Buck Hollow Sporting Goods - click or touch to visit their website Midwest Habitat Company

Tree Planting

Dbltree,
The local Co-op carries a High surfactant oil concentrate that contains 92% paraffin oil with fructose corn syrup and fatty esters. The remaining 8% is spray adjuvant. The label says to be used at 1 pint per acre as it is highly concentrated ( as opposed to 1 qt per acre with conventional crop oil concentrate ). I put a full qt in the 3.5 gal sprayer last year and was thinking I should back down and use 1 pint per 3.5 gallons with a quart each of prowl and simazine. Does that make sense based on the label?. The product name is SuperB hc. High Surfactant Oil Concentrate. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
SoDakarcher said:
Dbltree,
The local Co-op carries a High surfactant oil concentrate that contains 92% paraffin oil with fructose corn syrup and fatty esters. The remaining 8% is spray adjuvant. The label says to be used at 1 pint per acre as it is highly concentrated ( as opposed to 1 qt per acre with conventional crop oil concentrate ). I put a full qt in the 3.5 gal sprayer last year and was thinking I should back down and use 1 pint per 3.5 gallons with a quart each of prowl and simazine. Does that make sense based on the label?. The product name is SuperB hc. High Surfactant Oil Concentrate. Thanks for your thoughts.
Click to expand...

We have better luck with 2 quarts each simazine and Prowl in 3 gal BP sprayer and pint CCO is probably plenty. Direct spray around base of trees if possible to avoid burning leaves with the crop oil...add 12 ounces clethodim if grasses are present
 
Looks like Shumard and Cherrbark oak are thriving on the MO/IA line.

I'll be planting more of them in the near future on the 1/2 mile of creek bottom that needs some timber quality reds...

Cherrybark Oak



Shumard Oak

 
Southern Red oak on the creek bottom made it through being planted last spring and last years drought...looks great now and putting on lots of new growth.

Will for sure be adding more of these in the near future too.

 
Anyone ever plant pecan trees? Do deer and Turkeys like them? I was talking to a guy tonight that said there was a native population of them growing a half hour from my place. I didnt think they would grow this far north but apparently they do and do produce nuts.
 
Fred I know deer love them. When driving through Oklahoma, etc. I always notice the Pecan orchards are full of deer. I have heard we can grow them I do not know what variety would be best here with our shorter season but would like to try them myself.
 
Good grief!!! Thought I lost this "tree" was looking for the cage and could not hardly find it standing right next to it!! :)

Thing was only about 3' tall last year...was not expecting to find this.



Here is the same tree in 2011....going to spend some time cutting the cage off from around this sucker...guess I could just cut of stems for scion wood too on the lower branches to give to someone who can actually get a graft to take...unlike me :D

 
letemgrow - that's a pleasant surprise for sure. I am new to the tree planting gig....what variety is this one? It looks kind of bushy like my young DCO's....

Thanks,
BD
 
Barrett's Dad said:
letemgrow - that's a pleasant surprise for sure. I am new to the tree planting gig....what variety is this one? It looks kind of bushy like my young DCO's....

Thanks,
BD
Click to expand...


Its a chinkapin x dwarf chinkapin x swamp white oak cross that was found in Concordia, MO next to the rest area there on I-70. A guy spotted the trees and thought they were an odd looking chinkapin oak and he earned his doctorate studying that tree. I've read/have the scientific paper he wrote up on the tree.
 
savey33 said:
Where does a guy get some of those?
Click to expand...

They are hit and miss. Some years the city sells them at the city pool in Concordia, MO and some years they do not have any.

Last I talked to them, they were going to setup a mailing system to send them out. Wish the MDC State Nursery (who actually grows them) would just sell them in bundles of 25, 50, or whatever since they already bundle them all up for the City and have shipping in place unlike the city of Concordia.

We drove down and picked up 100 the last time they had them and some were already 6' tall. Problem with that is die back since they do not come with all the roots needed to support such a top.
 
letemgrow said:
We drove down and picked up 100 the last time they had them and some were already 6' tall. Problem with that is die back since they do not come with all the roots needed to support such a top.
Click to expand...

Phil I once had a wise man tell me to cut 1/3 to 1/2 of the top off when planting. I have done this with trees with a root ball. It works.
 
I have a question about weed control around my new tree planting. I have a one acre tree
planting that is in an old crp field. Big blue grass was dominant. Last years drought made
it difficult to get a good grass kill because it went dormant very early. Tried roundup with limited success this summer. Is clethodim safe to use around the new trees? I know it is grass specific, but would there be any risk of hurting the trees. Thanks
 
Trimming a tree when you planted is a bad idea. If you think about what you learned in school, the leaves are the food factory for the tree. Food means energy. Energy to recover from transplant shock. The worst the thing you could do to a newly planted tree is not water it. The second worst is trim it.
Water those trees.
 
Last edited:
EatSleepHunt said:
I have a question about weed control around my new tree planting. I have a one acre tree
planting that is in an old crp field. Big blue grass was dominant. Last years drought made
it difficult to get a good grass kill because it went dormant very early. Tried roundup with limited success this summer. Is clethodim safe to use around the new trees? I know it is grass specific, but would there be any risk of hurting the trees. Thanks
Click to expand...

Follow the instruction label and you'll be fine. Problems arise when chemicals aren't used in the manner their instructions specify.
 
iabwhntr said:
Trimming a tree when you planted is a bad idea. If you think about what you learned in school, the leaves are the food factory for the tree. Food means energy. Energy to recover from transplant shock. The worst the thing you could do to a newly planted tree is not water it. The second worst is trim it.
Water those trees.
Click to expand...

Lots of things not learned in school. When you get a transplant you do not get the complete root system. Hence it can't support the complete top. The roots supply the top with water so with a incomplete root system it works to cut about a third of the top off. Less shock and quicker recovery.:drink1:
 
goatman said:
Lots of things not learned in school. When you get a transplant you do not get the complete root system. Hence it can't support the complete top. The roots supply the top with water so with a incomplete root system it works to cut about a third of the top off. Less shock and quicker recovery.:drink1:
Click to expand...

One of the chemicals trees produce is called an auxin. This chemical is produced in the shoot tips of limbs. ONE of its responsibilities is promoting root growth. Conversely, a chemical produced in the root tips is called a cytokenin. This chemical encourages shoot growth. They work together.
When you transplant a tree, you remove the roots and...that's right, the trees ability to produce the chemical to make the shoot tips grow. That's why trees don't begin grow for awhile after transplant. And, if you remove the part of the tree (shoot tips) that is supposed to make the roots grow, your only slowing down the process.

Below are several links from universities all over the country.

http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Transplant%20pruning.pdf

http://www.state.sc.us/forest/urbsurv.htm

http://www.clemson.edu/extfor/urban_tree_care/forlf17.htm

http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/4DMG/Trees/movetree.htm
 
Last edited:
iabwhntr said:
One of the chemicals trees produce is called an auxin. This chemical is produced in the shoot tips of limbs. ONE of its responsibilities is promoting root growth. Conversely, a chemical produced in the root tips is called a cytokenin. This chemical encourages shoot growth. They work together.
When you transplant a tree, you remove the roots and...that's right, the trees ability to produce the chemical to make the shoot tips grow. That's why trees don't begin grow for awhile after transplant. And, if you remove the part of the tree (shoot tips) that is supposed to make the roots grow, your only slowing down the process.

Below are several links from universities all over the country.

http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Transplant%20pruning.pdf

http://www.state.sc.us/forest/urbsurv.htm

http://www.clemson.edu/extfor/urban_tree_care/forlf17.htm

http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/4DMG/Trees/movetree.htm
Click to expand...


I'll continue trimming for good tree structure then instead of balancing the root/shoot ratio since that is okay to do per their recommendations :D

Die back (natural pruning) happens on some transplants and they re-sprout from the base and catch up the ones that did not die back in 2 years time. Not sure how that is possible since there is no chemical from the top to support the roots when it initially dies back???
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom