Switchgrass

Discussion in 'Dbltree's corner' started by dbltree, Jan 29, 2006.

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  1. Austin

    Austin New Member

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    Mine is few and far between.. the grass on the other hand!

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  3. Jbohn

    Jbohn Active Member

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    I had some coming up a few weeks ago. Seed bed still looked good besides some broad leafs .. I’ll look next year it’s better for my sanity :)


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  4. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

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    PAAAATTTTIIEEENNNNCCCCCEEEEE!!!!! If u don’t see some coming up in next 2 weeks or so- ok- there may be an issue. But this is still pretty common timing for just starting to see it.
     
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  5. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

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    Made this vid today to show variety of switch field. Can see spots coming in like crazy & some Areas not coming in much. Some areas with weed pressure & some without. Reminder- don’t spray 2,4-d unless switch is at least 6” tall & several stems. For my example here- I’d simply mow. & last reminder- if u don’t see some yet- don’t worry. It’s coming or u will know in about 2-3 weeks. If u way up north, could add week or two to calendar. This was planted late winter & first that’s up. Some other spots aren’t up yet but they coming.
     
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  6. Austin

    Austin New Member

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    Just mowed my frost seeded switchgrass tonight. Quite a bit of weeds and grass but alot of switch grass has germinated in the last week.. a week or two ago I was on my hands and knees looking. Tonight there was 6-10" plants all over

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  7. Austin

    Austin New Member

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    In your video where it's coming in really thick in rows, what seeding rate per acre is that? Mine was frost seeded but is nowhere near that thick.

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  8. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

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    I ran that at like 10-11 lbs. really heavy. U don’t need it that thick. The stuff where it’s more sparse- it’ll keep filling in. If u got plants coming in, u should be in good shape.
     
  9. Blaine

    Blaine Member

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    Wow! Great looking stand of switch. I'm envious. Thanks for sharing. My biggest problem is always foxtail. Will quinclorac harm new seedlings or can it be sprayed any time?
     
  10. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

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    Be just fine. Kinda treat quinclorac like 2,4-d... let it get up 6-8” before u spray. Quinclorac needs methylated seed oil as well. Foxtail sucks - might even be combo of spraying & later on mowing it high. Very well worth it to make sure this switch doesn’t get choked. These last 45 days are critical to making sure switch doesn’t get smothered.
     
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  11. Austin

    Austin New Member

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    Can quinclorac and 24d be sprayed at the same time or should they be spaced out between sprayings?

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  12. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

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    I’d check label on that one for mixing those 2.
     
  13. DUG

    DUG New Member

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    Anyone ever use Drive XLR8 on switch to control foxtail? I can't find anywhere on the label that mentions switchgrass but it's mode of action is quinclorac.
     
  14. Blaine

    Blaine Member

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    I've never used it, but it's just quinclorac. I'd go for it. I ordered some Drive 75df. It's quinclorac in a 1 lb granular bottle. Each 1 lb bottle does 1 acre. I was a little hesitant about getting it mixed and measured correctly, but it was very easy. Quite a bit cheaper than liquid and much easier to ship and store.
     
  15. Brian Konynenbelt

    Brian Konynenbelt New Member

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    Newbie here. Read a few pages of these posts, and have planted switch in the past but have not done much frost seeding. I’d like to frost seed into killed grass. I’ll kill with the usuals in the fall (gly, 2,4d or oust), seed in the winter, and spray again in the spring. Questions. To reduce work (I have small kids, you dads understand the time commitment), can I get away with not tilling the soil after the burn in the fall? I’d like to frost seed into the killed sod. If I do that, should I increase seed rate (greater than 5-6 lbs/acre?). Thanks for the help. And yes it’s likely covered in these 83 pages of awesomeness but I don’t have the time to read it all. By the way, which is better, 2,4d or Oust for Fall killing?
     
  16. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

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    I would NOT till it!! Smart!!! Save urself some headaches there!!!! No till all the way. Frost seed or drill is fine.
    6-10 lbs - be fine. Heavier might be lil thicker or give u a little insurance for any germination Issues.
    U nailed it- 2,4-d, ammonium sulfate & a Heavy rate of Gly. In the fall- ive added: atrazine or simazine. I’ve done 2-4 oz or plateau. Or I’ve added a very light dose of oust. Oust still spooks me a little so I keep the rate very low. Just to keep weeds from coming back in late fall & early spring. There’s lots more u could substitute as well- weed dependent. On sod.... any of those be fine and u will be spraying in fall and again in spring. If u wanna be fussy - twice in spring. But- u got the plan !! Good luck!
     
  17. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

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    Great!!!! Please tell me u added methylated seed oil? :). Good work. Depending on weed size- still keep option of one more mowing. Thick foxtail is wicked & when it’s thick- quinclorac / meth seed oil sets it back but still gonna need mow in as a combo attack plan.
     
  18. IowaBowHunter1983

    IowaBowHunter1983 Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Here's where Skip and I may disagree with the one caveat if you have a drill.

    If you have a drill or can get one, no question, drill it.

    If you are broadcasting it, I recommend a light tillage. Now, if its a highly erodible area, don't till.

    My personal experience is the switch comes in better with light tillage ahead of frost seeding. Be sure to follow the herbicide recommendations above as tillage will increase weed pressure if not handled. See Page 73 of this thread for some side by side comparison.
     
  19. titan23_87

    titan23_87 New Member

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    Seeking advice as well...


    Late fall 2019 I tilled my 2 acre area. I then frost seeded in mid January at a rate of ~9lbs per acre. Before green up I was able to get about an acre sprayed with Simazine. Post green-up I hit 2x the whole area with 2 qts per acre of Gly 1 quart 2 4-D in April. I seemed to have a great kill and was starting the month of May with relatively bare dirt. My results don’t look good. Based on my pics I have yet to identify a germinated switchgrass seedling, and see primarily crabgrass, yellow nutsedge, and others.


    I will note that I had sprayed and killed off this field and had it in Brassicas the year prior. So I had figured I had the existing seed bank at bay, that doesn’t seem to be the case. Also in the spring we had a very heavy rain fall event that I had feared washed away my frost-seeded seed. So I re-broadcasted at an ~rate of 5lbs/acre in June.

    At the advice of others I had mowed 2x in June to knock down the weed comp to hope to see switchgrass germinated.

    Please Skip/others please talk me off the ledge on what appears to be a failed switchgrass planting....


    Also any advice on next steps to save this planting...
     

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    Last edited: Jul 16, 2020
  20. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

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    Get off the ledge. ;). None of pics surprise me or look horrid. Hard to see if switch or not. It’s usually a blue type color. Few things...
    1) weed seed bank will never go away, ever. There’s just gazillions of layers of seed, some of which can survive for decades. Waiting. Never goes away. Tearing up soil will stir them & release N to stimulate them. Not a big deal at all- just mentioning. But- even in clean no till bean stubble - weeds be there.
    2) specific to u.... see if u can take more close ups on possible natives. They still could be coming. Keep it mowed & open canopy.
    3) challenges u have.... weeds of course. Weeds will make top growth look like less. What’s soil quality like there? Rough soils are often ones that have tougher establishment. Keep it open so later growing switch can continue to put down root & get that tiny shoot some height- even if minor. Keep canopy open for next month.
    4) can interseed some more again late winter. Spray Gly, ams, atrazine/simazine & 2,4-d again next spring & early summer. The bottom line: hard to say. Keep at it. Some more time will reveal more. I have to think there’s switch there. Get off ledge. Continue to interseed & spray & worst case, takes a couple years. Which is not abnormal for natives. Don’t give up. Keep posted into September!!
     
  21. titan23_87

    titan23_87 New Member

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    Posted some closer up pics. I know it’s hard to ID without seed head. Some areas it’s easy to see none exist. Soil type is relatively well drained and good soil. based on the map “Blount-Pewamo-Glynwood”- if you know what that is, haha. Also attached my soil test I had done.

    1. as far as mowing I’ve heard the 8 in rule. But ease of access to mower am I able to continue to mow 4-5” into September? The last mowing I did was in June, since I was unsure to continue to go that short...
    2. Should I look to do a Fall spraying in let’s say Oct once (if any) of the switch seedlings go dormant? Like an Oust or something with some residual?
    3. On year 2 switch what’s close to the latest date you’d look to do a Gly spraying in the Spring? This year I think i errored to far on the side of caution and stopped in April, but prob should of hit again in May....
     

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    Last edited: Jul 16, 2020

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