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Brassicas

I was looking at Welter Seed and saw this :pacer Hybrid Brassica is a hybrid cross between a forage turnip and a forage rape.
Pacer is a quick maturing, tap root type, high energy forage brassica that is known for its leafiness and multi-graze potential.

You know we are always looking for the new Silver Bullet. Whats your opinion?

Mike
 
I was looking at Welter Seed and saw this :pacer Hybrid Brassica is a hybrid cross between a forage turnip and a forage rape.
Pacer is a quick maturing, tap root type, high energy forage brassica that is known for its leafiness and multi-graze potential.

You know we are always looking for the new Silver Bullet. Whats your opinion?

Mike

It will produce copious amounts of high quality forage but be cautious of "quick maturing" sometimes, if planted to early they could mature before hunting season and be unpalatable. The up side is that it is a multi-graze meaning it can be heavily grazed yet recover.

If by silver bullet you are hoping to draw deer for miles...there is no such thing on the planet....deer live within the cover surrounding your feeding area so cover is the silver bullet. That said, thus far I have not found any plant more palatable and attractive to whitetails then the Groundhog forage radish...they will hammer that stuff even beside standing beans.:way:

If you try this hybrid, let us know what you think of it...;)
 
The winter rye and the GHR are the only thing that I have seen on my place that the deer have just destroyed. So I don't think I'm going to abandon those choices, in fact I'll probubly use more. That said I might buy a pound and scatter a little to see what happens.

I have had the same luck with ptt's as Dug. And I mentioned it when you were at the St.Louis QDMA seminar 2 years ago. So to make Dug feel a little better here are some pics of my turnips that did not get touched,in spite of there being over 4o deer per square mile.



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Your advice was to include a few ptt's in with the WR and GHR to give the chance to try them. Your advice has been spot on and I'm sure all of us would like to thank you. Keep the faith Dug , they will come.

Mike
 
Thanks for the great pics Mike! :way:

May 17th, 2012

There are several key issues involving feeding areas that we want to avoid...

1) Avoid having a "dirt plot"

2) Avoid having only one crop in your feeding area

3) Avoid planting the same crop in the same place two years in a row

We can easily avoid any and all of those problems by having multiple crops in each feeding area, even a 20X60 garden sized plot can easily be divided into 3 strips each containing a different crop and then rotating those crops. No crop can by itself provide a source of year around food but combining the right crops this can be accomplished easily.

At seasons end, brassicas are kaput and when spring comes the area is a "dirt plot"...bad for the soil and bad for whitetails, so one way to solve that problem is to plant the spent brassica strip to oats and annual clovers. I like to use Jerry oats and a mix of crimson and berseem clovers but any oats including feed grade oats will work and there are other cloves such as arrowleaf depending on what area of the country you live in.

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Winter rye kept deer fed all winter and into early spring but then it quickly matures and becomes unpalatable to deer, there is however lush red and white clover growing beneath the tall rye. Last year the center strip was brassicas, now it is lush tender oats and annual clovers that are growing rapidly.

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I clipped the rye off recently exposing the fall planted clovers

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but deer are never for a moment lacking something eat and have beaten paths coming to this feeding area

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I usually plant 50#'s of oats per acre as a cover and food source but rates can be increased to some extent and here I doubled the rate on side for a test example

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Note that the Jerry oats ( a common oat in the Midwest planted by farmers to harvest...oats!) are heavily grazed

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The crimson and berseem clovers are growing quickly...and it is for this reason i prefer annuals for a quick spring cover crop, white and red clover grows to slowly during establishment so I plant those in the fall.

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The annual clovers will provide a lush high protein source of food and...fix nitrogen that can be used by the rye mix that will follow this planting in late August.

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The strip plots are set for awhile now...the far right strip was planted to white clover last August with the rye and will remain in perennial white clover for 3-5 years. The center strip that was brassicas, is now oats and annual clovers, will be planted to the rye combo in very late August. The far left strip was rye, oats, peas, radish and red clover last fall....now after clipping the rye only the red clover remains and this strip will be rotated to brassicas in July.

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Using the strip or block planting of multiple crops within each feeding area helps us achieve our goals of attracting and holding whitetails on our property year around. Planting a single crop of soybeans or brassicas does...not! The combination of crops listed below and shown in the pictures above will adapt deer to feeding here year around and that in turn makes them very predictable and easy to harvest. I would add that at no time have we used herbicides (other then initial gly application to kill sod) in these feeding areas and over time the need for synthetic fertilizers will diminish markedly.

Lower your habitat expenses and increase your success rate at the same time by putting the following crop rotations into use on your farm.... :way:
Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, KopuII, Durana (or comparable) white clovers 10% of plot...plant with the rye mix below and soil test for needed P&K/lime requirements. Lacking a soil test I use 400#'s of 6-28-28 and 500#'s of pel lime in my area.

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost. Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea, 400#'s of 6-28-28 (or comparable such as 400#'s triple 19 ) Add lime per soil test. Follow the dead brassicas with 50#'s oats and 15-20#'s berseem and/or crimson clover in mid spring and no fertilizer is necessary at that time.

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas only 100-200#'s of urea may be needed but first time plantings may need to be fertilized and limed as the noted for the brassicas.

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
I have some brassicas that are planted in a mix along with a variety of alfalfa and clover. A few thistles are popping up, is there a chemical that would take care of the thistle and not harm the rest?

Small plot and I would backpack spray (what would be the mix for a 4 gallon sprayer)...thanks
 
Ok, but do you know if it will kill brassicas or clover as well, still not 100% sure what to use?

I think you'll have to spot spray because probably not many options that will kill thistles and not the other broadleaves in your mix. Sometimes easier to mix a strong solution of gly and just spot treat the thistles. ;)
 
When I was trying to kill thistles they were in an old barnyard that is now mostly overgrown grass. So I just hit them individually with gly to kill them and didn't care that I got a little overspray on anything else. It worked in terms of killing the thistles, but the same technique may not be advisable if the thistles are growing in something that you don't want to kill too.
 
Thanks guys, that probably is what I will do. The brown spots look a bit odd, but the deer probably will not care!
 
Rmomn

Can i plant winter rye mixed in with purple top turnips and also can I mix winter rye with dwarf essex rape two seperate plantings without the rye affecting the germination of the turnips and rape?
 
Seeders

Does anyone know what type of used or new seeder I can pick up that would work for items like sugar beets, corn, etc..... I have an old David Bradley single row planter but it does not have any discs, or should I look for something else???? I will be pulling it with a cat 1 three point hitch off my 500 cc four wheeler..
 
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Does anyone know what type of used or new seeder I can pick up that would work for items like sugar beets, corn, etc..... I have an old David Bradley single row planter but it does not have any discs, or should I look for something else???? I will be pulling it with a cat 1 three point hitch off my 500 cc four wheeler..

Not sure I have any ideas for you on that but perhaps someone else can help?

June 6th, 2012

There are some key points that I constantly remind landowners when I do a habitat consult..."The one with the most cover wins"...that said then it is important to remember that every acre of cover we can have is crucial to holding mature whitetails which means the less acres we have in food...the better.

To often people tend to think...hey I can plant 10-20 acres so i don't really care how well it produces but that attitude is counter productive to a successful habitat program. Our goal should be to produce the most amount of feed on the least amount of acres which means we want high yielding, top quality forages rather then the...opposite.

I mention this because many commercial brassica mixes are very poorly put together and contain a mix of clovers and cereals..NONE of which are compatible and severely diminish both quality and yield. A rape and turnips are a 90 day crop...so why in the world would we plant them in late August with cereals? That's like planting corn in July?!

Clovers can not compete with the canopy of a good brassica planting...that's like planting clover in soybeans??! Crazy stuff...but the average hunter landowner is easily misled into buying seed in a "pretty bag" and never even realizes he/she is shooting themselves in the foot. Something will grow...that is for certain and a mix with only a few brassicas may indeed grow clover but again...yields are severely cut, requiring more acres to feed the deer on your property.

Brassicas are much like corn....they hate competition and love nitrogen...so they should be planted at the proper time and not mixed with incompatible crops.

Plant brassicas in my July in the Midwest (earlier in the far north...later as you go south), do NOT mix other crops with them and fertilize heavily, especially with nitrogen and you'll have an outstanding crop that should look like this by late summer.

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Follow the recommendations below using a crop rotation, planting multiple crops in the same feeding area and maintain good fertility and you'll feed more deer in a smaller area, allowing you to create more cover (cover = bedding = more/bigger deer) and allow you to reach your goals of holding and harvesting mature whitetails on your property.... :way:

Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, KopuII, Durana (or comparable) white clovers 10% of plot...plant with the rye mix below and soil test for needed P&K/lime requirements. Lacking a soil test I use 400#'s of 6-28-28 and 500#'s of pel lime in my area.

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost. Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea, 400#'s of 6-28-28 (or comparable such as 400#'s triple 19 ) Add lime per soil test. Follow the dead brassicas with 50#'s oats and 15-20#'s berseem and/or crimson clover in mid spring and no fertilizer is necessary at that time.

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas only 100-200#'s of urea may be needed but first time plantings may need to be fertilized and limed as the noted for the brassicas.

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
I will be planting this mix for the first time this year. I planted the field to berseem/ots this spring. Will the oat seed from new plants I'm tilling in compete with the brassica?
 
I will be planting this mix for the first time this year. I planted the field to berseem/ots this spring. Will the oat seed from new plants I'm tilling in compete with the brassica?

Yes! Get the oats clipped off asap so they don't re-seed in with the brassicas or spray the oats when they come up with clethodim.

Normally the oat/berseem mix is followed by the rye mix which means you won't have to add oats but oats don't mix with brassicas so clip now if you will be planting brassicas. ;)
 
My oats were loaded with seeds. I did mow them but should I disc them in and let them germinate and disc again next month before planting brassicas? Or just plant something else this fall instead?
 
My oats were loaded with seeds. I did mow them but should I disc them in and let them germinate and disc again next month before planting brassicas? Or just plant something else this fall instead?

You could encourage them to germinate and then destroy them with tillage...:way:
 
Last year we planted this mix on one acre ,with heavy N applied, per Dbltree's recommendation.
Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

It seems that the brassicas were "too" crowded and didn't have as much bulb/root development as they should have. It seemed that the ones around the edges that had more room had a lot better bulb/root growth.

We are trying to figure out if we should reduce the amount, say in 1/2, or did we just get lucky and have better germination than normal and should stick with the same amount?
 
Last year we planted this mix on one acre ,with heavy N applied, per Dbltree's recommendation.
Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#
It seems that the brassicas were "too" crowded and didn't have as much bulb/root development as they should have. It seemed that the ones around the edges that had more room had a lot better bulb/root growth.

We are trying to figure out if we should reduce the amount, say in 1/2, or did we just get lucky and have better germination than normal and should stick with the same amount?

I have had similar issues, but I know I seeded too much per acre. It is easy to do with brassicas. But I wonder if your problem last year was related more to lack of moisture. Many people had trouble getting plots growing right last fall due to lack of rain.
 
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