Bucksnbears
Well-Known Member
Never have tried that blend.
Hawk32. Out of that blend you planted last year, do you " really" think all 12 species germed and grew into a viable plant?
Hawk32. Out of that blend you planted last year, do you " really" think all 12 species germed and grew into a viable plant?
Looks awesome!
I’d like to see the seed bag label. It’s probably all seed you could get from Welters. In my experience timing and rain affects my plantings more than anything. And sometimes you hit the seed rate and planting depth just right for your conditions. I’ll say it again though, it really looks good and I’d be hard pressed to do anything different with results like that.
I’d like to see the seed bag label. It’s probably all seed you could get from Welters. In my experience timing and rain affects my plantings more than anything. And sometimes you hit the seed rate and planting depth just right for your conditions. I’ll say it again though, it really looks good and I’d be hard pressed to do anything different with results like that.
Bassattackr
Well-Known Member
Yes, just a big mix of cereal grains, brassicas and clover.
Deadly Dozen includes Winter Hardy Oats, Winter Wheat, Winter Barley, Austrian Winter Peas, Tillage Radish, Purple Top Turnips, Rape Plus, Sugar Beets, Forage Collards, Impact Forage Collards, Crimson Clover and Oil Seed Radish.
Deadly Dozen includes Winter Hardy Oats, Winter Wheat, Winter Barley, Austrian Winter Peas, Tillage Radish, Purple Top Turnips, Rape Plus, Sugar Beets, Forage Collards, Impact Forage Collards, Crimson Clover and Oil Seed Radish.
Marty Edwards
PMA Member
FWIW, Paul Knox used to tell me to never mix my brassicas with cereal grains. Not saying I never did, but his opinion was it’s a no no. Planting brassicas in the same spot year after year can lead to some problems. His opinion was either split the plot or do strips of each then rotate the following year.
Also agree whole heartedly that you can build your own blend from Welters or other seed vendors vs “BOB” blends.
Yes. I didn’t know the man but I printed out his posts. I got away from plotting after his passing and it sure seems like a different take now- throw it all in the big seed box and let ‘er rip. I have been trying to reconcile the two different theories.
One other thing I see with that mix above- collards and especially sugar beets have a pretty long maturity. Sugar beets don’t like competition. I have never grown either but I typically don’t put in my plots until later. I know we aren’t necessarily growing plots for maturity and harvest but I cant help thinking maybe there is some better varieties? (And cheaper)
this. 100%
This 1000% needs to be separated & added to so it’s 3 blends. The first is sugar beets alone - like above says- complete waste & makes 0 sense.
2nd is Brassicas alone & then 3rd: all the rest in the blend that dbltree ran. I’d for sure be buying all these seeds individually & planting at different times if I wanted all these to be successful.
Bassattackr
Well-Known Member
Personally, I've gone back and forth.
If you really want the hunting magazine look - giant bulbs and leaves, you need to plant brassicas separately. Planting earlier allows you to get a head start on planting date for better leaf and bulb development, but also allows you to be more specific with their fertilizer requirements (Nitrogen applications). Dbltree outlines this very well in some of his earlier Brassica/Cereal Grain threads as others have mentioned.
However, I don't mind dumping them all together and planting around September 1 here in Mid MO. I still get decent bulbs (golf ball or bigger) and my cereal grains still get eaten to the ground. Side benefit - Also opens up more soil to frost seed clover in late winter.
For whatever reason, the deer "here" don't really go ham on Brassicas I see them doing in other places. They hit the leaves of rape and turnips some in early season.. Blowing snow and they aren't pulling bulbs out of the ground like on Winke's old MW Whitetail episodes I used to see. Planted for years and still no difference. If nothing else, they're good for the soil so they keep getting thrown in each year. I don't see the bulbs getting hit until Feb/March but I'm not 100% sure those bite marks are not from other animals.
Great topic / discussion however.
If you really want the hunting magazine look - giant bulbs and leaves, you need to plant brassicas separately. Planting earlier allows you to get a head start on planting date for better leaf and bulb development, but also allows you to be more specific with their fertilizer requirements (Nitrogen applications). Dbltree outlines this very well in some of his earlier Brassica/Cereal Grain threads as others have mentioned.
However, I don't mind dumping them all together and planting around September 1 here in Mid MO. I still get decent bulbs (golf ball or bigger) and my cereal grains still get eaten to the ground. Side benefit - Also opens up more soil to frost seed clover in late winter.
For whatever reason, the deer "here" don't really go ham on Brassicas I see them doing in other places. They hit the leaves of rape and turnips some in early season.. Blowing snow and they aren't pulling bulbs out of the ground like on Winke's old MW Whitetail episodes I used to see. Planted for years and still no difference. If nothing else, they're good for the soil so they keep getting thrown in each year. I don't see the bulbs getting hit until Feb/March but I'm not 100% sure those bite marks are not from other animals.
Great topic / discussion however.