the suspended seeds, and fertilizer granules, from the mowed grass residue that is likely to be blanketing the soil and cause them to drop through and get to the soil surface. You could alternatively mow the field again here in lieu of dragging. You just need a method to shake that tiny seed down through the duff and onto the soil surface. If you are going to mow twice, then your first mowing trip in step #1 above could be to mow it "medium" and then mow it short on the second pass.
    5. Spray the remaining grass with gly to kill that off.

    Ideally, you can get a nice rain or two on it just following this process. If you get that seed on the soil surface though, you should be golden. When properly executed...I would argue that the process above is just as good, perhaps better than, the normal process where the fertilizer is tilled in and then the seed is spread on bare dirt, etc. If you get those seeds down to the ground, then the remaining duff will act as mulch and hold moisture for you and keep the sun from baking the bare soil, etc.

    I have done the above process, with slight variations, probably 5-7 times through the years...sometimes, like you, due to time limitations, but also, like this year again, because of trying to accommodate very dry soil conditions. Once again, my area is very dry now at this time of the year and conventional tilling can be a pretty rough go and tough on the tractor too AND nothing dries out the soil more than eliminating all of the residue and tilling it bare. If there aren't many/any good August/September rains then you can certainly get a brassica failure even when "doing it right" and tilling the soil and making a perfect seed bed, etc. The "throw and mow" method is more of a hedge against continued dry weather anyway.
     
  6. Irishlax1

    Irishlax1 New Member

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    Thanks! This is very helpful and I APPRECIATE your experience here.
     
  7. Daver

    Daver PMA Member

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    You are welcome. FWIW, I make a point of trying to explain as best I can what I have learned/experienced through the years. I am not a professional in this area, but I do now have many years of experience and try to share what I know as others did for me in the past. I knew nothing about any of these things "x" number of years ago and was fortunate to learn a lot from various people, but no one more than Paul Knox(known on this site as Dbltree. He also was known as Lick Creek on some other sites.) A great deal of my understanding came via reading the many posts here on IW and I try to continue to provide info to others who are just learning, etc.

    In case you did not know, Paul passed away about 3 years ago, but not before sharing his incredible knowledge and expertise on all manner of habitat improvements, not just food plots. I was very grateful to be able to become friends with Paul, as his properties were fairly close to mine at the time and we also just had a lot of things in common as people. Almost anything that I will share here comes with some amount of actual, personal experience, but I also trust that others will share their insights too...even when we may not be perfectly aligned on a given subject. While I am glad to share what I know, I also hope that anyone that reads what I write and knows better, will share their experiences and thoughts too. We can all learn from each other that way.

    FWIW...at my own farm, it is very dry again now at this time of the year and the remaining brassica plantings I will do will likely be a variant of the "mow and throw" method...as I will be facing dry, hard soils that I do not wish to wear out my PTO on tilling them up and leaving dust behind...hoping for rain. I have already mowed them fairly short and sprayed them to kill them off. So I will broadcast the brassica seed and treated fertilizer and then just run a drag over it all a time or two...and hope for some timely rains. Good luck in your endeavors and be sure to post back what you learned!
     
  8. Tmayer13

    Tmayer13 PMA Member

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    All no till for me from here on out...now i was fortunate to catch about 3" of rain within a week of planting my brassicas but nothing since...I will check on the plots this weekend and report back...So from here on out i will be planting either rye or buckwheat every spring, the terminating and broadcasting turnips into it...id be my plots look pretty good right now but id bet they would 10 fold better had i gone no till
     
  9. Daver

    Daver PMA Member

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    Curious...what did you do for fertilizer on the "mow and throw" brassicas?
     
  10. Tmayer13

    Tmayer13 PMA Member

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    Daver i should have said that this is my last year for the tilling packing seeding packing process. next year when i go no till i will either use treated urea, hope the rye scavenges enough N or wait and spread before a rain.....in a perfect scenario i would spread my urea and seed, the roll my "cover crop" spray, the day before a rain and be all good
     

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