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Let’s talk arrows

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newfarmer

Well-Known Member
So over the years let me be honest- I grabbed an arrow and shot it. I’ve tuned, made sure all is good- but I feel like I want to “geek out” with some arrow setups. Specifically I’m thinking I want more FOC, heavier arrow for a few west planned trips. Mule deer and Elk specifically, already killed antelope with my bow so mainly aiming at heavier framed game.
So my questions- am I overthinking things and can I just add a 125 grain broadhead to get me started in the right direction? Or do I need to completely start from scratch? I’m ok with that- just want to get my mind prepared.
29” draw, 70 lb bow currently
 
newfarmer said:
So over the years let me be honest- I grabbed an arrow and shot it. I’ve tuned, made sure all is good- but I feel like I want to “geek out” with some arrow setups. Specifically I’m thinking I want more FOC, heavier arrow for a few west planned trips. Mule deer and Elk specifically, already killed antelope with my bow so mainly aiming at heavier framed game.
So my questions- am I overthinking things and can I just add a 125 grain broadhead to get me started in the right direction? Or do I need to completely start from scratch? I’m ok with that- just want to get my mind prepared.
29” draw, 70 lb bow currently
Click to expand...
What is your current arrow weight, total?
 
newfarmer said:
So over the years let me be honest- I grabbed an arrow and shot it. I’ve tuned, made sure all is good- but I feel like I want to “geek out” with some arrow setups. Specifically I’m thinking I want more FOC, heavier arrow for a few west planned trips. Mule deer and Elk specifically, already killed antelope with my bow so mainly aiming at heavier framed game.
So my questions- am I overthinking things and can I just add a 125 grain broadhead to get me started in the right direction? Or do I need to completely start from scratch? I’m ok with that- just want to get my mind prepared.
29” draw, 70 lb bow currently
Click to expand...
If you start adding more tip weight, you may need to up your arrow spine as well
 
Setups are always personal. I wrote something up for a beginning hunter a couple years ago. Covers my thinking on arrows:

Arrows:
In my opinion, the arrows and arrowheads that you use make all the difference for good penetration. My setup is probably unique to most, but I am a big believer in a relatively high FOC (Front of Center) for best penetration vs trajectory tradeoff. I also think beginners are best served with mechanical blades, as they are more forgiving with a bow that may not be well tuned. My arrow setup runs about 515 grains (not super light, nor super heavy).

My setup:
*Arrow Shaft:* Victory VAP - Elite, 300 spine
- I like the micro-diameter, but they are more expensive. Any thickness will work. The trend is towards heavy arrows. I prefer lighter ones for flatter trajectory with high FOC.

- Some people will buy cheaper arrows to practice with. I don’t recommend that. I always use the same arrows and setup for hunting that I use for practice. Just make sure you have a good backdrop so you don’t lose arrows.

- The spine will be custom to your draw length and bow poundage–the lower the number, the stiffer the arrow spine.

*fletchings* I purchase my arrows with the fletchings already attached. When I need to replace fletchings, I take them to the archery shop.
- 2024 Update: This year I wrapped and fletched my own with 2” Blazers. Worked really well.

*Insert/Outsert*: 95grain
Because I like high FOC, I use a 95 grain outsert for my arrows.

*Knock:* DeepPower Lighted knocks
I prefer lighted knocks. This helps in recovering arrows. These are the best bang for the buck that I’ve found.

- 2024 Update: This year, I did not use lighted knocks. I used a fluorescent orange wrap and fletchings that show up bright with a black light. This improved my FOC because lighted knocks add more weight to the back of the bow. I have also heard good things about Halo lighted knocks.

- 2025 update: using Halo brand lighted knocks. Much lighter. Easy to turn off without a special tool.

*Broadhead:* 100gr G5 Deadmeat mechanical
I’ve had great success with these heads. Replaceable blades. It also comes with a practice head that will emulate the real head, so you can save the blades for hunting.
- 2024 Update: I also keep a G5 Montec fixed broadhead in my quiver for certain circumstances.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My take on arrows/ broadhead.
At typical whitetail range, 25 and under, a well tuned [ bow] should be able to put most any arrow into the kill zone.
I've found no reason need to spend big money for close range shots.
One thing I like to do is fletch with feathers. It can and does make a world of difference on pass through.
 
Might go with a 125 up front. I would not obsess about FOC or heavy arrow weight.
Many of the greatest bow hunters(super accurate shots and hard core hunters like super slam hunters) could care less about
FOC and most like about 425 to 450 grain arrow. Always go with what is most accurate.
Research vane noise. I used to shoot feathers and then switched to blazers. I now run X3s by Bohning they are super quiet in the air. Had no idea how loud blazers were until I shot X3s.
My boys run 32" draw lengths. They are running 4mm axis with factory included 55 gr halfout and 100 grain heads. FOC is probably pretty low considering arrow length and heavy vanes, but they recently hit 10, 8, 10 and 10, 0, 10 on a 95 yard pronghorn, 102 yard ram, and 107 yard elk. Accuracy trumps all.
 
I think I have a pretty good balance with my arrow setup between speed and weight FOC.

73# draw at 28"
Black Eagle Rampage 300 spine arrows
50gr half-out insert
125gr broadhead (I like a fixed, slick trick magnum or magnus black hornet)
3 fletch AAE vanes
Lighted nock

Total arrow weight is around 470 and they have always *knocks on wood* given me two holes in a deer.
 
CottonwoodCanyon said:
I think I have a pretty good balance with my arrow setup between speed and weight FOC.

73# draw at 28"
Black Eagle Rampage 300 spine arrows
50gr half-out insert
125gr broadhead (I like a fixed, slick trick magnum or magnus black hornet)
3 fletch AAE vanes
Lighted nock

Total arrow weight is around 470 and they have always *knocks on wood* given me two holes in a deer.
Click to expand...
Very similar setup to what I run and have shot elk and recently my second moose and have never had an issue with a 460 grain arrow, 100 grain tip and 285 fps speed. Kinetic energy and momentum I pay attention to and if your bow is tuned shooting arrows straight it will get the job done at reasonable distances with similar setups. Huge trade off between weight and trajectory. If you plan to shoot a bull moose at 60+ yards and you happen to hit a rib on the entry I’d say you are rolling dice but at that distance a heavy arrow or significant FOC may be dropping a lot. All the elk and both bull moose have had pass throughs with fixed broadheads and similar setups and average FOC as CottonwoodCanyon mentioned above. In my opinion and I have tracked several deer, mechanical broadheads do not replace a well tuned bow. Not starting an argument but be careful if you plan to use mechanical broadheads on elk and or moose or even deer. SOME mechanicals eat a lot of kinetic energy on the entrance and if you hit a rib you could get into trouble. Just my $.02.
 
My current setup. Not right or wrong just preferences. Next build will be back to 300 shaft for lil more forgiveness. I was on border of 250 and 300.

Screenshot_20251029_181625_Gallery.jpg
 
I am not a western hunter at all, but I do nerd out pretty heavily on arrows as I build my own. Here is my quick advice followed up with my "2" setups

FOC matters and doesn't matter. There is such a thing as too much and maybe not enough. I believe the ideal setup runs around 13-16% FOC.
FOC has really came into play from interweb knuckleheads that follow Dr. Ashby and live and die by his word (I was once this interweb knucklehead)..But here is the truth, we are not hunting dangerous game with armored plates on their sides. We are hunting whitetails, elk, etc which are pretty "easy" to penetrate.

TAW (Total arrow weight). I have shot very heavy arrows and the one thing I will tell you about a heavy arrow is it definitely quiets your bow significantly, but that IMO is the only advantage to a heavy arrow. What I believe a guy or gal should do is get the heaviest arrow you can while staying as close to 300 fps as you can. This is going to be dependent on draw length, bow poundage and draw weight. I am not saying that everyone needs to shoot 300 fps. Someone with a 26" draw is going to have a harder time getting to 300fps compared to someone shooting a 30" draw. So here are some examples; if you can only shoot a 60lb bow and your arrow has 14% FOC then you may only be able to shoot a 410 gr arrow at 268fps. (All those figures are completely made up). Then this maybe be the heaviest arrow that you can shoot the fastest. My point is that you are achieving good FOC and good speed at the heaviest arrow you can shoot.

Speed used to be something we cared about way back in the 90's and early 2000's. We shot light arrows with over-draws and all sorts of gimmicks to obtain more speed. Now we are in the fad of shooting 12lb arrows with single bevel broadheads. Whats right? Hell, I dont know. All I can tell you is what I believe. Because at the end of the day whether you are shooting a 350 grain arrow or 550 grain arrows if you shoot the animal in the heart it will die, quickly.

I am a firm believer in shooting over 300 fps and here is why. And this is especially for the western guys but not to discredit its importance in whitetail hunting as well. A flat shooting arrow is far more efficient than an arrow that is "lobbed". Also, the pin gaps shrink making quick decisions easier. And the obvious one of string jump which is far less with a faster shooting bow. I am also ok with shooting a whitetail at 50 yards because our equipment is so much for efficient than it was even 10 years ago.

I had my rotator cuff put back on back in May, so I was forced to shoot a lower poundage bow this season so here was my setup:
60lb bow
30" Draw
478 gr TAW 250 spine Sirius Orion
14% FOC

I will be going back to:
80lb bow
30" draw
478 gr TAW 250 spine Sirius Orion
14% FOC

These are just my opinions. I have shot several arrows over the past few years, but I am firm believer in micro diameter arrows to reduce wind draw as well as the drag to push through an animal.
I also believe that people need to start practicing shooting differently. STOP trying to shoot every deer in the heart, stop hugging that shoulder. Shooting 3" behind the shoulder and shoot for lungs. It is equally just as effective and will keep you from hitting the shoulder. I once cared about hitting a deer in the shoulder, but no more. I aim lungs 95% of the time and never have to worry about blowing through a shoulder. Learn proper shot execution and you will hit your spot every time.
 
Great thoughts. With an 80# bow and 30" draw, heavy ish arrow and good FOC, I sure wouldn't be worried about a shoulder either! But I understand the sentiment of aiming off the shoulder. What is your broadhead of choice with that setup and why?
 
CottonwoodCanyon said:
Great thoughts. With an 80# bow and 30" draw, heavy ish arrow and good FOC, I sure wouldn't be worried about a shoulder either! But I understand the sentiment of aiming off the shoulder. What is your broadhead of choice with that setup and why?
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I shoot the G5 mega meats. I have been on a quest over the past few years to find "the" broadhead. There have been many trials and tribulations. One thing I will tell you for certain is that I will never shoot another single bevel broadhead again. It will only ever be expandables. Just finding the right one. I really want to shoot the beast broadhead but I am having a moral dilemma with that one. The buck I shot this year with the mega-meat was a perfect quartering away shot rear part of lung entry and exit right behind the opposite shoulder. Great blood for 10 yards then nearly on hands and knees trying to find blood. Luckily he only went about 80-90 yards and was dead but pretty difficult blood trail. So until I find another head I want to try I will continue to shoot the megameats as the hole size is unreal but I am still not 100% satisfied.
 
I'm in the same boat with beast...solid reviews but I don't think I can support. I've been shooting Magnus black hornets for the last 5 years and I've been really happy. They're a little big for a fixed blade but if you can get them tuned right they are killer. Razor sharp out of the box. American company and they mean "lifetime warranty". I've had two blades get damaged in targets and they replace them, no questions asked.
 
Arrows for whitetails are really a pretty simple thing. The most important thing is shot placement, followed by SHARP. I have a 31" draw length and shoot 84# draw weight. I can run a relatively light arrow with a big 3 blade mechanical with zero issues. My 10 year old daughter shoots 31# at a 20.5" draw length. She runs a 288 grain arrow with hand sharpened magnus stinger 4 blades at 161 fps. That is only 16.5 foot pounds of energy. It made an entry and an exit hole in both deer she killed this year.

The arrow discussion is all over the archery internet. Find something that hits where you aim and kill things. You don't need a 550 grain arrow at 280 fps with a single bevel cut on contact to have enough penetration. Everything about arrow builds is give and take, but you don't get extra points for how far the arrow buries in the dirt after a pass-through..
 
I’ve read it all and screwed around with it all.. failed at it all too!! lol. I actually believe all sides have a valid argument. There are real benefits to the heavy weight/heavy foc argument… BUT you also have to buy into the 20-25 yard ranges where this all works best. If i’m being honest, I’m an extremely average hunter and archer. I can tell myself a 30 yard shot is my max forever but we all know in crunch time most of us will stretch that. Since I tend to lie to myself about my abilities, I think a midweight arrow somewhere between a 415-510ish grain arrow is best for MOST people depending on draw weight/length. Stick to the averages. Most of the time it’ll work best, I base my opinion on my failures.. Whenever I have stretched bow/arrow performance I’ve been sadly reminded I’m not as good as I thought. Gotta find your personal sweet spot in ability/lethality. Let me know when u figure it all out!
 
booneriverbucks said:
I think a midweight arrow somewhere between a 415-510ish grain arrow is best for MOST people depending on draw weight/length. Stick to the averages.
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Agree 100%. This weight range is a good blend of lethality and trajectory. Pick what works best for you.

Another thing that is overlooked at times is arrow diameter. Smaller diameter arrows tend to be more forgiving for pass through and wind drift. Handy for those shooting lower KE setups.
 
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