Buck Hollow Sporting Goods - click or touch to visit their website Midwest Habitat Company

What's my problem?

mudingbuck

mudingbuck

PMA Member
I have a '12 Hoyt carbon Element and I shot it all summer. My broad heads shot the same as my field tips. I had to get new limbs put on it and now I just can't get my broad heads to fly the same. I was shooting the g5 montecs and they were hitting the same hole as my field tips. Now they are 4 inches low at 20 and 8 inches low at 40. I shot the g5 t3s to see if that would help and at 40 yards i just hit the bottom of the target, 10 inches low. What's my problem. I also switched my arrows from Axis 400 to 340s. I shorted the 340s so the weigh 423 grains and the 400 weighed 425. So I don't think thats the problem. HELP!
 
Make sure your cams are in tune and parallel with the string. Most likely this is your problem. You may need to put some twist in your buss cable to get the cam parallel with the string. Lay one of your arrows flat on the cam, if it runs parallel with the cam you are good, if it looks like the arrow and your string are going to cross paths you need to adjust.
 
First thing I would try is going back to the 400s if you have any left and see what they do. Pretty sure that you drastically stiffened up your arrow switching AND shortening it. Also, who tuned your bow before and after the new limbs were put on. I'm not some all knowing bow guru but a bow is a machine and you have to ask yourself whats different now. Could easily be the cam timing, nock point or some other tuning variable. One thing I know for sure is the 340's you are using now are not flexing the same as your old 400s when they come out of the bow.
 
Did the limbs get cranked down as far as the old ones? You may not be shooting the same fps as you were before. A lower draw weight and slower speeds would explain why you're shooting low.
 
Honestly after you switched your limbs, changed your arrow length and spine you might as well be starting over! You cant expect things to be the same when you change so much. You just need to treat it as a new set up. I totally agree with everyone else, make sure your cam alignment is correct. Check to make sure your knock point is square and then also i recommend that you paper tune your bow as well. Once everything is set up correctly you can start sighting in your new arrows and broad heads.
 
Buck Hollow paper tuned it. The only reason for the new limbs was the old limbs finish was coming off. I sighted it in with field tips and then shot the broad heads. The 400 shot the same as the 340s
 
You're problem is its a Hoyt!!!!!

:moon::moon::moon::moon::moon::moon::moon::moon::moon:
:grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin:
:thrwrck::thrwrck::thrwrck:
:drink2::drink2::drink2::drink2::drink2::drink2:
 
THA4 said:
You're problem is its a Hoyt!!!!!
Click to expand...


picture.php


Rah Rhah Rah..... My names Thomas Herbert Allen the 5th and I know all and have done all. Bow down to my skillz and I will show you the way with my trusty 1998 Mathews. :thrwrck:

I seem to remember that Hoyt whipping your a$$ at our 3d shoot/ HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

Love ya Tommy :moon:
 
I loved my Hoyt, loved my mathews, love my PSE. Always hated Thomas.

Take it to boyd. My guess is you arrows are throwing you off. How consisten are you with the g5 as to where they hit? Dont know boyd from adam but would bet $100 he'd have you squared away in 20 minutes.
 
Actually when I shot my old rage practice heads they shot well. The more I read about the t3 I might need the stiffer spider clip. The montecs were low every time and the t3s would shoot low once, right on once, then low again. Might be opening in flight. I guess I will go back to the rages for now
 
Could be as simple as a rest adjustment but once a string is removed, much less limbs, all bets are off and you have to re-tune. Stiffer shafts are less prone to trouble, but it may have thrown you off.

Paper really can only be tuned by the shooter IMO, as each hand grip, release and form is different. Broadheads are where its at and they are telling you something. Move your rest up 1/16" and shoot again, if you BH and FP are same spot, then your done. If still off, could be cam timing which Boyd can fix no problem.

Cam lean can be off at rest, it only matters that they are level when the arrow is released. I lost hair playing with lean, and sometimes a little lean is ok, if your bow tunes well.
 
If you had Boyd tune your bow, then bow mechanics should all be good. And if you paper tuned it with Boyd, all should should be good with the bow. Too many changes at once. Keep shooting and resight your bow. It will come back to you.
And to all those boys that bash Hoyt. Seems to me, that would be an inferiorty complex thing.
 
That's 40, 50, and 60 yards with field tips. So its not that I need to sight it in or a matter of it coming back to me. I didn't have to change anything to shoot spot on with my broad heads before the limb change. So I have to believe there is another problem.

ForumRunner_20121011_123658.jpg
 
I had this same problem a few years ago and the strings had stretched and my axel to axel was out it shot horribly low at all the same yardages you are talking about take back to Boyd and have him look at it
 
I read your initial post again, and honestly, if you just moved your rest up 1/16", and shot a FP and BH together, I bet they are MUCH MUCH closer together. Then you can just re-sight your pins and your done. If the paper was close, thats a starter, but a fixed blade with really show you the problem.

Although it may be subtle, when the arrow is released, it is tip down JUST A BIT. The broadhead goes where its pointed....MUCH MORE than a FP.

Very common problem. Your last bow likely was perfect in regards to this alignment, not now it seems.
 
When you load an arrow in your rest does it look 90 degrees to the string or is it aiming downhill. Sounds like an elevation adjustment with your rest until fp and broadheads are shooting together would cure the problem. Make very, very small elevation adj. and see if they start coming together. They don't have to be in the bullseye just hitting together and then move your sight accordingly.

Another thing you can check is cam timing just by drawing and seeing if both cams come in contact with stops at the same time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom