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Grafting fruit trees

dbltree

Super Moderator
Some links to Grafting Fruit Trees

Grafting Fruit Trees


Grafting


Grafting Apple trees

Maybe we can take a cue from vman and "graft" a tree on here next spring
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Of course I have no idea what I'm doing but the investment is pretty cheap!
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(especially since Central Iowa is providing the grafts
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I know you can graft different types of apples and I think even apples and pears on one rootstock...although I'm not sure on that one
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I know that by grafting, every tree will be exactly like the parent, unlike trees produced from seed.

If anybody has any knowledge in this are...please share!
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I've been out to Chug Wilson's apple orchard north of Iowa City at least twice for group grafting lessons. I still stink at it. Last time I talked to Chug, he mentioned that they tried grafting during the summer instead of the CW of spring time grafting. He claims they got 90% success and have never looked back. I did have one successfully grafted tree (until the deer busted it off this fall) and another tree has a yellow delicious branch on a MacIntosh tree. I think most of my problems have been with how the bud wood was stored prior to grafting.

Another thing I have picked up is be careful of what rootstock variety you acquire. I was given a bunch of East Malling VII and the stuff suckers like you wouldn't believe. Might not be too big a deal out in the timber, as the deer would most likely browse the suckers off. Most of the dwarfing rootstock produces a hard bitter apple that deer won't like (that is why you want the suckers cut out so they don't compete with the bud wood). I guess for wildlife trees, a person would like "standard" (full size) rootstock anyway.

I bet I could talk Chug into a field day if a group wanted to go that route.
 
So, now, if, uh, hmmmmm. Picture me with one arm folded across my chest, the other hand is touching my chin and my head is cocked off to one side, you know, that quiscal look somebody gives you when they are stuggling to understand.

So if all future fruit is like, genetically speaking, the parent tree, is it similar to cloning?

I've got an apple tree in my yard that has two different kinds of apples from a common trunk. I always assumed it was a grafted tree and grafted trees bear both grafted and host fruit. Wrong? Maybe what I'm missing is this, do you remove the host tree from above the graft so only the graft will grow?

You know, if I wasn't so darn buzy doin nothin today I'd follow the links and probably get my questions aswered. But, what can I say. Why work when somebody else will?

The 'Bonker
 
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I bet I could talk Chug into a field day if a group wanted to go that route.

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That might be an idea!
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I know Tom Wahl was grafting in the summer also.

I'm not pretending to know even a little about grafting...but it looked easy
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I think almost all fruit trees are grafted that you purchase comercially.

If I remember correctly I think Tom was using a wild pear to graft the Asian Pear to but I don't remember what he told me about the Liberty apples.

Bonker...are you going to be our "group leader"??
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Bonk,
You don't want the host (rootstock) to do anything but support the grafted material. You want to remove any branches that sprout from the rootstock (suckers come from the base, remove those too). If you are getting two types of edible apples from one tree, someone grafted two different bud stocks into it. Host fruit from most rootstock is highly undesirable: tastes bad, small, hard, etc.
 
I planted a bunch of apple trees this spring and need to prun the existing apple and pear trees on the place. I may have to try a few grafts on the new shoots this spring/summer
 
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Bonk,
You don't want the host (rootstock) to do anything but support the grafted material. You want to remove any branches that sprout from the rootstock (suckers come from the base, remove those too). If you are getting two types of edible apples from one tree, someone grafted two different bud stocks into it. Host fruit from most rootstock is highly undesirable: tastes bad, small, hard, etc.

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I'm curious where one get's the rootstock from? I mean...what nursery is going to sell most rootstock is highly undesirable: tastes bad, small, hard, etc.
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Some things I understand like this:

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If you haven't thought about how it works before now ... a particular variety of apple cannot come from a seed — it must come from a graft. A seed is going to be the product of pollination, and you never know quite what you will get.



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and I assume that there are specific sources for rootstock:

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A cutting of the desired tree (a scion) is grafted on the desired root stock. Root stocks are purchased, usually in bundles of 100.

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The size of the tree will be dependent on the rootstock...not the graft:

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One chooses a root stock to give the desired size of grown tree. Most growers choose medium or dwarf sized trees.

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Sounds like once you get the hang of grafting it doesn't take long (unless one has "learning disabilities" like me
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make about 25 grafts, at about a minute per graft

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I'm just wondering if the "rootstock" would need to be purchased in early spring and planted, perhaps in rows like in a garden...and then graft to them later
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Any advice on that part Bronc?
 
Chug has all his rootstock in a row and digs out what he needs. I myself would prefer to have it in pots, that way you can grab a pot and head to the field with less transplanting shock. The disadvantage of pots are that you are going to have to watch them closely so that you don't forget to water them and they dry out. Last time I got a bunch of rootstock, I planted it where I wanted it, as then you can graft in to it any time, multiple times (as many as you need to get a bud to take!).

It appears the company where I used to get rootstock has gone out of business, but I'm sure there are other vendors. While searching for a source, I ran across this Grafting page. It talks on most aspects of fruit trees.

I'll have to sort through this list to see if I recognize any companies that sell rootstock.

Growing apple trees from seed for wildlife shouldn't be a problem. Most likely the flower got pollinated from another popular apple variety in the orchard. A person might stumble onto a new variety and become rich and famous. The Red Delicious was discovered right here in Iowa! The reason most people use rootstock is they want to control the eventual size of the tree due to limited space in their yard or orchard. Out in the woods/pasture, size might not be an issue. Though different rootstocks can offer disease and pest resistance.

I guess the benefit to us of using rootstock is that you will have old enough material to bud into the day it arrives. Pot it, graft into it, watch it for 2 weeks to see if the graft took, plant it out.

I think the hardest thing is going to be getting bud wood. A person should harvest it when it is dormant (Jan/Feb) and then store it until ready to use. I tried to wrap the cut ends of the branches in wet sphagum moss, wrap it in plastic and keep it in the refrig. Most home refrigerators are frost free and essentially dry things out (in the freezer). Not sure if this takes place in the main compartment as well. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I think this is why my success rate has been so poor, improperly stored bud stock.

So when Chug told me about August grafting I was intrigued. Walk up to a growing apple tree, cut a branch tip off and walk over to rootstock and graft in! He said he got 6-12" of new growth that fall.
 
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Walk up to a growing apple tree, cut a branch tip off and walk over to rootstock and graft in! He said he got 6-12" of new growth that fall.

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Tom has his root stock in raised beds with some type of growing medium so he just "pulls" them out when ready to plant
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I've done the same thing with pots just placing them in a loose black dirt mix covered with fine wood mulch.

That way you can keep them moist but just pull the pots when your ready to plant.

Planting trees in this clay around here...is only slightly easier then digging a hole in a cement block, so I prefer to only plant them...

once
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