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Arrow building ?

SWIABOONER

SWIABOONER

PMA Member
I've been bowhunting for 15 years. I've always relied on my pro shop to build my arrows but I really would like to start doing it myself. I was wondering what jig and other accessories everyone would suggest I buy. I want quality equipment that is going to last me a long time. Thanks in advance for the info.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Iowabowtech</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bitzenberger. </div></div>
yup
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Iowabowtech</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bitzenberger. </div></div>

Same here
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Bitzenberger. </div></div>

and again!

I will usually order the shafts cut to correct size but a cut off saw would be nice as well.
 
I agree with everyone else on the vane jig. A Bitz is the only way to go. I prefer a right helical setup.

Vanes...pick whatever you'd like.

Glue...there are a bunch out there that work depending on the setup. Goat tuff(mainly for inserts), Bohning platinum, locktite super glue gel, flex-bond are among some out there.

If your going to be cutting your own arrows, an ASD(arrow squaring device) is a must in my opinion. 100% guarantee that your cut is square and true. A good thing to own even if you have someone else cutting your own arrows. You can glue in your own inserts later on. Not sure on alum shafts, but with carbons you will want to scuff up the inside of the shaft prior to gluing the insert in.


Some tips that have helped me to get started in making my own arrows.

#Use acetone, lacquer thinner, wood alcohol or isopropyl alcohol if it is at least 97% pure.
#Use a clean 100% cotton cloth. An old T-shirt works great.
#Clean area of the shaft before applying vane/feather.
#Rub the base of the vane lengthwise once in each direction. Move finger slightly to use a fresh surface on the return pass.
#Use a fresh area of cloth and new solvent on each vane.

Don't use rubbing alcohol, cotton balls, cotton swabs (Q-Tips) or paper towels. They often contain oils and chemicals which interfere with adhesion.


Good luck!
 
To the OP and others:

If you've always wanted an arrow saw but have never pulled the trigger on one due to cost, I've found a great workaround. When you look into this, there aren't many options, the Apples always come to the surface but they're FREAKIN expensive! Cabelas makes a knock off but it ain't cheap either. Here's what I use:

Beer Budget Arrow Saw

Get yours for under $30 from Harbor Freight. They come with a 2" steel blade but I 86'd that thing right off the bat and bought a handful of 3" oxide blades, the same kind that come on a run of the mill chopsaw. Got the blades at Harbor Freight for like .50 each, maybe less (Note: you have to remove the blade gaurd for the 3" blades to fit and function). I mounted the saw to a chunk of 1x6 oak about 3 ft long, then you can rig up a stop and/or tape measure to make repeatable cuts. Works like a champ.
 
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