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I have heard of people bailing clover (Specifically Lee Lakosky). You just need a very large field to make it work because you just don't get the tonnage off it and it dries down (shinks) alot.

Also.... I think I would be focusing on P&K on your clover..... shouldn't need any urea.
My neighbor will bale it when he bales his and other pastures around mine. I won't get a ton of bales, but enough to feed my couple of pets through winter. I heat with a large outside wood burner (boiler), so I have more than enough wood ash that can be used in place of potash, but my soil tests on the alkaline side of the acidic scale, so I don't throw any down. Not sure about Phosphorus, but the urea made my clover explode, so I don't think I need to spread anymore fertilizer of any type at the moment.

Should i spread wood ash if my soil is alkaline?
 
Anyone use imox before? (Lots of brand names for this). I’ve always done clethodim & crop oil & just mowed broadleaves. Buddy showed up to help & had some. I swear he said his little container said “4-5 oz per acre”. Label has some crazy high rates of 64-128 oz per acre though. I have no clue if he was either: 1) way off or 2) it really is 64-128 oz per acre & this stuff is LUDICROUS EXPENSIVE?!?!?
Well- he sprayed 2 weeks ago. Bro was mowing today & it did nothing. Zero. Didn’t touch weeds one bit.
So- $300/gallon- label says 64-128 oz per acre. 4-5 oz clearly did nothing. I don’t get confused on herbicides often but this is a new one for me and a no go based on 1st experience
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.c...nd-900?zenid=f1ec7d7dcf4727604ca11b2f165b7a6f

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I am having exact same confusion right now. Lots of people quote the lower rate. How can it be so different than label? I am perplexed.
 
I am having exact same confusion right now. Lots of people quote the lower rate. How can it be so different than label? I am perplexed.
I’d avoid it to be honest. It didn’t work at all when I used it at lower rate. Higher rate is insane expensive. I’m sure folks have better results but I’ll continue to do clethodim & crop oil for grass & mow for broadleaves
 
I’d avoid it to be honest. It didn’t work at all when I used it at lower rate. Higher rate is insane expensive. I’m sure folks have better results but I’ll continue to do clethodim & crop oil for grass & mow for broadleaves
We have used Imox at the rate recommended for Raptor, which is around 6 oz per acre. We had great results spraying early, like mid April to early May. Imo it worked better than clethodim ever has.
 
As anticipated by the experienced members of IW, the clover I frost seeded on March 20 has prospered. The areas that held lots of moisture, even standing at times, did much better. We didn't have much frost after I seeded, so the moisture may have also contributed to seed/soil contact. I have attached some photos below. This is an access road I "installed" that forms a buffer between the row crop field and forest. The Persist variety of red clover from Welter Seed germinated faster and is growing more vigorously than the Renovation white clover (also from Welter.) I assume the renovation will catch up over the late spring/summer.

This was done by using a leaf blower to blow corn debris before I frost seeded. I will likely mow it at some point to clip weeds and spray with clethodim if grasses appear. The field is in beans this year so I don't need to worry about clethodim damaging corn. I have not yet added any fertilizers or lime.

The annual clover plot I installed is not doing as well. More updates on that in the future, but in retrospect I would have cultipacked the soil before seeding the Balansa, Crimson, and Berseem, and possibly sprayed for weeds and grasses the growing season before installation.
 

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As anticipated by the experienced members of IW, the clover I frost seeded on March 20 has prospered. The areas that held lots of moisture, even standing at times, did much better. We didn't have much frost after I seeded, so the moisture may have also contributed to seed/soil contact. I have attached some photos below. This is an access road I "installed" that forms a buffer between the row crop field and forest. The Persist variety of red clover from Welter Seed germinated faster and is growing more vigorously than the Renovation white clover (also from Welter.) I assume the renovation will catch up over the late spring/summer.

This was done by using a leaf blower to blow corn debris before I frost seeded. I will likely mow it at some point to clip weeds and spray with clethodim if grasses appear. The field is in beans this year so I don't need to worry about clethodim damaging corn. I have not yet added any fertilizers or lime.

The annual clover plot I installed is not doing as well. More updates on that in the future, but in retrospect I would have cultipacked the soil before seeding the Balansa, Crimson, and Berseem, and possibly sprayed for weeds and grasses the growing season before installation.
That looks great for first year clover!!! Second year and so on are always better!

Did you plant the annuals at the same time?

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I planted some annuals at the same time and then some additional Balansa and Berseem a few weeks ago in a spot that I thought was done flooding for the year, I was wrong. I'm sure some in the first plot will make it but there is a lot of pasture clover, ragweed, and fescue mixed in.
 
I planted some annuals at the same time and then some additional Balansa and Berseem a few weeks ago in a spot that I thought was done flooding for the year, I was wrong. I'm sure some in the first plot will make it but there is a lot of pasture clover, ragweed, and fescue mixed in.
Annual clovers (with a few exceptions) cannot be frost seeded. Most likely the issue. There is a frosty Berseem that can handle it.

Best to plant annuals after all threats of frost are gone.
 
In general how often do clover plots need mowed? I planted a plot last spring, and I mowed it once, but then it became hot and dry and I left it alone. It came back great this spring and I sprayed it with cleth a couple weeks ago . I mowed it a couple days ago to knock back the broadleafs.
 
In general how often do clover plots need mowed? I planted a plot last spring, and I mowed it once, but then it became hot and dry and I left it alone. It came back great this spring and I sprayed it with cleth a couple weeks ago . I mowed it a couple days ago to knock back the broadleafs.
I dont actually know if there is a correct answer to this...youll get answer where people never mow, some mow once a month....My take, mow to keep weeds out and stems palatable but stop before the summer gets hot and dry...I believe having a "taller" plant when the heat comes is better than having a freshly mowed plot.. and I also like to mow about a month or so before bow season opens...but its all about what works for you
 
I dont actually know if there is a correct answer to this...youll get answer where people never mow, some mow once a month....My take, mow to keep weeds out and stems palatable but stop before the summer gets hot and dry...I believe having a "taller" plant when the heat comes is better than having a freshly mowed plot.. and I also like to mow about a month or so before bow season opens...but its all about what works for you
That has been my plan too. Think I mowed mine twice last year. Once early, before spraying for grasses and broadleaf weeds, then maybe around September. I keep bees at my place and like the new growth as it flowers, which the bees like. I have moved once already and with this rain, will hit it again soon (doesn't look like I have even touched it with all the growth). I am skipping spraying this year as its really clean and mowing really knocks out the weeds.
 
I dont actually know if there is a correct answer to this...youll get answer where people never mow, some mow once a month....My take, mow to keep weeds out and stems palatable but stop before the summer gets hot and dry...I believe having a "taller" plant when the heat comes is better than having a freshly mowed plot.. and I also like to mow about a month or so before bow season opens...but its all about what works for you
That has been my plan too. Think I mowed mine twice last year. Once early, before spraying for grasses and broadleaf weeds, then maybe around September. I keep bees at my place and like the new growth as it flowers, which the bees like. I have moved once already and with this rain, will hit it again soon (doesn't look like I have even touched it with all the growth). I am skipping spraying this year as its really clean and mowing really knocks out the weeds.
Thanks, that's a plan that makes sense to me. I'm a complete novice to food plots, and this clover was my 1st attempt at growing anything for wildlife. It's going better than expected so far.
 
So a funny thing happened. My clover came in thick early this spring, after repeated mowing last season. The mowing killed back many of the weeds without spraying chemical. I let the clover go with the anticipation of baling it this year. After it got to be around 12" tall, out popped a thick crop of alfalfa, which quickly towered over the clover. Very few weeds. My neighbor baled it for me late last week and I ended up with 6 full round bales off of roughly one single acre. I couldn't be happier. There's a nice mix of clover and alfalfa in each bale and now my pasture/food plot is begging for a little rain to prep for the second cutting.
 
Sorry if this has been covered already but anyone ever broadcast clover into standing beans as they are yellowing to establish a new clover plot for the following year? I have 4 acres of beans that are canopied out and will not harvest them. I want to establish a new clover plot as I am breaking this 4 acre bean plot into a double tree type rotation next year. This is my second year in a row with beans and I want to mix it up for next season. Will the beans make a decent cover crop for the clover? Any reason to add rye when I broadcast the clover too or should the beans alone be okay?
 
Sorry if this has been covered already but anyone ever broadcast clover into standing beans as they are yellowing to establish a new clover plot for the following year? I have 4 acres of beans that are canopied out and will not harvest them. I want to establish a new clover plot as I am breaking this 4 acre bean plot into a double tree type rotation next year. This is my second year in a row with beans and I want to mix it up for next season. Will the beans make a decent cover crop for the clover? Any reason to add rye when I broadcast the clover too or should the beans alone be okay?
Clover should do fine. Not perfect but fine. Go heavier. You should have a good stand of clover next spring. Do a few clover types.
I would add rye. Will add some more food & huge soil benefits. It’s not critical to add rye but I would if possible.
 
Sorry if this has been covered already but anyone ever broadcast clover into standing beans as they are yellowing to establish a new clover plot for the following year? I have 4 acres of beans that are canopied out and will not harvest them. I want to establish a new clover plot as I am breaking this 4 acre bean plot into a double tree type rotation next year. This is my second year in a row with beans and I want to mix it up for next season. Will the beans make a decent cover crop for the clover? Any reason to add rye when I broadcast the clover too or should the beans alone be okay?
Another option would be to add your rye when the beans begin to defoliate and then frost seed your clover in March....probably get roughly the same results

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Jerry - Agree with both above. You definitely have options..

IF you want to establish a perennial clover plot, I'd seed this fall with cereal rye. IF you want to establish an annual clover to plow down to brassicas next fall, you could either seed this fall, frost seed over the winter or establish with oats, peas in the spring.
 
I've read through all 61 pages of this, so much good info. Seriously priceless. However, I'm torn between spring and fall planting for what I plan to be a long lived clover plot. Right now, the area that will eventually be all clover is all rape and radishes. My thought was to disc/plant clover mix with winter rye next spring (2022) so I'll have food for the deer throughout the summer and a decent clover stand come deer season of 2022. It certainly is apparent that fall-planted clover plots with rye are much more simple and successful. My only concern, if I wait till late August to disc/plant clover & rye, will I have enough food already in October to pull deer in?
 
I've read through all 61 pages of this, so much good info. Seriously priceless. However, I'm torn between spring and fall planting for what I plan to be a long lived clover plot. Right now, the area that will eventually be all clover is all rape and radishes. My thought was to disc/plant clover mix with winter rye next spring (2022) so I'll have food for the deer throughout the summer and a decent clover stand come deer season of 2022. It certainly is apparent that fall-planted clover plots with rye are much more simple and successful. My only concern, if I wait till late August to disc/plant clover & rye, will I have enough food already in October to pull deer in?
like most of us here we have read through most threads and sometimes twice.
IMO fall planting clover is for more successful than spring and maybe its not even more successful but its definitely far easier.
In the fall when planting with other crops such as rye, oats, peas, radishes(DBLtree mix) is a fantastic way to establish next years clover all while providing a great fall crop to hunt over. Fall grains and clover will be very attractive this fall almost immediately.
In the spring it is also very easy to establish clover but you will fight more weeds with a spring planting then you will with a fall planting the next spring(i hope that makes sense).
In your scenario you need to decide what you want for a fall crop. If you want the rape and radishes then leave it and frost seed clover this winter. I probably would not add any rye next spring although you can and its easily controller with herbicides. But i would plant a nurse crop of oats instead.
The reason we like to plant clover with rye in the fall is the rye will stay green and attractive all fall and into winter and be the first thing to green up in the spring providing that immediate food source, rye also has an allelopathic feature that will aide in weed suppression next spring.

in your situation you cannot go wrong! good luck and lets us know how it goes!
 
Agree with TMayer, definitely fall establishment if you can. You get two chances, one with your initial seeding and then can come back and frost seed any thin areas.

As a backup, you could still frost seed into your brassicas (if they get eaten hard), but if not you're probably looking at tilling/discing them under and planting with oats.. But still more weeds going this route. Perennial clover just takes a longer time to establish.
 
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