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My wife's fault

JNRBRONC

Well-Known Member
While at WalMart a couple of weeks ago, my wife wanted to tour the live plant display in the parking lot. We happened to pass by the apple trees and I was surprised to see that they had a variety named Haralson. That "planted the seed" so to speak. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

I had read that this variety is very winter hardy (having been developed through the University of Minnesota horticulture program). I also read that it is such a heavy producer as to break branches and that chemical or mechanical(hand) thinning of fruit might be necessary. The card hanging on the tree said that the use of a pollinator tree would assure heavy crops.Well, today I decided to plant one tree. I figure that by itself and in a valley where it might lose some blossoms to late frosts, it shouldn't set enough fruit as to break limbs (and as a wildlife tree, who cares if it does?). There are apple trees within about 400 yards, so there should be some cross pollination. Push come to shove, I'll plant a pollinator near it in the future.

I selected the "whippiest" tree they had and then cut most all lateral branches off after planting. I plan to prune it so there are no branches lower than the 6 foot cage it is in, since the deer would browse anything lower anyways.

I'm sure the planting of this tree pretty much assures that the weather will turn hot and dry so that watering all summer will be necessary. At least I can drive right to it with the truck. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
haralson.JPG


The cage in the background with a white plastic grocery bag is an oak tree I planted today. Earlier this year I found a huge acorn laying under a bush in the front yard. It was cracked in half and this told me that it was trying to germinate. I grabbed an empty plastic pot from the garage, filled it with dirt and planted the acorn. Sure enough, it sprouted into an oak tree. I figured it was going to be easier to take care of it if I planted it, as the pot might have a tendancy to dry out rapidly. Also, with it being such a small tree, there wouldn't be much transplant shock. I guess I'll water it when I tend to the apple tree.
acorn.JPG
 
The bucks are already chomping at the bit to rub the hell out of those little guys... through the cages. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Nice job on the fencing Randy! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif

Just remember...when you kill a big ole buck cause he was enjoying them apples, give credit where credit is due... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: muddy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The bucks are already chomping at the bit to rub the hell out of those little guys... through the cages. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif </div></div>

Maybe two fence posts weren't enough??? /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif

The way I cage them you would think I've had a little trouble with deer damage. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Nice! I've always wanted to try apple trees but I've heard they're tricky and don't have a clue on how to begin planting them. Might be a good project idea for next year.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: THA4</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Randy, how long till apple trees begin to produce mast?? </div></div>

Maybe the better question is "how long till they produce enough mast to be a draw for deer".

I planted some apples a few years ago, maybe four now? They produced for teh first time last year, two apples on one tree and one on the other. This year looks like maybe a dozzen or so on each tree. The trees were probably at least 3 years old when I planted them. But there are so many variables, soil, sun, competition. Your results may vary.

The 'Bonker
 
I had every intent of doing a how to photo essay yesterday, but figured that few would be interested and it would turn into a huge post.

Planting apple trees isn't that hard. Neither is taking care of them since they are just being grown for wildlife use. Like everything though, if you try to maximize the yield, things can start to be complicated.

Since I was only planting one tree, I took my time and invested lots of effort. I've "quickly" planted a couple thousand trees in the past and I have little to show for it. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

I started by clearing a spot with a hand scythe. Then, I dug a very large hole. The instructions on the tree said to dig a hold 3 times bigger than the root ball of the tree and I would guess I was close. I mixed some old horse manure in with the dirt I had loosened in the bottom of the hole.

Depth of planting is important. You want to have the hole depth so that the ground is level with the top of the root ball of the potted tree. You can kind of see the graft union in the pic above. It is important that you don't plant the tree deeper than the graft union or the top grafted portion of the tree might sprout roots, defeating the benefit of the grafted root stock. I set the potted tree down in the hole to check for proper planting depth. When I was happy with the depth, I removed the root ball from the plastic container and stood the tree in the hole, filling in around it with loose dirt which I packed fairly firmly. Trapped air is bad for roots. I again added some old horse manure around the edge of the hole, trying not to have it touch the root ball. Last thing I want is to "burn" the roots with manure. The manure had been in the barn for a year or two, so it shouldn't be "hot" enough to burn the roots, but I didn't want to take chances. Once I had the hole filled up to the appropriate level, I took a piece of black plastic mulch that was bigger around than the cage I was using. Being larger than the cage diameter, the cage helps hold the mulch in place. I also covered the plastic mulch with horse manure. I felt this would prevent the black from absorbing too much sun and baking the roots below. For mulch on the oak tree, I used some oak bark I had from splitting firewood over top of the black plastic. Buried plastic mulch will prevent weeds from starting around the new tree and also helps to keep the soil moist.

The cage was 2X4 inch welded wire fencing from an old dog run, so I had it laying around. At six foot tall, the deer won't be reaching over it to browse the trees. The fence posts were old bent ones I had pulled. So I had all the caging materials on hand.

I have a bunch of "volunteer" oak trees I'd like to transplant from the yard, but I'm going to wait until this fall, after they go dormant.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: THA4</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Randy, how long till apple trees begin to produce mast?? </div></div>

Bonker pretty much answered this.

I noticed that many of the trees I had to choose from at WalMart had apples on them. I opted to buy one without any on it (more of selection of tree shape than anything else). If I had bought one with apples on it, I would have removed them. You don't want a transplanted tree investing effort in fruit. It is better to have that energy go to establishing roots and foliage.

I'm guessing I'll have a few apples next year, but it will be maybe 4 years before a crop that draws deer.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SEIowaDeerslayer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Will apple trees do well planted in any type of soil when watered properly? </div></div>

I'd say generally yes, if you have selected the rootstock properly.

Buying from WallyWorld, I have no idea what rootstock this tree is grafted on, kind of a bummer. Planting this tree was a somewhat hasty decision on my part. If you plan ahead, you can order cheaper and better trees. I think some nurseries were listed on another thread here.

The only place I think apples will be tough to grow in Iowa would be very sandy soil. Clays and loams should be fine.
 
I can't wait for 4 or 5 years to go by and the caging finally falls down and the orchard bandit plays hell with the trunk. Is it every year that I get a phone call or email the day after a big boy attacks the orchard? /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

Seriously though, good information on the apple tree planting, you're a regular Jonny Appleseed!
 
Looks Good!

I bought five apple trees from Wally World about four years ago to plant near one of my treestands. Caged them in, mulched them and they took off real well. I had someone undo the caging dig one up and steal it, yes they stole an apple tree /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif and a beaver made it's way through the fencing on another one of them and chewed the tree off at the base, of course it couldn't get it out of the caging. Other than that the three survivors are doing really well and producing apples.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rudd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I cannot tell a lie Jeremy....that was me that stole your apple tree. </div></div>

Yeah, well, should he feel lucky you didn't spray 'em for bugs from an unmarked pestacide container? /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

The 'Bonker
 
I have planted them before.
took 3 years to make apples grow.I hit them pretty heavy with 10 10 10 and that seemed to make them jump.
getting ready to transplant 3 to a deerier spot.
 
Good thread. I have rescued several apple trees on my little corner of the world by cutting trees around them. I then put some 10-10-10 around the drip line. I was told apple trees in the wild only produce every other year. Since I have given them some extra attention a couple have produced every year.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Good-bear</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I was told apple trees in the wild only produce every other year.</div></div>

The variety of the apple tree plays a roll in this as well as the weather. Unfortunately the Haralson variety I planted is a biennial bearer and thus I will be faced with low yield years. It will produce apples every year, though.
 
I had no idea there were trees that don't produce every year because it is their genetics. I always thought it was strictly weather. Huh. Learn somethin new every day.

So how do you figure this out? Lets say I wanted to plant two trees to be sure I had apples every year. How do I go about making sure I get an odd year producer and an even year producer?

The 'Bonker
 
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