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Broadhead Tuning 101

Crimson Arrows

Well-Known Member
A few had mentioned starting a thread on this, so with the middle of winter upon us, thought I'd add this thread for anybody interested in a step-by-step approach to tuning yor bow to shoot broadheads more accurately.

Even if you love mechanicals-your set-up will be better and more effecient if your tuned.

I ALWAYS hated when people would say "your not tuned."

Well,,,,what the h$ll does that mean anyway.

So, heres a quick way to tune indoors or out for better flight and forgiveness :)

Broadhead Tuning 101

1) Buy a spinner, pretty cheap, and check each arrow with BH to make sure its spins true. May be the insert, arrow etc, but if off wont fly straight. Also make sure spine is OK per chart etc.

2) Remove field point and draw back. If your arrow doesnt stay on your rest as you hit full draw you have nock pinch...not good. Loosen the nick diameter in loop and add a small piece of serving under nock. Will allow for downward pressure and no pinch.

3) Then, start with paper and get as close to perfect as you can, but dont go crazy if JUST a bit of a tear. If you have a big tear, move the rest IN THE DIRECTION OF THE FIELD TIP to correct.

Here is a decent tear above (what you want at about 6 feet), vs below :(

2012-01-18_12-43-47_58.jpg


To correct below, move rest to the right by 1/16" to start.
2012-01-14_15-27-29_118.jpg

3) Then....Modified Walk back tune (heres a simple way for winter)

Shoot at 3 yards (9 ft) and sight in arrow with pins to hit just below the "X" on a bale

Then move back to 20 yards and aim at same point with same pin. If off a bit right...DO NOT MOVE YOUR PIN.

MOVE THE REST

Move the rest a smidge (1/16") to the left if miss right of first arrow.

And if miss left, move rest to the right.

Then go back to 9 feet and shoot at X again, eventually, the 20 yard arrow will be perfectly in-line with the 9 foot arrow, but higher. Then sight in for 20 yards with your pin and your done.

Once you get this, and arrows spin true with BH attached, no nock pinch and good spine you have accomplished a solid tune:

Your Center shot will be perfect and you can test that with a fixed blade, which should hit same spot as field point. If just off, again, move rest in direction of field tipped arrows...always chase the fieldpoints.

B) Mechanicals or FBBH...doesnt matter now as you are tuned and can shoot anything you want-I often tune with big fixed heads....

2012-01-19_16-21-55_917.jpg


...or arrows with no flecthing (see far left arrow).

If your off, that arrow goes crazy. But if your tuned...you can shoot right with the fletched AND KNOW THAT THE PATH OF THE STRING IS DIRECTLY IN LINE WITH THE SHAFT :)

2012-01-14_15-39-04_208.jpg


:)
 
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No problem guys and sorry I just got back on this thread.

Cooter: Nock point is only a piece of the puzzle, as the arrow rest with also determine at what level the arrow is. I usually start out by having the arrow stright from nock to rest, going through the berger hole (hole on riser).

That is only a start....

So if you shoot through paper and get a severe high or low tear, you can either...
move the rest OR move the nock.

Rest is easier so that is what I do first and always fix vertical errors first.

I used to think you had to align it perfectly straight of the string, but now I just eyeball it because likely...I will have to change based on what paper or broadheads tell me.

Next, see what paper look like and then the real test-fixed blade broadheads.

They will tell you for sure if the arrow is properly aligned.

For instance, you have leveled the arrow off the string and it looks perfect but Fixed BH are hitting 4" high of your field points. Most guys will move the sight to get their broadheads to hit perfect in the "X" but....... Not the right thing to do.....

Bottom line is something in the vertical spectrum is off.......

Remember...Always chase the fieldpoints so...I drop the rest 1/16" and see what happens. Most likely, the BH and FP are now almost touching or at least closer and once they are THEN YOU CHANGE THE SIGHT PINS.

You now look at your rest and it shows the arrow is nock high (tilts down a bit).

That is 100% fine and where your bow tunes best for FBBH or mechanicals.

Your done :)
 
This is awesome.. You mentioned to me in a post last summer ,I think, about moving my rest a little to match my broadheads to my fieldtips and it really helps to have this written down step-by-step.. I'll definately being looking this up when I get the bow out again this spring. Thanks Eyad
 
For anyone that has ever had tuning problems...this is a boat load of helpful information. Great job on explaining! Definate bookmark
 
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