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"ROUNDUP"

HUSKERBUCK

HUSKERBUCK

PMA Member
Since the number of posts reguarding food plots has increased it made me think of something. In alot of the posts it is mentioned to use ROUNDUP on you plots as a burndown. Since I do this for a living I thought I would give everone some advice. Please dont buy "ROUNDUP". Go to a farm supply store or you local COOP and ask for a "loaded" generic glyfosate. This is the same exact thing as ROUNDUP. I can assure if you buy "ROUNDUP" you will just be wasting somewhere in the neighborhood of $50 to $75 for every 2 1/2 gallons, in addition to making Monsanto a little richer.. Generic glyfosate should cost you around $20 to $25 per gallon compared to $50 to $60 for "ROUNDUP" and it is the same exact thing. Dont let anyone sell you anything to go with it but some ammonium sulfate. This helps correct hard water problems with spraying glyfosate. Hope I can save someone some $$$. If you have anymore questions just ask.
 
HuskerBuck,

Thanks for the " heads up ". I know Roundup is a bit more expensive.... but most people I have talked with about ussing such chemicals for a burn-down or spraying RR Beans, still say to use the Roundup... in particular.. the weather max!! Are They just digging deeper into my wallet then they should?? What about the use of "Crop-oils" and other such additives they have tried to sell me? I have had some good sprays and some not so good sprays... either way they all ways seem to have the reason and it ussualy includes some more of my $$ one way or the other. Any pointers on applications would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

Woody
 
I used the generic glycophosphate (sp?)on 2 acres of roundup ready beans that were weed infested pretty bad. It worked great. Bought 5 gallons from Farm & Home for around $60. cf
 
A couple of years ago at the yearly pestacide applicators continueing education program the ISU Extension or IDALS or what ever the proper anacronym is for that group is any more they had done a study and found no difference between generic glyphosate and Round Up. I suppose there were qualifiers but the State dude said generic is good.

I use alot of round up, at least I think I do, around the buildigs and fenceposts, makes it easeier to mow. I have very hard water, will I get better results if I add the Amonium Sulfate? Does it mix better? What is the reason to use it? How cheap is it? Where do I get it?

Thanks

The 'Bonker
 
In my opinion Woody they are just getting a few more of your $$$. They are giving you what you ask for and it works. But they could sell you something else for less $$$. Farmers use WeatherMax on RR beans because of the programs and rebates they offer. All you are doing by using weathermax is spending more of your $$$ and making Monsanto a little bit richer. As for the crop oil question, a "loaded" glyfosate already has it in it. If it has been hot and dry for a while you may want to add a little crop oil to your spray but if you have had good growing conditions and the weeds and grass are 8 inches or less the glyfosate will do the job.
When spraying roundup you should always add ammonium sulfate to the tank. "Roundup" does not like the minerals in hard water and this helps that problem. It comes in dry and liquid formulations. I would reccommend that you buy a 2 1/2 gallon jug of it. That should last you a while. It is more $$$ that the dry but it is worth it for the ease of handling in situation. You probably will have to get this from a chemical dealer such as the local COOP. Another important thing is be sure to use enough water to get good coverage of what ever you are spraying. Hope this helps out. Just ask away if you need anything else.

One other thing, always read the labels on the jugs of your chemicals. Everything you need to know is on them.
 
Huskerbuck,

Have you had any experience with wick application trying to hit the taller weeds over a clover patch?

Old Buck
 
Waukon
Yes Cornerstone is a generic roundup without the "crop oil" in it. Cornerstone Plus is the "loaded" product.

Old Buck,
You can try it but I really dont think it will work the best. I assume you are after broadleaf weeds and not grass. If the broadleaf weeds are over about 12 inches they are really hard to kill using a wick wiper. One thing you could try is to shred the weeds just over the top of the clover that may help.
 
Still not clear on glyphosate vs glyphosate with crop oil vs loaded glyphosate. Could you tell me what cirrcumsatnces call for regular glyphosate, oiled glyphosate and loaded glyphosate?

Thanks again, this is great!

The 'Bonker
 
Bonker, sorry for not making myself clearer. Its just that I deal with this stuff every day, you know how that is. There are basiclly two types of glyfosate, "plain" and "loaded". There are also many names that the same exact product are called. Some of them are Roundup, Rattler, Glystar, Buccanear, and Cornerstone just to name a few. All of these products contain the same exact active ingredient. The "loaded" products usually have "Plus" in the name. Such as CornerStone Plus as I mentioned in a previous post. These "Plus" products already have a type of crop oil in them when you buy them where as the others dont and it needs to be added.
Now I will really confuse you. The "plus" products dont really contain crop oil. I just used that because it was mentioned before and thought it would be easier for everyone to understand. They actually contain a "surfactant" which is a soap like product that helps the "roundup" spread out on the leaves of the plant instead of making a big droplet thus getting better coverage.
My advice, buy a "loaded" glyfosate, it will usually have "Plus" in the name. Also buy an ammonium sulfate product to got with it. Read the lables and that is all you need besides good old H20.
Now that that is clear as mud and I have confused everyone to the point of no return please keep asking if you dont understand or have anyother questions.
 
Thanks for the Help HuskerBuck.. Im still in the trial and error faze of farming/ food plots. Having lots of fun though. But Im definately interested in saving some money anywhere I can
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Woody
 
Old Buck
One thing that I forgot to mention. If you do use a wiper be sure to hit the weed from both directions. This will help get more chemical on the weed. Also, go slow enough so that the wick is in contact with the weed for a longer period of time. Be careful that you dont go too slow that your wick drips. That doesnt sound good does it.
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A dripping wick is never a good thing.
 
I think I have it, "plus" is a surfactant that lowers the surface tension of the droplets letting them spread out easier and achive better penatration, oil helps the herbacide stick to the leaf but doesn't help with the penatration and amonium sulfate helps stabilze the mixture in hard water.

Do I got it?

Thanks again.

The 'Bonker
 
Wow Huskerbuck! This is like Ag phD. Is your last name Hefty
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How about you do a "weed of the week" for us
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Hunt on All4s
 
OK, one more question and I'll quit buggin you. Under what condition would you use surfact instead of oil and vice versa? I'm guessing oil in dry hot conditions and surfactant in normal to wet? And if you already answered that question call me an idiot and I'll review the posts.

Thanks again

The 'Bonker
 
Huskerbuck,

Thanks for the info. I'm going down in a few days and will check to see how it worked. Didn't seem like I was able to get alot of chemical on the weeds so I'm not real optomistic. As you suggested, mowing has really helped in the past, I just like to keep looking for new and better ways of doing things. Looks like this probably isn't one of those
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.

Old Buck
 
Not a problem at all Bonker. ALWAYS use a surfactant. It is just easier if you buy the "Plus" version of a chemical because the surfactant is already in with the chemical. Use a crop oil with it when the conditions are a little tough. Such as drought or bigger weeds. What the crop oil actually does is when it gets on the leaves of the plant is causes the pores of the plant to open up a bit more thus allowing the plant to take in more of the "roundup". This is why you use it when the weeds are bigger or the weeds are under stress due to drought. When any plant is under stress such as drought they shut down to conserve moisture until the next rain. They are much harder to kill when they are under stress, thus you add a little crop oil to help stack the odds in your favor.
 
OK I lied, I have another question. I use 2,4-d Amine(I think it is Amine not ester, the jug is out in the shed and I'm not) around the place for broad leaves. When I'm going after fence line brush, thistles, poison ivy or mfr (mf can stand for what ever you want but the r is for rose) I mix in either Crossbow (which alreay has 2,4-d in it) or Tordon 22k. Should I also add surfactant to this? I'm now clear on the oil issue and will add that if the conditons are nasty. What should I look for on the lable to see if it has surfactant in it already?

Thanks again, you are most helpful, I'd insert clapping hands dude here, but my connection is so slow I'd be sitting here for alot longer than it took to type this.

The 'Bonker
 
Bonker
Usually with those products there is no need to add anything with them. However, if the weeds are under drought stress it would not hurt to add a little surfactant with it. You DO NOT want to use crop oil with these chemicals. What can happen is the crop oil can cause the leaves to rapidly "burn" and then the leave wont take in the chemical.
As for what products already have surfactant in them. The glyfosate "Plus" is the only one that I can think of right now.
 
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