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Another tech head question

jharrell

jharrell

New Member
Will the EZE laser center tool work on a Mathews bow? I know the string runs at an angle to the riser so the center shot tools are not supposed to work. Mathews says set it at 13/16 from the riser and paper tune from there but my pro shop and the laser put it at about 19/32. 19/32 seems a bit close to the riser. Will bare shaft paper tuning work?
 
Slow down HG. Twelve hours have passed with no responses. I think you may have dumb founded these Iowa boys with all that laser talk.
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I'd listen to the guys in your pro shop but it sounds like you're just looking for an excuse to tinker.
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So, with that in mind I'll bet that laser totally messed your bow up, you'd better paper tune and then, when you get that bow totally messed up, take it back to the pro shop and have them fix it. Lastly, send me that Drop Zone because they don't work on Mathews from your neck of the woods.
 
Headgear,
I don't know which mathews you have but 13/16 if it is within specs is correct and dead center on my Legacy and it was as well on my SQ2. The newer models have a mark on the handle.

BTW, those lighted nocks are the bugs ear when it comes to tuning...
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Rack just take your buzzlight year action figure over there I think that has a laser on it...
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That's just it. One pro shop says one thing and the other says another. I guess I'll go by what they say on the Mathews forum. They say go by the 13/16 from center of arrow to the riser and paper tune from there. I guess it just bugs me that when I set it at 13/16 it looks way off center. Your right I love to tinker with my bow. I hate to say how many times I will tweak it around between now and elk season in September trying out stuff. By August 1 it will be locked in and shooting good though. Sorry Muddy but with all the stuff I just bought at Bass Pro to try out the DZ may be the only thing working on my bow in the next couple of months. I'm not to worried about messing it all up. I know what has worked in the past so I can always go back to it if what I'm trying out doesn't work better. Send your bow down Muddy and I'll see if I can put a blower and some headers on it for ya!
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Hey Limb, I was posting while you were posting. I am shooting a SQ2 and as weird as it may look I think your right.

Tell me more about the lighted nocks and tuning. I need something else to tinker with...

Also I have read and heard some things about timing on these bows. How do you tell if you are out of time?
 
The lighted nocks (tracer nock or lumenok) I have used for tuning. You can see any kick that your arrow may have, they are really sweet. I had to buy some more this year because I switched to the easton axis arrows and I don't think lumenok makes one for those. Anyway, your timing could be off due to string strech and there are different ways to check. There are two holes on your cam and if you put a piece of string on the bottom one, line it up with the top one it should run parallel to your string. If it doesn't then you can put some twists in your string to take care of the problem...or get a winners choice, baracuda or some other custom string which will alievate most of the stretch problem. The customs will stretch a little at first but once set they seem not to move.
 
13/16 is a recommended starting point. For a final perfect tune, you may have to move the rest slightly. You can use whichever method of tuning you prefer, be it bare shaft tuning, broadhead tuning, or paper tuning. I personally don't use the laser devices, since they don't take into account the variations in hand positions and pressures from one shooter to the next. Ideally you want to shoot and tune your own bow for your own shooting style. If you are having too much difficulty achieving a good tune, it is either a problem with arrow spine or a form error.
 
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