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Obsessed

Well-Known Member
I have heard of people bailing clover (Specifically Lee Lakosky). You just need a very large field to make it work because you just don't get the tonnage off it and it dries down (shinks) alot.

Also.... I think I would be focusing on P&K on your clover..... shouldn't need any urea.
My neighbor will bale it when he bales his and other pastures around mine. I won't get a ton of bales, but enough to feed my couple of pets through winter. I heat with a large outside wood burner (boiler), so I have more than enough wood ash that can be used in place of potash, but my soil tests on the alkaline side of the acidic scale, so I don't throw any down. Not sure about Phosphorus, but the urea made my clover explode, so I don't think I need to spread anymore fertilizer of any type at the moment.

Should i spread wood ash if my soil is alkaline?
 

IowaBowHunter1983

Super Moderator
Staff member
Anyone use imox before? (Lots of brand names for this). I’ve always done clethodim & crop oil & just mowed broadleaves. Buddy showed up to help & had some. I swear he said his little container said “4-5 oz per acre”. Label has some crazy high rates of 64-128 oz per acre though. I have no clue if he was either: 1) way off or 2) it really is 64-128 oz per acre & this stuff is LUDICROUS EXPENSIVE?!?!?
Well- he sprayed 2 weeks ago. Bro was mowing today & it did nothing. Zero. Didn’t touch weeds one bit.
So- $300/gallon- label says 64-128 oz per acre. 4-5 oz clearly did nothing. I don’t get confused on herbicides often but this is a new one for me and a no go based on 1st experience
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.c...nd-900?zenid=f1ec7d7dcf4727604ca11b2f165b7a6f

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I am having exact same confusion right now. Lots of people quote the lower rate. How can it be so different than label? I am perplexed.
 

Sligh1

Administrator
Staff member
I am having exact same confusion right now. Lots of people quote the lower rate. How can it be so different than label? I am perplexed.
I’d avoid it to be honest. It didn’t work at all when I used it at lower rate. Higher rate is insane expensive. I’m sure folks have better results but I’ll continue to do clethodim & crop oil for grass & mow for broadleaves
 

170

PMA Member
I’d avoid it to be honest. It didn’t work at all when I used it at lower rate. Higher rate is insane expensive. I’m sure folks have better results but I’ll continue to do clethodim & crop oil for grass & mow for broadleaves
We have used Imox at the rate recommended for Raptor, which is around 6 oz per acre. We had great results spraying early, like mid April to early May. Imo it worked better than clethodim ever has.
 

BearCreek

New Member
As anticipated by the experienced members of IW, the clover I frost seeded on March 20 has prospered. The areas that held lots of moisture, even standing at times, did much better. We didn't have much frost after I seeded, so the moisture may have also contributed to seed/soil contact. I have attached some photos below. This is an access road I "installed" that forms a buffer between the row crop field and forest. The Persist variety of red clover from Welter Seed germinated faster and is growing more vigorously than the Renovation white clover (also from Welter.) I assume the renovation will catch up over the late spring/summer.

This was done by using a leaf blower to blow corn debris before I frost seeded. I will likely mow it at some point to clip weeds and spray with clethodim if grasses appear. The field is in beans this year so I don't need to worry about clethodim damaging corn. I have not yet added any fertilizers or lime.

The annual clover plot I installed is not doing as well. More updates on that in the future, but in retrospect I would have cultipacked the soil before seeding the Balansa, Crimson, and Berseem, and possibly sprayed for weeds and grasses the growing season before installation.
 

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Tmayer13

PMA Member
As anticipated by the experienced members of IW, the clover I frost seeded on March 20 has prospered. The areas that held lots of moisture, even standing at times, did much better. We didn't have much frost after I seeded, so the moisture may have also contributed to seed/soil contact. I have attached some photos below. This is an access road I "installed" that forms a buffer between the row crop field and forest. The Persist variety of red clover from Welter Seed germinated faster and is growing more vigorously than the Renovation white clover (also from Welter.) I assume the renovation will catch up over the late spring/summer.

This was done by using a leaf blower to blow corn debris before I frost seeded. I will likely mow it at some point to clip weeds and spray with clethodim if grasses appear. The field is in beans this year so I don't need to worry about clethodim damaging corn. I have not yet added any fertilizers or lime.

The annual clover plot I installed is not doing as well. More updates on that in the future, but in retrospect I would have cultipacked the soil before seeding the Balansa, Crimson, and Berseem, and possibly sprayed for weeds and grasses the growing season before installation.
That looks great for first year clover!!! Second year and so on are always better!

Did you plant the annuals at the same time?

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BearCreek

New Member
I planted some annuals at the same time and then some additional Balansa and Berseem a few weeks ago in a spot that I thought was done flooding for the year, I was wrong. I'm sure some in the first plot will make it but there is a lot of pasture clover, ragweed, and fescue mixed in.
 

IowaBowHunter1983

Super Moderator
Staff member
I planted some annuals at the same time and then some additional Balansa and Berseem a few weeks ago in a spot that I thought was done flooding for the year, I was wrong. I'm sure some in the first plot will make it but there is a lot of pasture clover, ragweed, and fescue mixed in.
Annual clovers (with a few exceptions) cannot be frost seeded. Most likely the issue. There is a frosty Berseem that can handle it.

Best to plant annuals after all threats of frost are gone.
 

2.5YR8

Active Member
In general how often do clover plots need mowed? I planted a plot last spring, and I mowed it once, but then it became hot and dry and I left it alone. It came back great this spring and I sprayed it with cleth a couple weeks ago . I mowed it a couple days ago to knock back the broadleafs.
 

Tmayer13

PMA Member
In general how often do clover plots need mowed? I planted a plot last spring, and I mowed it once, but then it became hot and dry and I left it alone. It came back great this spring and I sprayed it with cleth a couple weeks ago . I mowed it a couple days ago to knock back the broadleafs.
I dont actually know if there is a correct answer to this...youll get answer where people never mow, some mow once a month....My take, mow to keep weeds out and stems palatable but stop before the summer gets hot and dry...I believe having a "taller" plant when the heat comes is better than having a freshly mowed plot.. and I also like to mow about a month or so before bow season opens...but its all about what works for you
 

cybball

PMA Member
I dont actually know if there is a correct answer to this...youll get answer where people never mow, some mow once a month....My take, mow to keep weeds out and stems palatable but stop before the summer gets hot and dry...I believe having a "taller" plant when the heat comes is better than having a freshly mowed plot.. and I also like to mow about a month or so before bow season opens...but its all about what works for you
That has been my plan too. Think I mowed mine twice last year. Once early, before spraying for grasses and broadleaf weeds, then maybe around September. I keep bees at my place and like the new growth as it flowers, which the bees like. I have moved once already and with this rain, will hit it again soon (doesn't look like I have even touched it with all the growth). I am skipping spraying this year as its really clean and mowing really knocks out the weeds.
 

2.5YR8

Active Member
I dont actually know if there is a correct answer to this...youll get answer where people never mow, some mow once a month....My take, mow to keep weeds out and stems palatable but stop before the summer gets hot and dry...I believe having a "taller" plant when the heat comes is better than having a freshly mowed plot.. and I also like to mow about a month or so before bow season opens...but its all about what works for you
That has been my plan too. Think I mowed mine twice last year. Once early, before spraying for grasses and broadleaf weeds, then maybe around September. I keep bees at my place and like the new growth as it flowers, which the bees like. I have moved once already and with this rain, will hit it again soon (doesn't look like I have even touched it with all the growth). I am skipping spraying this year as its really clean and mowing really knocks out the weeds.
Thanks, that's a plan that makes sense to me. I'm a complete novice to food plots, and this clover was my 1st attempt at growing anything for wildlife. It's going better than expected so far.
 

Obsessed

Well-Known Member
So a funny thing happened. My clover came in thick early this spring, after repeated mowing last season. The mowing killed back many of the weeds without spraying chemical. I let the clover go with the anticipation of baling it this year. After it got to be around 12" tall, out popped a thick crop of alfalfa, which quickly towered over the clover. Very few weeds. My neighbor baled it for me late last week and I ended up with 6 full round bales off of roughly one single acre. I couldn't be happier. There's a nice mix of clover and alfalfa in each bale and now my pasture/food plot is begging for a little rain to prep for the second cutting.
 
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