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Bow Tuning Question

SWIADEERHNTR

SWIADEERHNTR

Come 'on Next Season....
Last year was my first year bowhunting. I have a Kronik bow (single cam) I bought from a friend who bought it new and I spent the summer getting it all setup for hunting last fall. Initially, my broadheads (muzzy mx-3) were going all over the place where my field points were shooting well. So I paper tuned it and followed the instructions on that looking at the tear in the paper and adjusting my rest/nock etc.

I did finally get my broadheads shooting with my field points at 30 yds. I used some gift cards I got at Christmas time to get a new sight at Bass Pro. I got a spot hogg 7 pin sight so I could work on my effective range.

When the guy at the archery counter installed the sight, he looked at my bow and said, "whoa this thing is waaay off" because when the bow was at rest with an arrow nocked, the arrow was pointing at a downward angle towards the ground. Left and right was ok with the rest position but he said it looked as if my nock point was 2 or 3 inches high. He moved it all so with the arrow nocked and bow at rest the arrow was straight/horizontal. I took it home and shot it once at a bag target at about 5-10 yards and the arrow was waaay off of where I aimed but I assumed I had to adjust the new sight. However, the arrow was also stuck in the target very crooked like it's contacting the bow or something making it fly pretty wild.

This was frustrating because I spent a lot of time setting it up last year and was expecting to just have to dial in a new sight. Was the bass pro guy right and my arrow pointing down was a problem? I agree it looked a little off but hey, it shot where I wanted it and passed the paper tuning test. It seemed although when at rest the arrow pointed downward, when I was at full draw it straightened up and was horizontal the way I had it but that was from my perspective holding the bow. Is there something else possibly out of adjustment I should check? Thank you for your help!

I'll have to start over and get the center shot back in tune and go from there I guess...
 
Save yourself a ton of trouble and take it to an expert. If you are anywhere near Pella, take it to Buck Hollow. Otherwise, find a shop that specializes in archery, and take it there. I'm not saying that all guys at Bass Pro bad, but most do not have the proper knowledge. If the guy that helped you had any clue at all, he would have atleast had you shoot it before you left. Paper tune ect.
 
I agree with JakeWym. Take it somewhere that knows what is going on. When i bought my first bow at scheels they set it up for me and they had the knock point way off as well as a serving that i could barely knock my arrows on. now i always take my bows to an actual pro shop at least until i learn to do it all myself
 
I'd take it to an expert with a good reputation.

Just out of curiosity, what poundage and what spine of arrow are you shooting?
 
The tech unfortunately misinformed you. Paper is a good start and nothing wrong at all with "starting " there. But......then you should walk back tune to dial in your center shot, then finish with broadhead tuning.

Place a dot on a bale and sight in bow at 20 yards. Then walk back to25, 30, 35 and 40. Use the same pin and shoot at the same spot. The arrows obviously will be lower the further back to go, burn a perfect vertical line you have a perfect center shot. If they angle to the left then you need to move your rest to the right maybe 1 16th of an inch. If they angle to the right you must move your rest 1/16 inch to the left.

Only when you have a perfect vertical stack, should you sight in your pins. The final test, shoot a broadhead at a spot at 25 yards, then a field point. If they hit together you are definitely tuned, but let's say the broad head hit 3 inches to the right of the field point. Then you simply move the rest 1/16 th inch to the left and repeat. Always move the rest in the direction of where the field point hits in relation to the broadheads.

Once the field point and broad head hit the same spot, even if it is 1 foot from where you are aiming, then you can re-sight n your pins.

Let the bow dictate where it wants the arrow placed, it also matters if you're arrows are correct for the bow, but if the bow tunes well with broadheads and field points having the same point of impact, you are gold:)

Boyd is great to work with and I strongly advise you to visit with him, he knows his stuff and can definitely help! But I also think it's important for you to understand these things and then you can do it yourself for years to come:)
 
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Thank you all for your help! I've always been skeptical of the guys at Bass Pro if they really know what they're doing, that's why I asked. I had to use my gift cards up and it was what it was. There's probably some decent guys but how do you know...

The rest I have is the stock hostage octane rest but i'm hoping to upgrade to a QAD this year maybe before I do all this tuning.

I will try the walk back tuning too after I get it close. Thank you again!
 
I agree with the others about taking it to pro. I would be curious to know what kind of rest your using but if you where able to paper tune and broad head tune I would think the timing is out of wack. If you had to have your bow set up with that high of a nock point you may have timing issues effecting your nock travel. I don't know the quality of strings you get on a Kronik but I bet they have stretched. A new set of strings may be in order. Even single cams can have timing issues.
 
That's interesting because I know my buddy bought it new 4 years ago and threw a lot of arrows through it and I have shot a lot through it now as well. I can see the string is about ready for replacement but I was gonna keep it through this year and get it replaced next year.

I'll have to look into that more as I've heard of mis-timing but don't know much about it. Maybe I do need to get the string replaced this year.
 
There are a ton of things that could be wrong. Does it still have the original string and cables?? Nocking point, rest placement and being level, the brushes on those rest are junk, and if they are original brushes you will have a very hard time getting the groups you could. and thats just a few things. hope it all works out for you.
 
Yes it has the original string and cables. The brushes were replaced last year but I know the rest is sub-par, hoping to replace it before I do all this tuning...
 
Ya I have wooked on bows for years. I would say save up and do it all at one time. That way you dont have to re adjust after every improvment. Just my 2 cents.
 
Haha, I completely agree, I'm trying to get it saved up, that's why haven't started to tune it in yet :)

Thanks again for all of your help!
 
Lots of good advise on here.
Bottom line is there could be any one or all of a dozen things going on with your bow including but not limited to:
  • String Stretch
  • Cam timiing
  • yoke tweaked for cam lean
  • centershot
  • nock height
  • arrow spine
  • grip issues (torque)
  • etc
Take it to someone who knows what they are doing and watch them work their magic - the little amount you will have to spend will pay back ten times in frustration saved and better shooting and you may learn a lot. If you are thinking about upgrading your rest or new strings, do it all at once - why go through all that over and over as you slowly change the bow?
 
gunrunr said:
Lots of good advise on here.

Bottom line is there could be any one or all of a dozen things going on with your bow including but not limited to:
  • String Stretch
  • Cam timiing
  • yoke tweaked for cam lean
  • centershot
  • nock height
  • arrow spine
  • grip issues (torque)
  • etc
Take it to someone who knows what they are doing and watch them work their magic - the little amount you will have to spend will pay back ten times in frustration saved and better shooting and you may learn a lot. If you are thinking about upgrading your rest or new strings, do it all at once - why go through all that over and over as you slowly change the bow?
Click to expand...


Yep. Alot of different things to look into.
 
I hate to bash products, but i think the hostage rests are a complete waste of money. I put one on my new mathews last year and got tuned and after only a couple dozen shots, the brushes were already worn down so much that I had to keep messing with it to keep my arrow level. Got new brushes for it and same thing happened again. Unless you want to retune the vertical every couple dozen shots; then this rest is for nobody. Not saying this is your problem, but I would switch to something better before you start tuning or you may have a tough time shooting consistant groups once you are tuned. My 2 cents.
 
If ur around marsheall.co go to robin mann, shooters edge he's great will tell u eeverything u need to know and more I rate him #1
 
Great! Thank you all for the tips! I'm gonna see what I can do to get the upgraded rest and new strings all at once. Also just curious, what does it approximately cost to get it "tuned" and restrung at a bow shop? I know they're all different but roughly... Is this a $50 expense or a $250 expense (not including the parts, new string, just the tuning).
 
New set of good strings and cables installed on your bow and basic set-up, cam and yoke timing included will typically run around $90 - $100. Advanced tuning is done by the hour as no two are the same, it wouldn't be fair to set a flat rate. Super Tuning is not just the bow but also the arrow and the archer. You can have a perfect bow that shoots lousy if there are problems in the other two.
 
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