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Edge Feathering and bedding areas

Cover

You can't have too much cover and regardless if you log, hinge or plant shrubs and conifers....creating thick brushy cover will in turn attract and hold large numbers of whitetails including mature bucks.

These are examples of naturally regenerated cover...

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Deer pour out of this cover every evening

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Brushy shrubby type cover allows them to lay down and see danger approaching

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and then get up and flee withe cover between them and the pursuer

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Brush also equals browse and natural browse takes the pressure off from planted food sources as well as keeping them fed through the difficult winter months. Think brush/cover/sanctuary and building better whitetail habitat with it today... :way:
 
here's a trick for thorn trees my dad and I did on the bigger diameter trees.We actually were looking for a way to remove the thorns so we could use the wood for our wood stoves.On the trees that have a lot of thorns on the trunk,take a mixture of 50/50 gas and deisel fuel in a small sprayer and spray around the base up to 4' high and torch them.the oils in the thorns will provide all the fuel you need from there.Do this on calm,damp days to prevent setting the woods on fire!They will burn all the way to the top,it won't get the thorns out on the limbs but will totally clean the main trunks.If using for firewood,let them stand for a few days then cut them down and use the main trunk for firewood.It makes a good hot burning firewood.
 
Timber Edge-feathering

Edge Feathering gained popularity many years ago as a means of enhancing small game habitat, especially for quail. It didn't take long for me to figure out it also made for great trail blocking and screening for whitetails!

These trees are often too big to hinge so larger trees I simple cut down and then swing them around with the tractor and loader.

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It's easy to see how one can almost instantly block off runways along a field edge over a very long area if you have the cull trees to do so. In my area the combination of sunlight and protection of the tree tops causes the edge to explode with new growth. Blackberries, vines etc. all take advantage of this protected environment to grow and flourish and in doing so only add to the blocking effect while increasing browse along the edge.

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Funneling deer out through one or two runways versus dozens makes for more effective trail cam surveys and increases successful encounters in hunting season! Edge Feathering is a win win for wildlife and hunters both!
 
Blocking

Can you make an area too thick? You bet! That's why hinging can also work so well for trail blocking!

These pics are an example of a low area that deer crossed randomly across the entire length of it and I set out to prevent that and force them all to travel within 20 yards of a ground blind.

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Where deer have the opportunity to bed on any ridge or even a rise they will do so and low areas that tend to be wet will seldom be used for that purpose anyway.

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Deer will feed along and through low areas so it's a great place to create browse....note the re-growth sprouting off the stump in the right foreground

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In this case I left the White Swamp Oaks standing and tipped over the shingle oak, ash and maple to make such a thick mess they simply don't go through it. Ridges tend to be less fertile soil so re-growth is often less robust and hinging can be more aggressive.

Regions where the whole area is low land are of course a different story as deer have little other choice in regards to bedding but one can expect more vigorous re-growth once canopy is removed. Depending on the type of trees and stage of growth sometimes small pockets left untouched may actually be preferred so each landowner may wish to experiment and note which habitat receives the most use.

In either event the use of hinged trees to block runways and create funnels is a tremendous tool that can greatly increase your hunting success and provide more effective trail cam surveys.... ;)
 
While out do some hinging and planting site prep this past friday I came across a couple areas that are thick with prickly ash. What do you guys think about prickly ash? Is there much wildlife benefit from it? I know a guy can help a tooth ache by chewing on the fruit but that's about as much as I know for its uses:). I've got quite of bit of it on the property in different areas but these two spots are really thick.
 
While out do some hinging and planting site prep this past friday I came across a couple areas that are thick with prickly ash. What do you guys think about prickly ash? Is there much wildlife benefit from it? I know a guy can help a tooth ache by chewing on the fruit but that's about as much as I know for its uses:). I've got quite of bit of it on the property in different areas but these two spots are really thick.


Supposedly birds eat the fruits, but I don't see where deer browse it at all so I have killed a lot of it off in favor of other shrubs to plant. It deserves a spot IMO tho as it is a native I believe.
 
Supposedly birds eat the fruits, but I don't see where deer browse it at all so I have killed a lot of it off in favor of other shrubs to plant. It deserves a spot IMO tho as it is a native I believe.
That's pretty much what I have seen and the approach I was leaning towards. My forester says they're not really invasive at all but can get thick in certain areas. I'll probably got thru and do a little thinning in the areas in question. I sure wont mind not snagging my pants on them:grin:
 
The TSI job am I working on now has an area the landowner did himself last year....always fun to see what they look like a year later! The whole place is full of deer tracks thanks to abundant cover and browse from the downed trees and reduced canopy.

Some trees are bound to break off in which case they send up shoots from the stump

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Others where the hinge remains intact...

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send up vertical stems easily reached by deer

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Either way copious amounts of new screening cover and plentiful browse is available

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In the background here you can see the unhinged area and how open it is, devoid of cover and browse

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Compared to the hinged area where I can see only a few yards rather then hundreds of yards

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He hinged some sizable trees in this area and because of that really opened up canopy!

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The leaves are still obvious on this hinged tree!

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A chainsaw sure makes a difference in these open timber settings! :way:
 
Some pretty good sized trees' were tipped over last year in this hinged area!

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This is pretty common when hinging shagbarks...they stay pretty high up!

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Simply reducing canopy allows the whole area to become a whitetail haven!

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The bed in it and feed in it

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the one thing they don't do however

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is travel through it

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there is a beat down runway following around the exterior but one could easily cut a path through the hinge cuts if need be.

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This is the area we are working on now...wide open...no cover...no feed...no reason for deer to be there!

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It easy to see how heavily hinged areas can succeed in funneling deer around them so with a little thought you can leave a narrow, natural travel corridor open by a stand. Traveling bucks will choose the open route even though they might at other times of the year bed in the hinged areas... :way:
 
When you hinge cut now, do the trees live better or worse than if you hinge cut when the sap starts running in the spring?????????
 
When you hinge cut now, do the trees live better or worse than if you hinge cut when the sap starts running in the spring?????????

I haven't noticed any difference but some species may react differently then others. If the hinge is intact...they remain alive most of the time.

In the timber where I am doing TSI now the stand consists of mostly white and red oaks with a smattering of hickories and elms mixed in. It's already been logged and that has opened up canopy already so my first target is the shade tolerant weed tree...ironwood!

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I'm hinging every one of those I see

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and then "messing it up" by hinging some of the co-dominate species like hickory and elm

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Some places are thicker

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others not so much simply because there is not much to work with

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TSI is crop tree release that in cases like this is primarily weed tree removal and under the cost share agreement there must be a minimum of X number of crop trees per acre so the forester sets guidelines in the Forest Stewardship Plan that we must follow to receive cost share.

It is important when we have good oak and/or walnut stands not to destroy the stand itself and opening up canopy too much can do just that. Open grown oak seedlings will have poor timber value because they will have limbs instead of a tall straight trunk (open grown oak = Savannah oak)

Every timber is different and for that reason being guided by a competent forester is extremely important :way:
 
Dbltree Questions

Do you work with yourself or do you have someone that helps you?

Would hinged trees live longer if someone was pulling them over while you were cutting with a homeade tool that is about 6 foot long with a "u" shape end to grab onto the trees up high?

Maybe if the tree doesn't live that is no big deal because it would allow more sunlight to the ground?

Why is it better if the hinge cut trees live?

THANKS A TON DBLTREE! YOU TRULY ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Do you work with yourself or do you have someone that helps you?

Would hinged trees live longer if someone was pulling them over while you were cutting with a homeade tool that is about 6 foot long with a "u" shape end to grab onto the trees up high?

Maybe if the tree doesn't live that is no big deal because it would allow more sunlight to the ground?

Why is it better if the hinge cut trees live?

THANKS A TON DBLTREE! YOU TRULY ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The hinged trees just provide more cover and browse because they send up vertical stems that deer can feed on but...the stump will send up many new stems as well so it's not a huge problem if they break off.

The hinged trees also provide cover in and of themselves because they are off the ground as you can see by the pictures. If the hinge remains intact they will almost always live...if the tree breaks off obviously only the stump remains alive.

Opening up canopy is really the main advantage here and yes...you can have someone help push them over but the weigfht of the tree may still cause it to snap off. Start with smaller trees first and try to steer clear of hinging larger trees for safety reasons. I have hinged some 12" trees but 4-8" are safer and easier to work with...;)
 
Another day of TSI/hinging...girdling larger trees to release crop trees and hinging smaller weed trees

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It doesn't take long to turn an open area

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into a dense thicket of cover

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That will erupt with new growth this spring

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Allowing sunlight to the forest floor will allow young oaks to survive and plenty of forbs and new browse to grow.

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I have cut for 2 weeks straight from dawn til dark, a vary diverse species of trees and thus far not a single tree has done anything but tip over. The angle cut keeps them from tipping backwards and they simply fall over but please be safe an start with smaller trees first. Experiment with the species of weed trees in your timber and decide which method of cut seems to work well for you.

Remember chainsaw chaps, helmet with face protection and if possible wait for warm days without snow. It is important to be able to move back and snow can make it slippery and easy to loose your footing, especially on steep slopes common here in SE Iowa.

Ice cleats on your boots can be helpful when working in snow so consider giving those a try and if at all possible, take someone with you for safety reasons..... :way:
 
Just a few pics of the hinges themselves from the job I have been working on lately...

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I work fast and furious because I have so much to do but those who have more time and help can play around and experiment with different cuts, heights, direction of fall etc. and see what works best for them and then...check back next winter and see if any of that really made a difference to the deer or not? ;)
 
Here is a point of view from a forester on the subject of hinging, obviously different but with some valid points that landowners should consider.

Hinging offers instant cover regardless if the trees live or not but the "mess" it creates is a forester/loggers worst nightmare. It is important to not destroy valuable tree species and also important to recognize that properly done TSI (girdling cull trees) will also make a profound difference in the understory with a marked increase in cover and browse.

I share this article simply to offer another view (not my own) to help landowners understand the options, especially those who prefer not to have their timber look like a tornado went thru it as most of mine does....;)

HINGING –

Hinging is the term used for the practice of partially cutting through a standing tree until the tree crown falls while leaving as much connective tissue intact as possible between stem’s portions above and below the cut. The objective of the practice is to develop quick cover while retaining a partially live crown resulting in a ‘green brush pile’. This is a useful tool for field edges, and when used in moderation and with knowledge aforethought, within the interior of woodlands. I have seen this practice misused so many times, though, that it makes me cringe. Believe me, any fool can buy a chainsaw and make a mess and this seems to happen most often when a landowner reads some magazine or other reference which refers to hinging as THE way to make cover. The real problem is that there is usually no foresight and little knowledge used when applying the practice.

Oftentimes, only a portion of the crown of a hinged tree remains alive because too small a percentage of tissue at the hinge remained intact and undamaged. Then only sprouts from the cut surface, bole and base of the tree remain. The sprouting capability of a tree stem decreases as it grows larger in diameter. The sprouting capability of a 3-inch diameter stem, for example, is roughly 3 times what it is for a 10-inch diameter stem of the same species. Also, sprouting vigor varies from one tree species to another. The sprouting properties of trees are used as a tool in some forestry applications. However, when sprouts are touted as browse material for deer, one important consideration is usually forgotten – with hinge cuts, the sprouts will soon grow above browse height unless the deer concentration is exceedingly high and the number of hinge cuts is low. Once above browse height, the sprouts present a problem. Sure, they’re still making a mess but they soon grow into larger stems which serve little purpose for any wildlife species and adversely affect any desirable tree regeneration which may develop. Sprouts growing from the edge of a cut surface are weakly attached and as they grow in diameter they are increasingly prone to breaking off. Any portion of a crown which does remain alive usually declines over time. The lifespan of these damaged trees is shortened by disease and breakage and seed production is undependable. A site which has been laid waste to hinged trees resembles an early succession stand of young trees and shrubs (thick cover) but it is much less likely to succeed into a desirable stand with desirable tree species. It is also difficult to go back into the hinged site and correct the situation.

Timber stand improvement is the term used for a collection of woodland management practices used to alter a woodland for a multiple of landowner objectives. Thinning, crop tree release, weed tree removal, site preparation for natural regeneration and crop tree pruning are the t.s.i. practices most commonly used in southern Iowa. Application of some or all of these practices is the alternative to making just hinge cuts when quick cover is an objective. T.s.i. will result in a greater variety of groundcover, a thicker understory (cover) resulting from increased exposure to sunlight, increased regeneration of desired tree species, increased mast production for wildlife, reduced regeneration of undesirable species, and increased income potential. An example of a t.s.i. practice: Selectively release desirable species, e.g. white oak, black oak, by deadening competing trees of less desirable species. Some of the smaller competing trees and weed trees could be hinged during the dormant season while others could be felled during the growing season to provide some thick cover for bedding and turkey nesting the following season. The rest of the trees to be deadened, especially ones larger than 10 inches d.b.h., could be double-girdled or frilled and left standing to serve as snags for woodpeckers as well as other insect-foraging birds and for secondary nesters which use excavated woodpecker holes such as nuthatches, chickadees and flying squirrels. These activities still result in thick cover but the t.s.i.-treated stands, as opposed to hinged stands, will continue to develop into desirable stands. Timber stand improvement practices, when coupled with a multiple of objectives including wildlife, benefit a lot more species of wildlife than just deer and turkey.

Getting back to the subject of hinging, if you are going to make a hinge cut under any circumstance, be sure you know your tree species so that you retain those species which are of the greatest wildlife and commercial value. With that in mind, also be aware that a woodland with a good diversity of tree and shrub species is much more beneficial to a wide variety of both game and nongame species than one which is predominantly 2 or 3 tree species with a thin shrub understory. Don’t target a tree species for reduction or elimination unless it is a problem species such as ironwood or black locust. I commonly see shagbark hickory deadened through a woodland because the landowner ‘learned’ that hickories are worthless and that getting rid of hickory is the way to help out the oak resource. This rationale uses too broad a brush. Hickories serve a lot of wildlife species, too, though not so many as the oaks. Instead of targeting hickory in general, release oak crowns as they need it and make openings where less desirable species such as ash and elm dominate locations next to oak seed trees.

When making a hinge cut, the percent of stem circumference which remains intact will determine how much, if any, of the felled crown will remain alive. The greater the lean of the stem from a vertical plane, the greater the success because a greater percentage of the total circumference will remain intact and unruptured. The smaller the stem, the greater the success. Timing is important, too. The tree must be dormant. Mid to late winter is better than mid to late fall. Avoid making the cuts when the temperature is really cold because the tissue is more likely to fracture rather than bending at the ‘hinge’.

If you plan to hinge some trees along a woodland edge to favor upland game, consider a two-step approach. During the spring or summer before the winter in which you’ll do the hinging, identify the trees you plan to hinge. Identify where a tree’s crown will fall and then, using any glyphosate-based postemergent herbicide (e.g. Roundup, Cornerstone and others), spray an area at least 50% larger than the crown size. The resulting weed growth which will develop after the grass dies will be much more useful to quail and pheasant chicks than the dense grass cover would have been. Broadcasting some ladino or red clover seed into the sprayed areas would also benefit chicks because they require high-protein insects for early development and insects are attracted to legumes.

Duane Bedford
Retired District Forester
Chariton, Iowa
 
Thanks for sharing that info Paul.

Duane makes some very important points that we need to consider. I personally feel that a combination of girdling and hinge cutting is important. I prefer to have a traditional "TSI" (primarily girdling) done on my entire timber and hinge cutting done in areas where I want to create immediate/long term bedding areas.

Every timber is unique and all landowners don't have the same objectives. Having someone like you or a forester involved in developing a forestry plan is very important before getting started.

Great info and thanks for all the time you dedicate to helping educate us!
 
There are many reasons to hinge trees or open up canopy to increase the density of lower understory, but providing safe bedding is perhaps one of the more important reasons. Where then do deer like to bed? What common denominators are there that cause them to choose and particular spot to lie down?

Working on TSI projects across southern Iowa gives me a broader view of such things then we might normally get from just our own land and the following are beds I stumble upon while marking crop trees.

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So what do all of those beds have in common?

Elevation and in almost every case they preferred to have their backs against either a tree or a small downed branch or log. A couple were under a cedar tree but I suspect they were more interested in the tree trunk itself rather then the overhanging branch.

Those are just natural beds and these deer did have plenty of other options. Observe the natural bedding habits on your property this winter to keep some perspective on your hinging projects and note their choices after you hinge as well. After years of observation and hinging trees I have found only one bed under the trunk of a hinged tree while all others (depending on the slope) were backed up to the downed tree or laying above it (overlooking the downed tree)

When confronted with danger deer must be able to leap to their feet and make a hasty and unimpeded escape, laying under something might be akin to us trying to escape from under the kitchen table....just food for thought but as always, make your own observations on your property and then make the habitat changes you feel will be most effective.... ;)
 
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