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Stupid arrow/broadhead tuning question

idsman75

New Member
I am shooting Beeman ICS Hunters and am about to give Blackhawk Vapors a whirl. I'm going to test Muzzy 100's, Montec (100 gr), and another mechanical (probably Rocky Mountain Snyper).
How do you tune a broadhead to a carbon arrow? I have heard of people heating aluminum arrows and giving the broadhead a little turn but I don't think this would work with carbon. I guess this is supposed to find the point where the blades of the broadhead are in perfect "harmony" with regards to the fletching.

How do you tune a broadhead (assuming I go with a Muzzy or the Montec instead of the mechanical) with a carbon arrow?

The guy who runs the bow shop says I should stick with a mechanical broadhead if I'm shooting carbon and that it's pretty tough to tune anything non-mechanical to a carbon arrow.
 
The best way is to spin test the arrows. Cut the arrows to the proper length. Put the insert in using a slow set epoxy like the one from carbon express (game tracker). Mount the broadhead and spin it. Watch the tip of the broadhead for any wobble. If it doesn't spin true, turn the head and insert a little and spin again. The slow setting epoxy gives you plenty of time to get the inserts in place and gives a stronger bond than fast setting epoxy. You are doing the right thing by trying to "learn" how to tune your setup. Quick fix mechanicals aren't the answer for everything. Montec also has a tool out that is supposed to give you a perfectly flat and perpendicular surface for the broadhead to mount to if you have already glued the inserts in. I don't think you can go wrong with the montec or muzzy 100"s. Hope this helps. cf
 
To tell you the honest truth, I've shot dozens of different makes and models of both broadheads and arrows, carbon and aluminum. I've never had a problem with any kind of broadhead, except broadheads that were damaged such as bent blades, tips etc. If your bow is properly tuned, then the broadheads should fly true in my opinion if the arrow spins properly. Some of my friends have had problems with broadhead flight but it was quickly fixed by making sure everything on the bow was properly tuned, such as the nock point, rest etc. The only thing I have ever had to do is change my sites a little bit but thats about it. You got plenty of time to figure it out, and sounds like you are gonna try some excellent heads, goodluck in getting them tuned up and flying true.
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I've decided to keep using the Turbo Nock when I have my new Vapors made up. I was going to switch to vanes but the Turbo Nock has been working on my Beman ICS Hunter 340's.
 
As far as the overall procedure, carbons will tune no differently than other shafts,whether its aluminum, carbon, wood, fiberglass, etc.

Alignment of your broadheads and vanes makes no difference...EXCEPT that it makes for consistancy coming out of the bow. Archers paradox is the flexing of the shaft as the force is applied by the string. If all the blades are aligned the same, they will plane/steer the arrow consistantly till they settle and vanes stabilize, and your groups will tighten some. Its not doing it right everytime...its doing it the same every time.

DO NOT heat up the carbon shafts. If you do, the carbon fibers will begin to unravel and your now short one arrow.
 
Arrowsmith thanks for the info.I got a hell of a deal this weekend.i'll tell you about it Monday.
 
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